Mannar, Sri Lanka: The Island I Almost Skipped

BY  Sibashree Sep 7, 2026

I visited the Gal Oya National Park in 2022, and after a few months of being back in my country, I got a call from my friend in Sri Lanka.  It was December, and he shared the news published on the Daily Mirror Online, which mentioned the threats of illegal mining to the flora and fauna of the national park.  I felt numb, as this was not the Gal Oya National Park I visited. Even if Sri Lanka has icons such as the Yala National Park, for me Gal Oya offered the most remarkable encounters with elephants.  For the first time, I did a safari from a boat, drifting quietly across open water while a herd of elephants waded between islands ahead of us. There was no engine noise to spook them, no queue of vehicles, just the reservoir, the herd, and the sound of water. It felt more like a secret that Sri Lanka preserves so dearly, not a national park.  Gal Oya National Park At A Glance DetailInformationLocationAmpara District, Eastern Province, Sri LankaEstablished1954AreaApproximately 25,900 HectaresCentrepieceSenanayake Samudraya, the Largest Reservoir in Sri LankaKnown forBoat Safaris and Elephants Swimming between IslandsWildlife32 Recorded Mammal Species, including Elephants, Leopards, and Sloth Bears150+ Bird SpeciesBest time to visitDry Season, Roughly May to SeptemberDistance from ColomboAround 300 KM,  Roughly 6 Hours by Road A Reservoir-Built Park With A History Tied To Irrigation The history of the Gal Oya National Park goes back to 1954. It was built to protect the Senanayake Samudraya. This newly constructed reservoir, the largest in Sri Lanka, was part of a major post-independence irrigation scheme in the dry zone of Sri Lanka.  The scale of the reservoir made my boat ride in the park all the more fascinating. It is just open water with forests around.  So, the jeeps on the dusty tracks are replaced by the boats on the serene water.  The landscape around the reservoir was more varied than I expected from a dry-zone park. Forested Hills! Savannah Grassland! Also, there were rocky outcrops that locals call turtleback formations.  Moreover, low grasslands all sit within the park's boundaries, alongside historical sites like the Digha Vapi Dagoba and the Henebedde cave. Wildlife And The Swimming Elephants The most fascinating experience in Gal Oya was watching wild elephants swimming between the reservoir’s islands.  They were moving in search of fresh grazing as water levels dropped in the dry season.  Beyond elephants, the park has around 32 mammal species, including: Leopards Sloth Bears Grey Langurs Endemic Toque Macaque. Also, the park, though not as fascinating as Bundala, has more than 150 species of birds. I could spot the following ones. Painted Storks Ospreys Endemics like the red-faced Malkoha and Sri Lanka spurfowl. I could also spot crocodiles and water monitors along the reservoir's edges. How To Reach Gal Oya National Park? You can take a drive from Colombo to reach Gal Oya National Park via Ampara. The distance is around 300 km, and the journey takes around 6 hours by road.  However, staying in Ampara Town as the base or finding a lodge close to the park’s boat safari jetty is a more reasonable move.  Also, Gal Oya National Park is a natural inland detour from the east-coast surf town, Arugam Bay, roughly 2 to 2.5 hours away. Again, if you are traveling from Kandy, it is 4-5 hours by road via Mahiyangana. So, Gal Oya is a workable stop on a route heading toward the east coast. Gal Oya Entrance And Boat Safari Costs (2026) On top of the park entrance fee, the boat safari itself is typically arranged and priced separately, usually through your lodge or a licensed operator. Remember that access to the reservoir's boats isn't managed the same way jeep permits are at other parks. Also, the boat safari costs around LKR 6000 to LKR 8000.  CategoryApproximate Cost (2026)Foreign Adult (12+)USD 12Foreign Child (6–12 Years)USD 6Foreign Children under 6 Years FreeSAARC NationalsUSD 10 for AdultsUSD 5 for Children between 6 and 12 YearsFree for Children below 6 YearsLocals Adults: LKR 60Children from 6 to 12 Years: LKR 30Children below 6 Years: FreeStudents: LKR 20Boat SafariLKR 6000-8000 A One-Day Gal Oya Itinerary A day at Gal Oya has a different rhythm from most Sri Lankan national parks because here the safari is on a boat and not a jeep.  Here is a structure that works well if you're based near Ampara or the park's eastern lodges. TimeActivity5:30 - 6:30 AMEarly transfer to the boat jetty on Senanayake Samudraya6:30 - 9:30 AMMorning boat safari.It is the best window for elephant sightings near the shoreline. 9:30 - 10:30 AMReturn to lodge for breakfast.10:30 AM - 12:30 PMOptional short trek or visit to the Henebedde cave/Digha Vapi Dagoba area.12:30 - 2:30 PMLunch and rest during the hottest part of the day.4:00 - 6:30 PMEvening boat safari for a second wildlife window and sunset over the reservoir. What Are The Practical Tips For Visiting The Gal Oya National Park?  Boats and slots are more limited than jeep availability at bigger parks. Bring a hat, sunscreen, and a light waterproof layer. Pack a zoom lens or good binoculars as elephant sightings are often across open water rather than at close range on a jeep track. Stay two nights if you can, so you get both a morning and an evening boat safari rather than just one. Combine with Arugam Bay or Ampara for a fuller east-coast itinerary. What Is The Best Time To Visit Gal Oya National Park? May to September, or the dry season, is the best time to visit Gal Oya National Park.  In the dry season, the water level of the reservoir drops. So, all the animals, especially the elephants, concentrate near the remaining islands and water.  Thus, the sight of swimming elephants is more common in this national park than anywhere else in Sri Lanka.  This season is also ideal for birdwatching in Sri Lanka, as migratory and resident species settle around the shrinking waterline.

BY  Sibashree Jul 22, 2026

My trip to Sri Lanka crossed many dramatic turns, especially in the Northern part of the country.  With Vavuniya feeling like a crossroads rather than a stopover and Mannar being a high point where the wind never stops, the next stop was Mullaitivu.  Mullaitivu was a name that I had only read about in the news archives.  Mullaitivu is even in the news today as the people of Keppapilavu have been protesting for days now for the return of their ancestral lands.  Thurairasa Ravikaran and Sivagnanam Shritharan, two Tamil parliamentarians, have shown their support and solidarity to this protest.  Nevertheless, while Trincomalee beaches and the rich culture of Jaffna dominate the conversations about Northern Sri Lanka, Mullaitivu surfaced as a place talking about the past.  In this article, I will talk about my two days in Mullaitivu, from the drive in to the lagoon that ended a war, and why I think this coastline deserves more than a passing mention on a map. Why Mullaitivu Almost Stayed Off My List The day I spent at Vavuniya, the guesthouse caretaker there, a soft-spoken man named Selvam, was the one who first brought up Mullaitivu. About Mullaitivu, he mentioned,  “The beaches were empty, the lagoon was calm, and the town had not yet learned how to perform for tourists.” This stirred me, as most travel forums I had checked mentioned Mullaitivu as a former war zone with a nice coastline and not much infrastructure. While this is not false, this is only a fragmented picture of Mullaitivu. How I Reached Mullaitivu From Vavuniya, I took A34 to reach Mullaitivu. It was a distance of around 54 kilometers, and I reached within an hour and a half.  The road narrowed past Puthukkudiyiruppu, cutting through scrubland, paddy fields, and the occasional stretch of forest before the land flattens out toward the coast. How Mullaitivu Felt At First Sight?  Mullaitivu was once a small fishing harbor.  It was a small fishing harbor and a stop for sailing vessels moving goods between Colombo and Jaffna in the early twentieth century.  Today, it also remains a fishing town, unbothered and unhurried by outsiders.  As I entered the town, my driver, Ravi, pointed out the old lighthouse. It was built in 1896, and it has lost its original iron frame.  So, when you visit the lighthouse today, you can only find a faded signboard.  Nevertheless, I spent my first evening walking along Mullaitivu Beach.  Fishing boats had gathered there, forming neat rows, and the nets were drying on the sand.  Also, it was most delightful to find children playing cricket on the sand with a tennis ball.  Being from the country where cricket is a religion, I joined them. We bonded big time talking over big names such as Kumar Sangakkara and Kusal Mendis.  A few meters away from them, an elderly woman was mending a fishing net.  It felt like a scene from a Sanjeewa Pushpakumara movie. Like his films, Flying Fish and The Venishing, it was like a scene depicting the raw portrayal of survival.  What Are The Places To Visit In Mullaitivu?  I was not prepared for the amount of Civil War history Mullaitivu offered me.  Also, the birds and the sanctuary where the beach and lagoon meet allowed me to unwind with so many things going on in my head about life during and after the Civil War in Sri Lanka.  Nanthikadal Lagoon: Where The War Ended At a glance, the Nanthikadal Lagoon looks like a shallow, sand-fringed body of water. It is on the northeastern edge of the district. Small rivers feed it, and it finally opens into the Indian Ocean.  When I reached the lagoon, I found some egrets standing motionless in the shallows. Then, a kingfisher dropped into the water and came up empty. Ravi then took me to an old man, a local school teacher called Rajan. He narrated the entire story of the Nanthikadal Lagoon to me.  What Happened At Nanthikadal Lagoon  The 26-year Civil War of Sri Lanka ended at Nanthikadal Lagoon in May 2009.  Here, the government forces cornered the last LTTE fighters. The group's leader, Velupillai Prabhakaran, was also killed.  In the weeks before that, civilians had been pushed into a shrinking strip of land along this same lagoon. They were between the fighting lines. In a report published on 17th January 2009, The Guardian wrote,  “International concern is intensifying over the fate of around 350,000 civilians trapped in a rapidly shrinking rebel-controlled pocket of land in Sri Lanka's north east, as the military steps up its campaign to end the civil war by crushing the Tamil Tiger forces. There is no specific count of the number of human casualties in these final months. A 2011 UN Panel of Experts report stated that credible sources estimated as many as 40,000 civilian deaths. Another report, published by The Times (UK) on 29th May 2009 based on confidential UN documents the paper obtained, reported that civilian deaths in the no-fire zone rose sharply from late April. The deaths averaged around 1,000 killed per day until May 19, 2009. Thus, it had put the total civilian death toll at over 20,000. (Source: Al Jazeera).  The Sri Lankan Government has shown a much lower figure.   However, in the UN Rights Council: Act on Sri Lanka Report published on 13th September 2011, Brad Adams, the Asia director at Human Rights Watch, mentioned,  “When a UN Panel of Experts report concludes up to 40,000 civilians died amid war crimes, the Human Rights Council should feel compelled to act. The council should order a full international investigation – anything less would be a shameful abdication of responsibility.” How Nanthikadal Lagoon Looks Back At Those Days Every Year Tamil families gather at Mullivaikkal, close to the lagoon, on 19th May every year to remember relatives lost in the final days.  They light lamps and plant coconut saplings in their memory.  Standing at the water's edge, with fishermen casting nets a short distance away, I found it hard to reconcile the stillness in front of me with what this ground had witnessed. The Victory Monument, The Museum, And The Submarines The Puthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument was on the Paranthan-Mullaitivu road, which was a short drive from the lagoon.  It was unveiled in 2019, and it depicts a soldier carrying the national flag.  Furthermore, the surrounding pond and lilies represent the ocean around the island and the nation itself.  An adjoining war museum displays weapons, vehicles, and vessels used during the conflict's final phase. Entry to the museum was free, and it remains open from 8 AM to 5 PM.  Also nearby, there were rusted hulls, and it was the site where the government troops discovered an abandoned Sea Tiger boatyard in 2009.  It is where the LTTE's naval wing used to build improvised submarines and semi-submersible craft.  I want to be honest about something here. This is a site that different communities in Sri Lanka read very differently, and I do not think a two-day visit qualifies anyone to settle that.  What I can say is that visiting both the lagoon and the monument on the same day gave me a fuller, more uncomfortable picture than either would have alone. The Kokkilai Lagoon:  Where The Coastline Turns Peaceful Again On the second afternoon, I drove out to Kokkilai Lagoon.  It was a wetland sanctuary around 25 kilometers southeast of town.  It has been a protected bird sanctuary since 1951, and I could spot pelicans, herons, and occasional flamingos moving along the shallows.  The crowd of birdwatchers was small, and the overall ambiance was quiet.  Chundikulam Further along the coast, Chundikulam allowed me to relax. It was a sanctuary with no visitors.  I quietly cherished the view of the beach and lagoon blurring into one uninterrupted stretch of sand and water. Coming back from Chundikulam, I had some spicy crab curry and rice at a roadside stall. It was similar to what I had in Jaffna, but it tasted even better.  Ravi said, “It was the only reason to end the day here.”  My Two Days In Mullaitivu: The Itinerary  Day TimeActivities/Places to VisitDay 1MorningDrive from Vavuniya via the A34MiddayCheck-in and Walk through Mullaitivu TownAfternoonNanthikadal Lagoon and the CausewayEveningMullaitivu Beach at SunsetDay 2MorningPuthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument and War MuseumMiddaySea Tiger Submarine YardAfternoonKokkilai Lagoon BirdwatchingEveningChundikulam Coastline and Seafood Dinner Mullaitivu: A Quiet Place That Asks You To Listen  Away from the grandeur of Kandy and Colombo, Mullaitivu is a place that simply exists. It tells the stories of human survival, and it is still recovering and fishing despite the stains and the lives lost in the Civil War.  So, if you are already tracing the north of Sri Lanka through Vavuniya, Kilinochchi, or Mannar, I would not leave Mullaitivu off the route.  Just go with the understanding that this is not a beach add-on. It is a place that holds two very different stories at once, and it does not owe you a tidy conclusion to either.

BY  Sibashree Jul 9, 2026

Kurunegala has recently been in the news due to infrastructure development. The cabinet meeting approved the construction of stage 1 of phase 4 of the Central Expressway Project.  It will connect Kurunegala and Dambulla, which is famous for the iconic Dambulla Royal Cave Temple.  The Road Development Authority (RDA) has further confirmed that the extension work will start in November 2026.  However, Kurunegala has always been a melting pot for the cultural hub of Kandy, Puttalam, Negombo, and the country’s capital, Colombo.  Also, as the capital of the northwestern province, it holds massive strategic and political importance.  Where Is Kurunegala?  Kurunegala is in the northwestern interior of Sri Lanka.  As the capital of the Kurunegala District and the North-Western Province, it also functions as a major transportation hub.  Furthermore, it is around 94 kilometers northeast of the country’s capital, Colombo. In addition, the distance between Kandy and Kurunegala is just 42 km.  How To Reach Kurunegala? While traveling from Colombo, Kandy is the gateway to reach Kurunegala. I took a bus from the Kandy Goods Shed Bus Stand.  Buses run regularly from Kandy to Kurunegala, or route 602, and the journey via Katugastota-Kurunegala Road (A10) takes around 1.5 to 2 hours.  I traveled in a regular bus, and the ticket price was LKR 200. Semi-luxury, luxury, and super-luxury bus options are also available on this route, and the ticket prices will be between LKR 350 and LKR 600.  Why Is Kurunegala Famous? Ancient Royal History! Majestic Geology!  An Agricultural Powerhouse!  These are the three main reasons behind Kurunegala’s prominent position in the tourism landscape of Sri Lanka.  The Capital Of Ancient Kingdoms From the late 13th to the early 14th century, Kurunegala was the royal Capital of Sri Lanka.  It was known as Hasthishaila-pura earlier. Under the rule of kings like Buwanekabahu II and Parakramabahu IV, it safeguarded the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha. Also, it has the Yapahuwa rock fortress. Other historic ruins and citadels include the silver cave temple of Ridi Viharaya and the ancient ruins of Panduwasnuwara.  The City Of Animal Rocks A ring of eight massive ancient granite outcrops encircles Kurunegala. These granite outcrops, suddenly rising from the plains, look surreal.  Furthermore, my guide told me a fascinating folklore about these outcrops.  “Kurunegala once faced a severe drought. Then, a witch turned water-guzzling animals into stone. In fact, some of these rocks are famously named after the animals their silhouettes resemble.” For example, Athugala looks like an elephant, Ibbagala looks like the back of a tortoise, and Andagala resembles an eel.  The Heart Of The Coconut Triangle Kurunegala, like Kalutara, is famous for rubber estates. It also has endless coconut plantations.  In fact, it is located inside the “Coconut Triangle" of Sri Lanka. So, overall, it is a prominent commercial hub for agricultural production.  Moreover, it is the cradle of Selyn, Sri Lanka’s only fair-trade-guaranteed handloom company. So, it is also a critical center for preserving the island's traditional textile heritage. What Are The Places To Visit In Kurunegala?  Kurunegala offers the ultimate off-the-beaten-path experience in Sri Lanka.  For me, the most fascinating places to visit here are the ancient rocks and the spiritual landmarks.  While these connect you to history, the scenic waterways and modern sanctuaries allow you to unwind and soak in the local vibe.  1. Athugala Rock Temple  Athugala dominates the skyline of Kurunegala.  This outcrop has a height of 325 meters, and it gets its name from its uncanny resemblance to a giant, crouching elephant Atha means elephant and Gala means rock. Furthermore, once I reached the summit, I found a magnificent Buddha statue of 88 feet in height.  You can take a car ride to reach the summit. However, I preferred a trek through the stone steps.  Fortunately, I reached the summit at sunset. So, the experience was magical.  2. Ridi Vihariya Or The Silver Temple  Ridi Viharaya connects us to the 2nd century BCE. This ancient cave temple is around 20 kilometers away from the main town in Rideegama.  King Dutugemunu discovered a rich vein of silver ore here. Then he used the silver ore to finance the construction of the famous Ruwanweli Maha Seya in Anuradhapura. Furthermore, Ridi Vihariya is hidden by rocky cliffs and forest cover. Also, it is home to a magnificent reclining Buddha statue, Kandyan-era frescoes, and ivory carvings.  3. Yapahuwa Rock Fortress The Yapahuwa Rock Fortress is often compared to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress.  Yapahuwa was the capital of Sri Lanka under King Bhuvanekabahu I in the late 13th century.  Furthermore, the temple is constructed against a sheer, 200-meter-high granite rock that juts dramatically out of the surrounding jungle. Moreover, it has a highly ornamental staircase. Stone lions and intricate carvings adorn the path.  What is more fascinating than these steps, which once led to the royal palace and the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic? 4. Panduwasnuwara Ancient City Panduwasnuwara, which served as a temporary capital in the 12th century, is a dramatic ruin site. It has a well-defined citadel surrounded by protective moats and thick ramparts. Furthermore, inside the citadel, there are the foundations of a two-tiered royal palace. The palace is complete with ancient latrines and footings for wooden pillars. However, the Ektem Maligaya, or the perfectly circular tower, was the most fascinating feature of the Panduwasnuwara ancient city.  Local folklore links it to romantic legends of hidden princesses. Also, historians believe it was used by King Parakramabahu for swearing-in allegiance rituals. 5. Kurunegala Lake (Rantalia Tank) Kurunegala Lake is the ultimate place to unwind after a busy day. It is at the foot of the animal rocks.  I loved walking along the well-paved path hugging the banks. You can also do a pedal-boat ride on the lake.  Furthermore, you can just relax sitting in the nearby restaurants and trying authentic Sri Lankan cuisine.  6. Arankele Forest Hermitage Arankele is a meditation retreat. It was originally built for austere Buddhist monks, and with untouched jungle, it still exudes a strong spiritual vibe.  As I walked through the stone-paved paths, I came across the ancient Padhanagharas, or meditation halls, I also saw sun-dappled ponds, cave dwellings, and Jantagharas, or the houses for hot water baths.  The hermitage is covered by a dense canopy, keeping it quiet and cool. Here, you will only listen to distant bird calls and the rustle of leaves. Where To Stay In Kurunegala?  Kurunegala offers accommodation options that cater perfectly to both city-center conveniences and quiet countryside getaways. In Kurunegala, you can choose your accommodation based on the kind of experience you want.  Here, you will find options that cater perfectly to both city-center conveniences and quiet countryside getaways. City Hotels And Business Stays If you want to stay close to the city, Kandyan Reach Hotel is an excellent option.  It has comfortable rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and proximity to major transport lines.  Also, it is a mid-range choice for travelers exploring the downtown rocks. Nature Resorts And Luxury Estates If you love tranquility, you can choose the eco-lodges in the surrounding districts or the heritage properties inside the coconut plantations.  For example, the Coco Forest Resort offers an excellent farm-stay experience.