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BY  Sibashree Jul 9, 2026

Kurunegala has recently been in the news due to infrastructure development. The cabinet meeting granted the construction of stage 1 of phase 4 of the Central Expressway Project.  It will connect Kurunegala and Dambulla, which is famous for the iconic Dambulla Royal Cave Temple.  The Road Development Authority (RDA) has further confirmed that the extension work will start in November 2026.  However, Kurunegala has always been a melting pot for the cultural hub of Kandy, Puttalam, Negombo and the country’s capital, Colombo.  Also, as the capital of the northwestern province, it holds massive strategic and political importance.  Where Is Kurunegala?  Kurunegala is in the north-western interior of Sri Lanka.  As the capital of the Kurunegala District and the North-Western Province, it also functions as a major transportation hub.  Furthermore, it is around 94 kilometers northeast of the country’s capital, Colombo. In addition, the distance between Kandy and Kurunegala is just 42 km.  How To Reach Kurunegala? While traveling from Colombo, Kandy is the gateway to reach Kurunegala. I took a bus from the Kandy Goods Shed Bus Stand.  Buses run regularly from Kandy to Kurunegala, or route 602, and the journey via Katugastota-Kurunegala Road (A10) takes around 1.5 to 2 hours.  I traveled in a regular bus, and the ticket price was LKR 200. Semi-luxury, luxury, and super-luxury bus options are also available on this route, and the ticket prices will be between LKR 350 and LKR 600.  Why Is Kurunegala Famous? Ancient Royal History! Majestic Geology!  An Agricultural Powerhouse!  These are the three main reasons behind Kurunegala’s prominent position in the tourism landscape of Sri Lanka.  The Capital Of Ancient Kingdoms From the late 13th to the early 14th century, Kurunegala was the royal Capital of Sri Lanka.  It was known as Hasthishaila-pura earlier, and under the rule of kings like Buwanekabahu II and Parakramabahu IV, it safeguarded the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha. Also, including the Yapahuwa rock fortress, the silver cave temple of Ridi Viharaya, and the ancient ruins of Panduwasnuwara, the city has many historic ruins and citadels.  The City Of Animal Rocks A ring of eight massive ancient granite outcrops encircles Kurunegala. These granite outcrops, suddenly rising from the plains, look surreal.  Furthermore, my guide told me a fascinating folklore about these outcrops.  “Kurunegala once faced a severe drought. Then, a witch turned water-guzzling animals into stone. In fact, some of these rocks are famously named after the animals their silhouettes resemble.” For example, Athugala looks like an elephant, Ibbagala looks like the back of a tortoise, and Andagala resembles an eel.  The Heart Of The Coconut Triangle Kurunegala, like Kalutara, is famous for rubber estates. It also has endless coconut plantations.  In fact, it is located inside the “Coconut Triangle" of Sri Lanka. So, overall, it is a prominent commercial hub for agricultural production.  Moreover, it is the cradle of Selyn, Sri Lanka’s only fair-trade guaranteed handloom company. So, it is also a critical center for preserving the island's traditional textile heritage. What Are The Places To Visit In Kurunegala?  Kurunegala offers the ultimate off-the-beaten-path experience in Sri Lanka.  For me, the most fascinating places to visit here are the ancient rocks and the spiritual landmarks.  While these connect you to history, the scenic waterways and modern sanctuaries allow you to unwind and soak in the local vibe.  1. Athugala Rock Temple  Athugala dominates the skyline of Kurunegala.  This outcrop has a height of 325 meters, and it gets its name from its uncanny resemblance to a giant, crouching elephant (Atha meaning elephant and Gala meaning rock). Furthermore, once I reached the summit, I found a magnificent Buddha statue of 88 feet in height.  You can take a car ride to reach the summit. However, I preferred a trek through the stone steps.  Fortunately, I reached the summit at sunset. So, the experience was magical.  2. Ridi Vihariya Or The Silver Temple  Ridi Viharaya connects us to the 2nd century BCE. This ancient cave temple is around 20 kilometers away from the main town in Rideegama.  King Dutugemunu discovered a rich vein of silver ore here. Then he used the silver ore to finance the construction of the famous Ruwanweli Maha Seya in Anuradhapura. Furthermore, Ridi Vihariya is hidden by rocky cliffs and forest cover. Also, it is home to a magnificent reclining Buddha statue, Kandyan-era frescoes, and ivory carvings.  3. Yapahuwa Rock Fortress The Yapahuwa Rock Fortress is often compared to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress.  Yapahuwa was the capital of Sri Lanka under King Bhuvanekabahu I in the late 13th century.  Furthermore, the temple is constructed against a sheer, 200-meter-high granite rock that juts dramatically out of the surrounding jungle. Moreover, it has a highly ornamental staircase. Stone lions and intricate carvings adorn the path.  What is more fascinating than these steps, which once led to the royal palace and the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic? 4. Panduwasnuwara Ancient City Panduwasnuwara, which served as a temporary capital in the 12th century, is a dramatic ruin site. It has a well-defined citadel surrounded by protective moats and thick ramparts. Furthermore, inside the citadel, there are the foundations of a two-tiered royal palace, complete with ancient latrines and footings for wooden pillars. However, the Ektem Maligaya, or the perfectly circular tower, was the most fascinating feature of the Panduwasnuwara ancient city.  Local folklore links it to romantic legends of hidden princesses, while historians believe it was used by King Parakramabahu for swearing-in allegiance rituals. 5. Kurunegala Lake (Rantalia Tank) Kurunegala Lake is the ultimate place to unwind after a busy day. It is at the foot of the animal rocks.  I loved walking along the well-paved path hugging the banks. You can also do a pedal-boat ride on the lake.  Furthermore, you can just relax sitting in the nearby restaurants and trying authentic Sri Lankan cuisine.  6. Arankele Forest Hermitage Arankele is a meditation retreat. It was originally built for austere Buddhist monks, and with untouched jungle, it still exudes a strong spiritual vibe.  As I walked through the stone-paved paths, I came across the ancient Padhanagharas or meditation halls, sun-dappled ponds, cave dwellings, and Jantagharas or the houses for hot water baths.  The hermitage is covered by a dense canopy, keeping it quiet and cool, and here, you will only listen to distant bird calls and the rustle of leaves. Where To Stay In Kurunegala?  Kurunegala offers accommodation options that cater perfectly to both city-center conveniences and quiet countryside getaways. In Kurunegala, you can choose your accommodation based on the kind of experience you want.  Here, you will find options that cater perfectly to both city-center conveniences and quiet countryside getaways. City Hotels And Business Stays If you want to stay close to the city, Kandyan Reach Hotel is an excellent option.  It has comfortable rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and proximity to major transport lines.  Also, it is a mid-range choice for travelers exploring the downtown rocks. Nature Resorts And Luxury Estates If you love tranquility, you can choose the eco-lodges in the surrounding districts or the heritage properties inside the coconut plantations.  For example, the Coco Forest Resort offers an excellent farm-stay experience.

BY  Sibashree Sep 18, 2026

Ruwanwelisaya, or Ruwanmeli Maha Seya, won me over with its height from a distance of 100 meters.   From there also, I could not fit it into a single frame.  Also, the most astonishing feature was the frieze of stone elephant heads running the entire base of the stupa.   It took me around 10 minutes just to walk the perimeter counting them. I counted up to two hundred and then lost a count of the elephant heads.   Then, I saw the marble courtyard where white-clad pilgrims were circling clockwise.   Also, the heat radiating off the stone by mid-morning reminded me of an old saying frequently uttered by my grandmother, Thamma,  She used to say in Bengali, “Kosto na korle kesto mele na.” Roughly means, to receive the blessings of the divine, you have to put some hard efforts.   Ruwanwelisaya At A Glance  Detail Information Other Names Ruwanweli Maha Seya Maha Thupa Swarnamali Chaitya Built by King Dutugemunu. He begun the construction around 140 BC and then his brother,,  King Saddhatissa completed it.  Height 103 meters Circumference 290 meters Status One of the Atamasthana (8 sacred sites) and Solosmasthana (16 sacred sites) of Sri Lankan Buddhism UNESCO status Part of the Sacred City of Anuradhapura, inscribed 1982 Access Included in the Anuradhapura Sacred City ticket (foreign visitors) Dress code Pilgrims wear white clothes.  Also, shoulders and knees must be covered, and you need to remove your shoes and hats.   King Dutugemunu: The King Who Never Saw His Stupa Finished You cannot separate the story of King Dutugemunu from the Ruwanwelisaya stupa.   He unified Sri Lanka in the 2nd century BC after defeating the Chola ruler Elara.   According to the chapters 22 to 32 of Mahavamsa, or the Great Chronicle, Dutugemunu began construction of the stupa around 140 BC.  It was an act of religious devotion meant to enshrine one-eighth of the sacred body relics of Lord Gautam Buddha.  However, he died before the work was complete. King Saddhatissa, his brother was the successor.   The younger brother, had the unfinished structure wrapped in white cloth so the dying king could see it appear complete.   This part of the history is seen as a later embellishment as many historians, though.   Still, when the local guide told me story, it touched me.   The Completion Of The Stupa And Later Renovations   Saddhatissa finished the stupa.  Then, the subsequent kings renovated it. King Nissanka Malla in the 12th century is one of those kings to undertake this renovation after Saddhatissa.  However, by 19th century, the stupa was in ruins.   Again, a restoration campaign started in 1893 by the monk Naranvita Sumanasara Thera.  The renovation was public funded and the Ruwanweli Seya Restoration Society took the charge of it.   So, what we see today is the restored form in 1893 and later, in June 1940, the stupa got its new pinnacle.   Why Is It Called The 'Great Stupa'? Ruwanwelisaya, or the Maha Thupa, literally means 'the Great Stupa.'   It is among the Atamasthana, meaning the eight sacred places of Anuradhapura. It is even the most significant of these eight sites.   The stupa is within the Mahamevnawa Park, close enough to the Sri Maha Bodhi and the ruins of the Lovamahapaya.  So, I completed all three in the same walk without quite planning to.  Walking The Site: What To Expect As I said, the imposing scale of the stupa was the first thing I noticed.   The second thing I saw was the elephant wall.   Here is a brief highlight on what made awestruck in the stipa complex.   The Elephant Wall  A retaining wall rings the base of the stupa.  It has hundreds of elephant heads and forequarters.  The distance between the heads are very less. So, from a distance it reads as a single continuous herd holding the dome up.   A local guard told me that the exact count was 344.   However, as I mentioned, I could not finish the counting after 200.   The Marble Courtyard And Vahalkadas  The stupa has a wide, pale courtyard and vahalkadas ring the stupa at four cardinal points.   Vahalkadas are carved stone frontispieces with figures of elephants, horses, lions, and dwarfs.  Walking barefoot across the marble was a difficult task, especially in the late morning of the dry season.   However, I managed it hopping between the shaded patches.  The Evening Atmosphere  The stupa had a great impact on me, and I could not help but come back for a visit in the evening.   It was looking more divine with its floodlights creating a sheer contrast against the sky.   The stupa complex was busier in the evening, and the devotees were circling the stupa clockwise while chanting quietly.  Tickets And What They Cover Ruwanwelisaya does not need a separate ticket.  It is part of the Anuradhapura Sacred City ticket that foreign visitors need to enter the main archaeological zone.   As of 2026, pricing for that combined ticket runs from roughly US$25 to US$30 per adult.  The ticket covers Ruwanwelisaya alongside Jetavanaramaya, Thuparamaya, Abhayagiri, Lovamahapaya, and the twin ponds.   It does not cover Isurumuniya, the Sri Maha Bodhi enclosure, or Mihintale, each of which has its own separate ticket.  Ticket Approximate price (As of September 2026) Covers Ruwanwelisaya? Anuradhapura Sacred City ticket US$25–30 Yes Combined Cultural Triangle ticket US$50 Yes (Along with Sigiriya Rock Fortress, Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Polonnaruwa) Isurumuniya (separate) 500 LKR No Sri Maha Bodhi enclosure Offers a free entry. However, you can offer a small donation.  No  Opening Hours And Best Time To Visit The main archaeological sites, Ruwanwelisaya included, are generally open from around 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM daily.  Early morning is quietest and coolest for the walk around the courtyard and elephant wall.  Poya (full moon) days, especially June's Poson Poya, bring the largest crowds of pilgrims and the most atmospheric evening lighting.  Dry season, from May to September, offers the most comfortable conditions for the barefoot courtyard walk.  How To Reach Ruwanwelisaya? Ruwanwelisaya is inside Anuradhapura's Sacred City zone.  It is about a 1 km walk from the Eastern Gate car park and close to the Sri Maha Bodhi.   You can explore the zone by rented bicycle (roughly LKR 200–300 per day).  It is also the most practical way to cover the site because the individual monuments are at a distance from each other.  I underestimated the distances on foot and regretted it by early afternoon.  A Simple Half-Day Route Around Ruwanwelisaya  Time Stop Notes 7:00 AM Sri Maha Bodhi Quietest at dawn, most devotional atmosphere. 8:00 AM Ruwanwelisaya Elephant wall, courtyard, main stupa. 9:30 AM Thuparamaya Smaller, older stupa nearby. 10:30 AM Jetavanaramaya Once the tallest stupa in the ancient world. Evening Return to Ruwanwelisaya Floodlit and busiest with local devotees after dark.  What Ruwanwelisaya Represents Today  More than two thousand years after Dutugemunu started the construction, Ruwanwelisaya is still an active place of worship.  It is not a museum.   The restoration endeavors of the elephant wall and dome go on.   Also, pilgrims keep circling it in white on every Poya day of the year.   Of everything I saw across Anuradhapura, it is the site that made the clearest case for why this ancient capital is still called sacred rather than simply historic.

BY  Sibashree Aug 29, 2026

Like how I had pulled over for St. Clair's Fall, the same thing happened a few kilometers along the A7.   The driver asked me not to keep my camera aside yet, and suddenly the hillside opened up.   There was a long, narrow ribbon of white water dropping almost straight down into a gorge of tea bushes.  It was Devon Falls, the “Veil of the Valley” in Sri Lanka’s Tea Country. The name comes from how it falls a long way.   So, it more than makes up for the lack of width compared to St. Clair's Waterfall. Here is more about this beautiful waterfall that should be on your Sri Lanka itinerary the next time you visit.   Some Quick Facts About Devon Falls, Nuwara Eliya   Details  Information Height Around 97 Meters Number of Drops  3 Tiers River A Tributary of the Kotmale Oya, Part of the Mahaweli River System Location 6 KM West of Talawakele, Nuwara Eliya District, Central Province Elevation Around 1140 Meters Above Sea Level Entry Fee Free and Viewable from Roadside Platform Nickname The Veil of the Valley Rank 19th Highest Waterfall in Sri Lanka  Where Is Devon Falls And How To Get There? Around 6 kilometers west of Talawakele, Devon Falls is on the A7 highway that connects Colombo to Nuwara Eliya via Hatton.  This waterfall in the Nuwara Eliya District is at an elevation of around 1140 meters. It is in the heart of the Dimbula tea-growing region.   From Nuwara Eliya  The distance between Nuwara Eliya and Devon Waterfall is around 30 kilometers. I took a car from Nuwara Eliya, and it cost me around 3000 LKR.   You can also take a tuk-tuk, which costs around LKR 2000.   The road passes directly above the falls. So, even before you reach the viewpoint, you will get your first glimpse of it through the windscreen.  From Kandy Or Colombo  If you are traveling from Kandy by road, you will reach Devon Falls within 2 to 2.5 hours via Gampola and Nawalapitiya.   Furthermore, from Colombo, it is a 4-hour drive on the Avissawella–Hatton route. Since it is a long journey from Colombo, you can pair it with a night in Hatton or Nuwara Eliya rather than a same-day round trip.  On Foot From The Road  There are two designated car parks along the A7 that double as observation platforms.   Both offer a clear view of the three-tiered drop without any walking required.   If you want a closer look, a short trail leads about a kilometre through the surrounding tea estate toward the base, though the pool itself is not easy to reach.  The Story Behind The Name Of Devon Falls Devon Falls gets its name from Devon, a pioneering English coffee planter.   His plantation once occupied the land nearby.   When coffee cultivation collapsed across Sri Lanka's hill country in the late 19th century due to a leaf-rust blight, tea took its place.  Today, the falls tumble past neat rows of tea bushes rather than coffee, though the name from that earlier era stuck.  What I found most memorable about Devon Falls was not just its height, but how sudden it feels.   St. Clair's spreads its water wide and slow.  Devon narrows it and lets it drop, almost in a single unbroken curtain through the first two tiers before spreading again near the base.   Moreover, standing at the main viewpoint opposite the Mlesna Tea Centre, you get the full length of the fall in one frame, framed by steep, green escarpments on both sides.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Devon Falls?  Season Months What to Expect Wet Season May to September Fuller, more dramatic flow, though mist can obscure the view Dry Season December to March Clearer skies, better for photography, lighter flow Early Morning Any Season, Before 9 AM Less roadside traffic and softer light on the water  Pairing Devon Falls With St. Clair's Because the two falls sit only a few kilometres apart on the same road, almost nobody visits just one.   St. Clair's is the wider, more famous of the pair, while Devon is the taller and, to my eye, the more dramatic.   Seeing both in a single stop along the A7 takes less than half a day, which makes this stretch of road one of the most efficient sightseeing detours in the hill country.  A One-Day Itinerary Around Devon Falls Here's how I'd plan a day trip centred on Devon Falls, starting from Nuwara Eliya or Hatton.  Time Stop Note  8:30 AM Depart Nuwara Eliya or Hatton Aim to reach the falls before the midday tour-bus crowds.  9:30 AM St. Clair's Falls Roadside viewpoint, about 6 km east of Devon.  10:30 AM Devon Falls View from the main platform opposite Mlesna Tea Centre.  11:15 AM Tea estate walk or factory visit Several estates in Dimbula offer short tours.  12:30 PM Lunch in Talawakele Local rice-and-curry spots along the main road.  2:00 PM Onward to Hatton or Nuwara Eliya Or continue toward Adam's Peak if timing allows.   Practical Tips For A Visit To Devon Falls  Both viewpoints are roadside, so no hiking is required if you just want the classic photo.  Traffic along the A7 can be heavy with tour vans in the late morning. So, an early start helps.  Skip swimming here. The pool is difficult to access, and the currents near the base are not considered safe.  Pack a light jacket. At over 1,100 m elevation, mornings can be genuinely chilly even in the dry season.  We only stopped for about fifteen minutes at Devon Falls.  However, it was one of those places that have stayed with me. That long, narrow drop through the tea hills, half-hidden in mist, is hard to shake.