Mannar, Sri Lanka: The Island I Almost Skipped

BY  Sibashree Sep 29, 2026

Lankathilaka Viharaya welcomed me with two towering walls on both sides of the path leading to the iconic Buddha statue.   This clay-brick statue of Buddha has been lying headless for centuries now. It could be wear and tear or vandalism, leaving such a magnificent work of art destroyed.   Luckily. I reached Lankathilaka Viharaya on a weekday morning, and it was before the tourist buses arrived.  So, I enjoyed the calm ambiance of the image house and the other surrounding ruins in the complex.   On the way to the image house, I noticed many ruins, including stupas and small pillars, which looked like they had been cut off at the top.   Nevertheless, as I reached the image house, the main attraction of the site, this is what I saw.   Lankathilaka Viharaya At A Glance  Detail Fact Location Alahana Pirivena, Polonnaruwa ancient city, south of Kiri Vehera Builder King Parakramabahu I (1153–1186) Restored Under King Vijayabahu IV (inscription, 1270–1272) Type Gedige (vaulted) brick image house. It used to have five storeys. Height About 17 Meters The tallest entrance pillar is 17.7 Meters.  Wall thickness About 4 Meters Headless Buddha statue Made of clay bricks The original height of the statue was around 12.5 meters.   Time needed 30 to 45 minutes.  My Walk Into The Nave Lankathilaka is in the northern monastic zone of Polonnaruwa.  So, this time I reached it by bicycle from the main ticket office and museum. The rental charge was LKR 400 for a day.   The Approach And The Twin Pillars  The brick pillars framing the entrance were enormous. The tallest pillar still has a height of around 17.7 meters.   The carvings on the pillars were intricate. However, I could not decipher what those figures were.   Inside The Headless Buddha’s Chamber  Barefoot on warm stone, I walked a narrow aisle between walls about 4 meters thick, and the standing Buddha appeared at the far end, cut off above the shoulders.   The chamber does not have a roof. So, daylight completely bathes the statue and the chamber.   Also, the image house has two stairways that lead to the entrance.   Each step is around 4 inches in width and 1 foot in height. Furthermore, the steps run in an ascending order.   So, you have to walk sideways on the steps, avoiding turning your back on the standing Buddha statue. Here, your back will stay against the wall.   The Unique Architectural Style And Elements  The image house has a Geḍi-ge architectural style, in which a semi-spherical or arched-shaped vaulted roof is the signature.   Today, you cannot see the roof. However, the remains speak for the sophistication of the architecture.   Furthermore, I saw the depiction of a Nagini on the balustrade here.   Usually, we see a Naag, or male serpent, with guard stones and a moonstone at any temple entrance.   So, the Nagini structure here is rare.   Here, it is carved on the inner face of the balustrade near the entrance. It has equal hoods as the male counterpart carved on the opposite side.   I am not sure about the interpretations. However, apparently, it looked like the equal role and power of the male and female serpents as guardians of the place.   Light, Sound And Stillness  I was standing halfway down the aisle.   Standing there, I could only listen to my footsteps and distant birdsong. The walls were so thick that they muffled the noise of the outside world.   This silence is what makes the place feel so devotional, even when the scorching rays of the sun reach the chamber and statue without any shelter.   I stayed there for 1 hour, and along with the headless Buddha statue, the Nagini carvings stayed with me.   I come from a land where the divine feminine and the divine masculine are one, and they are incomplete without each other.   Did the Nagini carving opposite the Naag carving here also indicate the same? I am not sure, but I had this thought even after leaving Lankathilaka Viharaya.   History: Why This Image House Exists Polonnaruwa was a royal capital from the 11th to 13th centuries.  Also, King Parakramabahu I turned it into a city of monasteries, reservoirs, and shrines.  Parakramabahu I And The Alahana Pirivena  Lankathilaka was under the Alahana Pirivena monastery.  Also, it is the largest image house of ancient Sri Lanka.   Furthermore, it is one of three gedige shrines at Polonnaruwa, alongside Thuparama and Tivanka.  The Vijayabahu IV Restoration  An inscription records that Vijayabahu IV renovated it about a century later.   These repairs changed a lot of the original architecture of the image house.   Also, if you visit the National Museum in Colombo today, you will find dwarf-like stucco heads from Tivanka and Lankatilaka.  From Abandoned Capital To World Heritage  By the early 14th century, Polonnaruwa had been abandoned, and the jungle slowly covered its monuments until 19th-century excavations began.   UNESCO listed the city in 1982.   Walking the nave today, I found it hard to believe this shell sat under vegetation for centuries.  How Lankathilaka Compares With Polonnaruwa’s Other Gedige Shrines Polonnaruwa has three vaulted image houses, and I visited all three in one day.   Seeing them back to back showed me what makes Lankathilaka special with its sheer scale.  Shrine What stands out Lankathilaka Walls about 17 meters high Colossal headless standing Buddha Thuparama Gedige Best-preserved early brick-and-stone temple, with a barrel-vaulted roof. Tivanka Image House Largest thrice-bent Buddha image, with surviving Jataka murals.  If you only have time for one, I would choose Lankathilaka for drama and Tivanka for painted detail.  Planning Your Visit  Lankathilaka needs no separate ticket as the Polonnaruwa ancient city ticket covers all sites.  Tickets And Timings  Item Detail Foreign adult ticket US$25 Site hours 7 am–6 pm daily CCF ticket counters 7 AM to 5 PM Online tickets Valid for 90 days Guide Charges LKR 2500-3000 for three to four hours.   Pair It With Kiri Vehera And Gal Vihara  Time Stop Notes 7:30 AM Lankathilaka About 40 minutes 8:20 AM Kiri Vehera About 30 minutes 9:00 AM Gal Vihara About 45 minutes  Is Lankathilaka Worth Visiting?  Yes, Lankathilaka Viharaya is worth visiting.  It is compact, and a ticket to this Vihara is included in the ancient city ticket.   Furthermore, for photographers, it is a favorite spot because of the scale it offers. Bring a wide-angle lens or use the ultra-wide mode of your phone to capture the stupa perfectly.   Also, if you are facing a shortage of time, visit Lankathilaka Viharaya on a combined trip to Gal Vihara. 

BY  Sibashree Aug 27, 2026

Most waterfalls in Sri Lanka announce themselves with a roar from half a kilometer away. However, Bambarakanda Falls was different.   It has a thin water flow, and as it drops far, I could only hear the sound of the waterfall when I was standing directly under it.   However, it is the tallest in the country, and I could not find the top even after craning my neck all the way back.   The Story Behind The Name Of The Bambarakanda Falls The name comes from Bambara. In the Sinhalese language, Bambara means wasps.  The rock face around the falls was once a prominent colony of wasps.   However, before the waterfall became known as Bambarakanda,  it was called Bambarakele Falls and Dultota Falls.   What struck me more than the etymology was how quiet the setting is compared to its size and fame.  This is not a waterfall with restaurants and gift shops crowding the base, just pine forest, a rough access road, and the sound of falling water.  Where Is Bambarakanda Falls? Bambarakanda Falls is close to the small town of Kalupahana in the Badulla District. It is also near the boundary of the Horton Plains National Park.   Kuda Oya, a modest stream, is the source of this waterfall.   However, it transforms into the most dramatic tributary the moment it reaches the cliff edge above Kalupahana and drops in a single, thin, horsetail plunge.   Furthermore, this waterfall is around 200 km away from Colombo. The distance between Bambarakanda Waterfall and Belihuloya is just 18 km.   So, Bambarakanda Falls easily fits into the itinerary if you are in the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka or on the Ella–Haputale–Horton Plains corridor.   How To Reach Bambarakanda Falls? Bambarakanda is easily accessible from Colombo by road and train. Here are the details.   From Colombo By Road  The most common route is Colombo to Ratnapura to Belihuloya to Kalupahana, following the A4 highway toward Beragala.   At Kalupahana Junction, a signposted turn-off leads onto a narrower road that runs for roughly 5 km through Weerakoongama's pine and tea plantations before reaching the parking area.   The final stretch is rough enough in places that not every car will manage it comfortably.  So a tuk-tuk from the junction is a popular last-mile option if you're not driving a higher-clearance vehicle.  By Train And Bus  If you're relying on public transport, the nearest useful rail stop is Ohiya.  From Ohiya, you will still need a taxi or tuk-tuk to cover the remaining distance.   Buses running the Colombo–Badulla A4 route will drop you at Kalupahana Junction, where three-wheelers wait to ferry visitors up the access road for a small fixed fare.  The Trek To The Base  From the parking area, I had to take a flight of steps to reach the base of the waterfall. The flight took around 10-15 minutes.   It was an easy trek as I passed through a pine forest. Also, compared to places such as Sinharaja, the leeches were way fewer in number throughout the route.   However, with the pine needles scattered on the ground, it was a bit slippery. So, you need to wear proper walking or trekking shoes.   As I reached the base of the waterfall, I found a shallow pool, perfect for wading. Also, if you want to remain dry and want to appreciate the scale of the waterfall, you can watch the waterfall from the concrete viewing platform.   Climbing To The Top: The Devil's Staircase  If you want more adventure, you can take the steep trail nicknamed the Devil's Staircase, winding up the mountainside to the crest of the falls.  Remember that this stretch, leading to the top, is a proper hiking route. It is not like strolling anyway!  The elevation here is several hundred meters through pine and mixed forest. So, even if the weather is a little bad, you must not attempt this.   The reward at the top is a small natural infinity pool and a miniature waterfall feeding into the main drop, along with sweeping views down the valley toward the eastern plains.   A short trek from the base also leads to Lanka Ella, a smaller waterfall nearby whose shape is sometimes said to resemble the outline of Sri Lanka itself.  What Is The Best Time To Visit The Bambarakanda Falls? Honestly, the guides on the best time to visit Bambarakanda Falls are mostly confusing.   Some sources say that March to May is the ideal time for a visit to this waterfall. Indeed, going for a trek is safest in this season, as the flow is modest and the trails are less slippery.   However, if you want to see the most dramatic version of the waterfall, May to September is the ideal window.   I am someone who is always in for the later window. Visiting shortly after rain gave me a fuller view of the fall, and it was the most photogenic.   A dry spell, on the other hand, makes the waterfall look thinner.   What Are The Attractions Near Bambarakanda Waterfalls? Some of the best-known sights of the Sri Lankan Central Highlands are very close to Bambarakanda Waterfalls.  Horton Plains National Park and World's End are a scenic drive away. Haputale, with its cooler climate, tea estates, and views toward the southern coast on a clear day.  Haputale further makes a good overnight base. Also, if you are continuing along the A4, Belihuloya offers river-adjacent guesthouses and a much gentler pace than the falls themselves.  Practical Travel Tips  If you are planning to capture the beauty of the waterfall, you should pack wide-angle lenses.   The waterfall is so tall that, considering how close you stand, fitting the entire cascade into one frame from the base is genuinely difficult.  Furthermore, if you are driving yourself to the waterfall, budget extra time for the access road. This is narrow, occasionally rutted, and best driven slowly regardless of your vehicle.  A Few Things I Wish I Had Known  It was a mistake on my part to underestimate the remoteness of the final stretch of the road.  The stretch was just a few kilometers off the main A4 Highway. Still, once I quickly reached the pine forest, there was no phone signal for the majority of the route leading to the base.   Furthermore, you will have to bring cash, as digital payments or cards are not accepted at the entrance or along the trail.  Also, barring the odd roadside stall near the junction, you will not find much food.   Moreover, if you are on the Devil's Staircase climb to the crest, go early in the day. Clouds tend to roll in by early afternoon and can turn a rewarding view into a very damp anticlimax.  Where To Stay Near Bambarakanda Falls  You will not find real accommodation facilities right at the falls.   As convenient options, you can base yourself in Haputale or Belihuloya. You can reach both locations within 30-40 minutes by car from Bambarakanda.   Haputale sits higher up and cooler, with a scattering of small guesthouses and a couple of well-regarded boutique stays that make a good stop if you are also planning to see World's End at Horton Plains the next morning.   Belihuloya, down in the valley, has a handful of riverside guesthouses that suit travelers who'd rather relax by moving water than climb toward it after a long day on the road.   Either option works as a base for a half-day dedicated to Bambarakanda, with enough flexibility to add Horton Plains or a tea-estate walk without much extra driving.

BY  Sibashree Sep 8, 2026

My driver, Dasun, stopped the jeep beside a villu, one of the signature natural lakes of Wilpattu. Our jeep had been idling by villu for around 20 minutes. Then, suddenly, our tracker killed the chatter and pointed.  I spotted a leopard moving along the far treeline. His body language was unbothered, and it seemed that he was in no rush at all.  Also, there were no jeeps fighting to capture the spot for taking a photo. The absence of radio crackling and other trackers converging on the spot further added to the experience.  Overall, the moments here told me everything about why Wilpattu is quietly considered Sri Lanka's most serious leopard park, even though Yala National Park gets most of the international attention. Furthermore, Wilpattu is the largest in Sri Lanka, and it feels like it.  Also, I noticed a clear difference between Yala and Wilpattu. Yala’s blocks can feel congested because of the safari traffic in peak season.  However, the sheer scale of Wilpattu and its remoteness from the southern tourist circuit keeps visitor density low even when sightings are excellent.  Wilpattu National Park At A Glance Wilpattu is in the North Western and North Central Provinces of Sri Lanka.  It straddles the boundary near Puttalam and Anuradhapura districts.  The villu system defines this national park. The villu system has a network of roughly 60 natural, sand-rimmed lakes scattered through dense scrub and forest. Also, it is the villu system from which the park gets its name. The meaning of Wilpattu is “The Land of Lakes” in English.  Moreover, thanks to the water network, the park has many predictable spots for animal concentration.  So, despite the massive scale, the chances of spotting wildlife here are excellent.  DetailInformationLocationNorth Western and North Central Provinces, near Puttalam and AnuradhapuraAreaApprox. 1,317 Square KilometersIt is Sri Lanka's Largest National ParkKey FeatureAround 60 Natural "Villu" Lakes Set in Dense Dry-Zone ForestSignature WildlifeSri Lankan LeopardSloth BearElephantSpotted DeerMugger CrocodileNearest CityAnuradhapura: Approximately 30 KmPuttalam: Approximately 40 KmRecommended Visiting MonthsFebruary to October How To Reach Wilpattu National Park? You can approach Wilpattu from the Cultural Triangle via Anuradhapura. Also, you can take the northwestern coastal route via Puttalam and Kalpitiya. Both these routes are straightforward and sealed.  However, the final stretch to the main Hunuwilagama entrance narrows into a quieter rural drive. FromApproximate  DistanceApproximate Drive TimeAnuradhapura30 Km45 MinutesPuttalam40 Km1 HourKalpitiya75 Km1.5–2 HoursColombo180 Km3.5–4 HoursNegombo150 Km3 Hours Again, there is a second and less-used entrance on the Mannar side of the park.  It is for those travelling the north-south coastal route, though most safari operators and lodges are clustered around the main Hunuwilagama gate near Anuradhapura. Inside The Park: My Safari Experience I planned a full-day safari in Wilpattu National Park, and it was from 6 AM to around 4 PM.  A park safari is the best way to see Wilpattu properly. A half-day barely gets you past the entrance loop before you have to turn back. The Villus: Wilpattu's Signature Lakes The villus make the ecology of Wilpattu different than any other national park in Sri Lanka.  These are not man-made reservoirs. These are natural rain-fed lakes ringed with pale sand, and the jeep tracks are laid out to string several of them together. Also, every meaningful sighting I had came from parking quietly at a villu edge and waiting rather than driving in search of animals.  Crocodiles were basking at the waterline, and elephants were drinking water. Finally, the leopard appeared along the treeline.  Leopards And The Chance Of A Sighting Wilpattu is often described by naturalists as having a leopard density comparable to Yala's famous Block 1, without anywhere near the crowd.  Sightings are not guaranteed on any single visit, and practically no park can promise that. However, the odds, combined with the calmer viewing experience when a leopard does appear, are a big part of why serious wildlife photographers increasingly prefer Wilpattu over Yala in peak season. Elephants, Sloth Bears, And Birdlife As I have mentioned, elephants are frequent around the villus and the drier months are the best time to spot them.  Also, the park has around 30 recorded mammal species, including sloth bear, water buffalo, sambar, and mongoose. Furthermore, it has a strong birdlife presence. I could spot painted storks and several kingfisher species around the lake edges.  Peacocks and hornbills are more common sightings among birds in this park.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Wilpattu National Park? You can take part in safaris year-round.  However, the park is ideal between February and October. These months are ideal for avoiding the heavier northeast monsoon rains. Rain makes interior tracks difficult and reduces visibility.  Also, in a day, early morning and late afternoon remain the most productive windows for activity, as the midday heat pushes most animals into cover. Entrance Fees And Safari Costs Wilpattu is among Sri Lanka's higher-tier national parks for entrance pricing. The entry fee is less than Yala National Park. However, it is above smaller Category 2 parks.  Recent traveller reports and 2026 pricing guides put the all-in foreign adult entrance cost, including entry, service charge, vehicle fee, and VAT. It is roughly USD 29–30 per person, with jeep hire priced separately and negotiated locally. Fee ComponentApproximate Cost (Foreign Adult)Park EntranceServiceVehicleVATUSD 29.50 per AdultUSD 17.70 Per Child (6 to 12 Years)Guide/Tracker Fee$7 to $10It is Often Bundled into the Jeep PackageHalf-Day Jeep HireApproximately LKR 12,500 (6 AM to 10:30 AM)Full-Day Jeep HireApproximately LKR 25,000 (6 AM to 6 PM) A Full-Day Wilpattu Itinerary Given the park's size, a full day is genuinely worth the early start. Here is roughly how my day broke down. TimeActivity5:30 AMDepart lodge and arrive at Hunuwilagama entrance.6:00–9:00 AMMorning safari loop through the northern villus. 9:00–9:30 AMBreakfast break at a designated stop inside the park.9:30 AM to 12:30 PMContinue tracking toward the larger central villus.12:30 PM to 1:30 PMMidday rest as animal activity drops with the heat.1:30 PM to 4:00 PMAfternoon loop, best window for leopard and elephant activity. Where To Stay Near Wilpattu? You can choose from simple guesthouses in Anuradhapura, which put you within easy reach of both Wilpattu and the ancient city's ruins, to dedicated eco-lodges and tented camps right on the park's buffer zone near Hunuwilagama.  Staying inside or immediately adjacent to the buffer zone shaves a meaningful amount off your pre-dawn drive time, which matters if you want to be at the gate for the 6 am opening. The guesthouses in Wilpattu cost around LKR 3500 per night, and if you are staying in the ecolodges around the buffer zone, the charges will be approximately LKR 7500.  Tips From My Visit A few things I would tell anyone planning a Wilpattu trip. Book the full day rather than a half-day if your schedule allows, since the best villus are further from the entrance. Pack your own food and water, as very little is available once you are inside. Also, pay for the jeep and entrance in Sri Lankan rupees only, since foreign currency isn't accepted at the gate. Places To Visit Near The Wilpattu National Park  Wilpattu's location makes it an easy pairing with the cultural triangle. Anuradhapura's ancient stupas and monasteries are barely half an hour away, and it is a natural stop for anyone routing between the north and the northwestern coast.  Travelers continuing toward the coast often carry on to Kalpitiya for kitesurfing and dolphin watching, or further north toward Mannar and Vavuniya. Again, Chilaw, with its lagoon and temple circuit, also makes a workable stop if you're driving down from Wilpattu toward Colombo.