Where Is Uppuveli Beach, Trincomalee? What Are The Best Things About The Beach?

After spending time in the northern city of Jaffna exploring everything it has to offer, I was looking forward to relaxing. 

Jaffna has some beautiful temples, and despite being a slow travel destination, the rich Tamil culture and history offered a fulfilling experience. 

However, I needed a place where I could relax and soak in the memories I have collected there.

I intended to enjoy just those “beachy” times when I arrived at Trincomalee, and that is exactly what I found on the Uppuveli Beach. 

This was the ultimate “holiday within my backpacking trip,” and completely different from the beaches in Jaffna.

Where Is The Uppuveli Beach?

Where Is The Uppuveli Beach

Uppuveli Beach is in Trincomalee. On the northeastern coast of Sri Lanka, it is further the epicenter if you are exploring the things to do in Trincomalee. 

The distance between the Uppuveli Beach and the Trincomalee city center is just 6 kilometers. So, you can reach within a drive of just 15 minutes. 

Moreover, it is famous for the beauty of the Bay of Bengal, and from here you can explore nearby attractions such as the Pigeon Island Marine National Park and Swami Rock.

How To Reach Uppuveli Beach From Trincomalee? The Blue Bus Experience?

You can travel from Jaffna to Trincomalee by bus like me. Trincomalee, anyway, is a major transport hub. 

Furthermore, it is well-connected to Colombo, Kandy, and even Habarana, which is the major gateway to many other things to see in Sri Lanka, such as the Hurulu Eco Park, Sigiriya Rock, the Pidurangala Rock, and the Kaudulla National Park. 

I reached Trincomalee from Jaffna by bus within 4 hours and 50 minutes. However, our driver, Ahoy, said that on days of dense traffic, it can take up to 5 hours and 30 minutes. 

Travel From Jaffna To Trincomalee By Bus

The blue buses from Jaffna to Trincomalee are the cheapest mode of transport. The ticket cost roughly 1100 LKR. 

From Trincomalee To Uppuveli Beach 

From the Trincomalee Bus Station, I took a tuk-tuk to the Uppuveli Beach. The tuk-tuk driver charged me 500 LKR. 

The Experience At Uppuveli Beach 

The Experience At Uppuveli Beach

Uppuveli Beach is the place that offers you simplicity, and here, you will forget keeping track of your time. 

You can swim, sunbathe, or just soak in the beauty of the golden hour, or just soak in the beauty of golden hour or count the waves like me. 

The Golden Hour

See a sunset on the beach while it’s still dark out. 

Uppuveli faces the east, and it offers an amazing view of the Bay of Bengal when the sun rises. 

The sky looks like it’s on fire with shades of pink and gold lighting up the clouds. 

The Waves

The waves were huge when I was there in July.

The waves here rise really high above your head and can definitely knock you over if you don’t pay attention to them when swimming. 

If you can catch the waves just right, they are also great for body surfing. As always, be respectful of the Indian Ocean. 

What Are The Things To Do At Uppuveli Beach?

What Are The Things To Do At Uppuveli Beach

Uppuveli offers a serene alternative to the more crowded southern beaches. 

Boasting breathtaking turquoise waters and palm trees swaying in harmony with one another, Uppuveli is a welcoming community that exudes a sense of calm.

1. Marine Adventures At Pigeon Island Marine National Park

The number one attraction in Uppuveli is Pigeon Island Marine National Park. 

A 20-minute boat ride from the beach will take you to Pigeon Island, a protected sanctuary surrounded by colorful and lively coral reefs. 

Pigeon Island is famous as one of the three places in the world where you can see black-tip reef sharks and giant sea turtles in the shallow waters (up to 12 feet). 

You may also dive deeper by visiting several local dive shops that operate daily excursions to the Uppuveli Pinnacles and the famous shipwrecks in and around Uppuveli. 

Local dive shops also provide excursions between March and September to boat watch for blue whales and pods of spinning dolphins.

2. Visit The Cultural Landmarks Of Swami Rock

You may take a short tuk-tuk ride to the Swami Rock Temple located in Trincomalee town. 

Swami Rock is perched on a cliff and provides some of the best views of the ocean as you look towards the Koneswaram Hindu Temple, which is located in the middle of the cliff and overlooks Trincomalee Harbor.

The temple is dedicated to Shiva and is a great example of intricate Dravidian-style architecture. 

In addition to the temple at Swami Rock, you will also see Lover’s Leap, which is nearby and steeped in local folklore.

3. Visit Fort Frederick And Find Spotted Deer

On your way to the Koneswaram Temple, be sure to visit Fort Frederick.

It is a 17th-century fortress built by the Portuguese. 

Fort Frederick today is a peaceful area. It has many spotted deer, and you can see them roaming freely between colonial buildings and massive banyan trees.

4. Kanniya Hot Water Springs

For something unique, head inland to the Kanniya Hot Water Springs. 

There are seven stone wells here, each producing water at a slightly different temperature. 

It’s a traditional site for ritual bathing. Also, people believe that water here has healing properties.

Moreover, at Uppuveli Beach, you can have the best dining and drinking experience thanks to places such as Fernando’s Bar, Rice ‘n’ Curry, and Cafe on the 18th.

Also, you will find Wanderers Hostel and other budget-friendly places to stay near the Uppuveli Beach. 

When Is The Best Time To Visit Uppuveli Beach? 

The best time to visit Uppuveli Beach is between February and August, and July is the peak month. 

From August, the ocean starts getting a little rougher. 

Moreover, as I have mentioned, it is best to hit the beach when it is still dark. Thus, you can enjoy the magic of the sunrise. 

Also, if you want a drink by the sea, 3:30 PM to 4 PM will be the best. As you gulp down some cold Lion Lager, the Sun prepares to go to rest for the day.

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Sibashree is a travel, culture, and leisure writer who has been writing since the age of 12 and professionally since 2014. With more than a decade of travel writing experience and journeys across India and several parts of the world, she brings a deeply personal and thoughtful perspective to her work. A student of English Literature and Mass Communication, Sibashree has always viewed travel as more than movement — for her, it has been a way of understanding people, cultures, and herself. Her passion for spiritual exploration has also led her to many unusual and meaningful destinations over the years. Outside of writing, Sibashree enjoys watching European cinema, reading about global politics, and reflecting on the stories hidden within everyday places.

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How Chilaw, Sri Lanka, Turned A Quick Stop Into Two Extra Days: Know The Fishing Town

BY  Sibashree Aug 21, 2026

Chilaw drew my attention with the smell of drying fish at the harbor. As I reached the fishing town, I heard a low chant drifting out of a Shiva temple.  Chilaw, which almost a year back had a Korea FAO Sustainable and Innovative Fisheries and Aquaculture Programme (KOFAF) to boost the shrimp aquaculture of Sri Lanka, is a fishing town first.  Then, it is a pilgrimage site and almost as an afterthought, a beach destination.  Overall, it felt so unpolished and real in a way that many famous coastal stops in Sri Lanka have lost for a long time. How To Reach Chilaw, Sri Lanka And Get Around?  Chilaw is around 52.9 km away from the Bandaranaike International Airport. By road, the journey is around 1.5 hours to 2 hours.  The town's own railway station is about 3 kilometres from the centre, with regular services connecting to Colombo along the coastal line. ModeEstimated Time From ColomboApproximate Cost (LKR)NotesCar / Taxi2 Hours8000-15000(Based on Vehicle Type)Most FlexibleEasiest Way to Combine Chilaw with Anawilundawa and Marawila in One LoopUber2 HoursUber Go Intercity: 12016Uber Sedan: Intercity: 12629UberXL Intercity: ₹16062(Source: Uber.com) Best for First-timers.Safer for Solo, Women Travelers. Train (Colombo Fort–Puttalam line)Around 2.5 to 3 HoursThird Class Tickets: 180Second Class Tickets: 400First Class Tickets: 750(Source: Sri Lankan Railways.)The Station is roughly 3 km from the Town CentreA Tuk-Tuk Covers the Last StretchBus2–2.5 Hours150-300Regular Services along the Coastal RouteIt is the Cheapest Option Once you reach Chilaw, you can move around in tuk-tuks. From the town center, you can take a short ride to the fish market and near St. Mary's Church. You can even ferry to Anawilundawa and back after a half-day trip.  However, here, I had to negotiate a lot with the drivers. You must also fix the price upfront so that they do not end up adding more to the price during the trip.  What Are The Top Attractions In Chilaw?  Chilaw does not offer a resort trip like Bentota or Hikkaduwa. It mostly has simple guesthouses as accommodations.  Also, if you want to focus on the quieter beach experience, you can stay in the larger properties in Marawila.  Still, Chilaw is not like a typical touristy or bucket-list destination, and here are the places I visited during my stay.  1. Munneswaram Temple Like the Pancha Bhoota Sthals in India, Sri Lanka also has its five ancient Ishwarams dedicated to Lord Shiva.  Munneswaram is one of them.  The temple is a complex of five temples, dedicated to Shiva, Ganesha, Ayyanayake, Kali, and, notably, a shrine to the Buddha as well.  This temple once again reminded me that the religious traditions of Sri Lanka have always been inclusive. Also, they have often overlapped with each other, rather than staying separate.  Why Is The Munneswaram Temple So Special?  The temple has a mythological association with the Ramayana. It is said that Lord Ramachandra worshipped Lord Shiva here for penance after killing Ravana, who was an ardent Shiva devotee and a Brahman.  Along with the mythological connection, the temple also stands out with its ambiance. As I entered the temple, the incense smoke rose over the Dravidian-style gopuram.  Also, there was a practiced calm even if the priests and devotees moved between the shrines.  However, the temple bustles with energy and human presence during the annual Munneswaram festival.  It is usually held in August, and the entire town seems to reorganise itself around the procession. 2. Chilaw Lagoon And The Sand Spits Chilaw picks its own rhythm from the lagoon. It is fringed by sixteen species of mangrove and reaches close to four metres at its deepest point before opening into the Indian Ocean. I took a late-afternoon boat out with a local fisherman who moonlights as a guide.  I spotted egrets lifting off the mangrove roots, and the occasional splash of a mullet. Also, with absolutely no other tourists in sight, it was the most peaceful 1 hour in Chilaw.  The lagoon isn't just scenic. It is a working fishery that supports well over a thousand families in the area, and you feel that livelihood everywhere. I saw the nets drying along the banks to the small jetties where boats are unloaded each morning.  Nearby, the Chilaw sand spits offer a quieter, more unusual landscape for birdwatchers, with shifting sandbanks that host wading birds you won't easily spot elsewhere on this coast. Regarding the charges, you have to negotiate directly with a fisherman at the jetty rather than book through a formal operator. My boat ride cost me LKR 500.   So, this is still very much an informal, word-of-mouth arrangement, and that is why there will be a lot of negotiations regarding the trip duration and the charges.  3. Anawilundawa Wetland Sanctuary If you are staying in Chilaw, do not skip a half-day trip to Anawilundawa, located between Chilaw and Puttalam.  This 1400 hectares area is a Ramsar Site, and it has three distinct ecosystems. You will find a  mangrove swamp, coastal saltwater belt, and freshwater lakes. Also, the biodiversity numbers are amazing. 150 Bord Species 20 Mammal Species 70 Types of Butterflies Moreover, half of the freshwater fish species in Sri Lanka call Anawilundawa Wetland Sanctuary their home.  I made a mistake by not taking a guide with me for the wetland visit.  A local birder pointed out species from the boat that I would have completely missed on my own, including a painted stork colony that was, frankly, worth the whole detour. If birdwatching is even a mild interest, hire a guide at the entrance.  It is inexpensive and transforms the visit. The entry is free, and the guide cost will be around LKR 1500 for two hours. Also, the sanctuary remains open from 6 AM to 6 PM.  4. Faith Along The Coast: Churches And Kovils Home to the Munneswaram Temple, Chilaw also harbors a Catholic heritage.  The St. Mary's Church in the town centre is a prominent example, and its architecture and quiet courtyard make it worth a stop even outside service hours.  A short drive away in Thalawila, St. Anne's Church draws thousands of pilgrims each July for its annual feast, one of the larger Catholic gatherings on this stretch of coast, complete with processions and all-night vigils. What struck me most, wandering between kovils, churches, and small unnamed shrines tucked down side streets, was how unremarkable this coexistence felt to the people living it. Nobody made a point of it.  It was simply how the town worked. 5. Beaches, Toddy Taverns, And The Fish Market Chilaw beaches are not the typical postcard frames you will find on the southern coast.  Silver Beach, the most prominent among them, is right in town. I loved an early evening walk there.  Also, nearby Marawila offers a longer, quieter stretch of sand if you are willing to drive twenty minutes north. For a real sense of the town, though, skip the beach and get to the Chilaw fish market before 7 AM.  It was loud, slippery underfoot, and completely unstaged. Furthermore, when the boats came in, auctioneers shouted prices, and vendors were already frying fresh catch on the spot.  I ended up having a breakfast of string hoppers and coconut sambol from a stall two feet from the water, and it remains one of the best meals of the trip. Later, I visited one small family-run toddy tavern. It served fresh fermented palm sap alongside coconut-based snacks.  It was strong, and I just took a few sips. Though it is a slice of daily Chilaw life, it is not for someone who is not used to it.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Chilaw?  Being on the west coast, Chilaw follows a different rhythm than the south or east. SeasonMonthsConditionsDry SeasonDecember–MarchSunny and low-humidity weather conditions are the best for lagoon trips and wetland walks.ShoulderApril, NovemberTransitional months offer fewer crowds, and the weather can be mixed.Southwest MonsoonMay–OctoberHeavier rain makes birdwatching and boating harder to plan around.Munneswaram FestivalUsually AugustThe town reorganises around the temple procession.So, it is worth timing a visit around. Combining Chilaw With Nearby Stops Route SegmentApprox. Driving TimeBest Known ForColombo to Chilaw2 hoursMunneswaram Temple, fish marketChilaw to Anawilundawa30 minutesWetland sanctuary, birdwatchingChilaw to Marawila20 minutesQuieter beach stretchChilaw to Puttalam45 minutesPuttalam Lagoon, salt pansPuttalam to Wilpattu National Park30–45 minutesLeopard sightings, natural "villu" lakes This makes Chilaw a natural half-day or overnight anchor for a longer west-coast loop rather than a single-purpose day trip. Why Chilaw Is Worth It Chilaw is not a destination that announces itself.  There is no single landmark that makes it onto every Sri Lanka itinerary, no beach that dominates Instagram feeds.  What it offers instead is texture. It has a working fish market, a thousand-year-old temple complex, mangrove lagoons, and a religious diversity that's lived rather than performed.  If you are the kind of traveller who would rather stumble into a real town than tick off a famous one, Chilaw is worth far more than the quick pass-through I originally planned.

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Lahugala National Park: A Quiet Corner Of Sri Lanka’s Wild East

BY  Sibashree Sep 8, 2026

I was quite content at Arugam Bay for a week of surfing, and I had Kumana penciled in as one of my big wildlife detours.  I had heard about Lahugala, but most guides or locals I met mentioned it in passing.  It was more like, “Oh, that little park on the way to Pottuvil, you'll drive past it anyway.” However, an elderly guesthouse owner told me not to skip it. I listened to him. Otherwise, I would have missed the most understated, elephant-dense pockets of wilderness.  It was not like anything I had visited in Sri Lanka. Also, the best part was that I had it almost entirely to myself.  The park neither can nor tries to compete with Yala National Park or Wilpattu in scale or star power.  It is 5.4 square kilometres of flat, tank-fed scrubland in the Eastern Province, and that smallness is precisely the point. Everything in Lahugala revolves around water, grass, and elephants, and on the afternoon I visited, all three came together in a way I still think about. A Quick Introduction To Lahugala National Park Lahugala Kitulana National Park is in the eastern province of Sri Lanka, and it is roughly 16 Km inland from Arugam Bay.  It is also just off the Pottuvil–Monaragala road, which actually cuts through the park's southeastern edge. This park began its journey as a wildlife sanctuary in July 1966. Then, on 31st October 1980, it had an upgrade as a national park.  Furthermore, the ecology of the park revolves around the three ancient tanks, Lahugala, Kitulana, and Senagamuwa. These tanks eventually drain into the Heda Oya River. Nevertheless, have a look at the quick snapshot below before you plan a visit to Lahugala National Park.  DetailInformationLocationEastern Province, near Pottuvil and Arugam BayAreaApproximately 15.4 sq kmEstablishedSanctuary in 1966National park status on 31 Oct 1980Key featureThree Interconnected TanksLahugalaKitulanaSenagamuwaFamous forElephant gatherings around Lahugala tank, especially in the dry seasonNearest townPottuvil (approx. 16 km)Arugam Bay (approx. 16–18 km)Best seasonYear-roundElephant sightings are strongest July–September How To Reach Lahugala?  You do not need to plan a standalone trip for Lahugala National Park.  Like most travelers, I reached Lahugala from Arugam Bay. The tuk-tuk price was LKR 3000, and it took around 45 minutes.  Furthermore, the distance between Colombo and Lahugala is around 378 kilometers. So, if you are traveling from Colombo, choose Ella or Monaragala as your overnight stop.  Attempting the national park from Colombo will be an overly ambitious plan.  FromApprox. DistanceApproximate Drive TimeArugam Bay16–18 kmAround 30- 45 MinutesPottuvil16 km20–25 minutesMonaragala45 km1 hourColombo378 km6–7 hours The A4 Highway from Pottuvil to Monaragala runs directly alongside and briefly through the park. So, you do not even need a dedicated safari transfer to see part of Lahugala.  So, you can see a major section of the tank and grassland from the main road.  However, if you want to explore the interior tracks or the tank edges, you will need a park-registered tracker and jeep.  My Safari Experience At Lahugala National Park It was around 3:30 PM when I reached Lahugala. From the locals, I already knew that it was the ideal window for the classic dawn safari here.  The heat is at its peak in the afternoon, and that is what pushes elephants toward the tanks.  So, in the late afternoon, you will find them near the tanks.  The Elephants Of Lahugala Tank The Lahugala Tank supports a thick growth of Sacciolepis interrupta, a wetland grass elephants seem to genuinely love.  I saw herds gathering along the tank margins to graze on it.  The herds I came across had a decent strength of 20 to 30 elephants. However, the guide told me that during the peak season, there can be around 100 elephants in a herd.  Also, one thing I want to share here. The largest herd I spotted in the park was nowhere near the known gathering spots.  I saw them across the far bank and in the shallows.  Overall, barring the famous gathering of Minneriya, this was the largest elephant encounter I had in Sri Lanka.  I loved the elephant watching experience here because of how unhurried it felt.  No other jeeps were jostling for position, and there was no radio chatter about a sighting three tracks over.  My tracker cut the engine near the tank edge, and we simply sat and watched calves wade in, and adults strip grass with their trunks for close to forty minutes. Birdlife Along The Tanks The three tanks of Lahugala made it an exciting spot for bird watching. The park especially stands out with its population of waterbirds.  I picked out painted storks, several egret species, cormorants, and a pair of white-bellied sea eagles working the thermals above the water. Because the park is so rarely crowded, birds tend to stay closer and longer than they would somewhere busier. Sloth Bears And Other Wildlife In the park, I saw spotted or axis deer, sloth bears, along with mugger crocodiles and freshwater turtles.  However, to be honest, sloth bears are elusive, and you can spot them by luck.  They are shy. So, even if you cannot see them, know that they are present in the park.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Lahugala National Park? Lahugala National Park is a year-round destination.  However, if you are in the park especially for elephant gatherings, dry months are the best time to spot them.  During the dry months of July to September, elephant sightings become frequent, with the water levels dropping elsewhere and the gigantic creatures gathering around the tanks.  Also, you must avoid the northeast monsoon period from October to January. The tanks are full in these months, and the elephants disperse into the surrounding forest, making sightings far less predictable. Entrance Fees And Permits CategoryApproximate Cost (2026)Foreign Adult (12+)USD 12Foreign Child (6–12 Years)USD 6Foreign Children under 6 Years FreeSAARC NationalsUSD 10 for AdultsUSD 5 for Children between 6 and 12 YearsFree for Children below 6 YearsLocals Adults: LKR 60Children from 6 to 12 Years: LKR 30Children below 6 Years: FreeStudents: LKR 20Vehicle Entry TicketLKR 300Foreign Group Fee Per VehicleUSD 10 A Half-Day Lahugala Itinerary Because Lahugala is small, it is easy to pair with either Arugam Bay's beaches or a longer Kumana National Park excursion. Here is roughly how I had structured the afternoon based on my own visit. TimeActivity2:30 PMDepart Arugam Bay 3:00 PMArrive at Lahugala entrance, collect tracker3:30–4:45 PMSafari loop around Lahugala tank, elephant and bird watching4:45–5 PMStop at the old Magul Maha Vihara ruins near the park boundary5:15 PMReturn to Arugam Bay in time for sunset Tips From My Visit A few practical notes I will pass on. Go in the late afternoon rather than dawn, since Lahugala's elephant activity peaks as the heat pushes them toward water. Bring binoculars, as the tank is wide and animals often graze on the far bank. Do not expect the density of jeeps you will find in Yala National Park. This is one of the few parks in Sri Lanka where a wildlife sighting still feels unhurried and private. Nearby Places To Explore Lahugala sits at the crossroads of Sri Lanka's east coast and its deep south, which makes it easy to fold into a longer itinerary.  If you are basing yourself in Arugam Bay, it pairs naturally with a Kumana National Park safari for a more thorough wildlife day.  Travellers heading further south along the coast often continue on toward Pasikudah or Nilaveli for beach time. Again, those coming from the cultural triangle sometimes route through Mullaitivu or Vavuniya on the way east.

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Mullaitivu Tourist Places And The Coastline That Taught Me How Silence Speaks

BY  Sibashree Jul 22, 2026

My trip to Sri Lanka crossed many dramatic turns, especially in the Northern part of the country.  With Vavuniya feeling like a crossroads rather than a stopover and Mannar being a high point where the wind never stops, the next stop was Mullaitivu.  Mullaitivu was a name that I had only read about in the news archives.  Mullaitivu is even in the news today as the people of Keppapilavu have been protesting for days now for the return of their ancestral lands.  Thurairasa Ravikaran and Sivagnanam Shritharan, two Tamil parliamentarians, have shown their support and solidarity to this protest.  Nevertheless, while Trincomalee beaches and the rich culture of Jaffna dominate the conversations about Northern Sri Lanka, Mullaitivu surfaced as a place talking about the past.  In this article, I will talk about my two days in Mullaitivu, from the drive in to the lagoon that ended a war, and why I think this coastline deserves more than a passing mention on a map. Why Mullaitivu Almost Stayed Off My List The day I spent at Vavuniya, the guesthouse caretaker there, a soft-spoken man named Selvam, was the one who first brought up Mullaitivu. About Mullaitivu, he mentioned,  “The beaches were empty, the lagoon was calm, and the town had not yet learned how to perform for tourists.” This stirred me, as most travel forums I had checked mentioned Mullaitivu as a former war zone with a nice coastline and not much infrastructure. While this is not false, this is only a fragmented picture of Mullaitivu. How I Reached Mullaitivu From Vavuniya, I took A34 to reach Mullaitivu. It was a distance of around 54 kilometers, and I reached within an hour and a half.  The road narrowed past Puthukkudiyiruppu, cutting through scrubland, paddy fields, and the occasional stretch of forest before the land flattens out toward the coast. How Mullaitivu Felt At First Sight?  Mullaitivu was once a small fishing harbor.  It was a small fishing harbor and a stop for sailing vessels moving goods between Colombo and Jaffna in the early twentieth century.  Today, it also remains a fishing town, unbothered and unhurried by outsiders.  As I entered the town, my driver, Ravi, pointed out the old lighthouse. It was built in 1896, and it has lost its original iron frame.  So, when you visit the lighthouse today, you can only find a faded signboard.  Nevertheless, I spent my first evening walking along Mullaitivu Beach.  Fishing boats had gathered there, forming neat rows, and the nets were drying on the sand.  Also, it was most delightful to find children playing cricket on the sand with a tennis ball.  Being from the country where cricket is a religion, I joined them. We bonded big time talking over big names such as Kumar Sangakkara and Kusal Mendis.  A few meters away from them, an elderly woman was mending a fishing net.  It felt like a scene from a Sanjeewa Pushpakumara movie. Like his films, Flying Fish and The Venishing, it was like a scene depicting the raw portrayal of survival.  What Are The Places To Visit In Mullaitivu?  I was not prepared for the amount of Civil War history Mullaitivu offered me.  Also, the birds and the sanctuary where the beach and lagoon meet allowed me to unwind with so many things going on in my head about life during and after the Civil War in Sri Lanka.  Nanthikadal Lagoon: Where The War Ended At a glance, the Nanthikadal Lagoon looks like a shallow, sand-fringed body of water. It is on the northeastern edge of the district. Small rivers feed it, and it finally opens into the Indian Ocean.  When I reached the lagoon, I found some egrets standing motionless in the shallows. Then, a kingfisher dropped into the water and came up empty. Ravi then took me to an old man, a local school teacher called Rajan. He narrated the entire story of the Nanthikadal Lagoon to me.  What Happened At Nanthikadal Lagoon  The 26-year Civil War of Sri Lanka ended at Nanthikadal Lagoon in May 2009.  Here, the government forces cornered the last LTTE fighters. The group's leader, Velupillai Prabhakaran, was also killed.  In the weeks before that, civilians had been pushed into a shrinking strip of land along this same lagoon. They were between the fighting lines. In a report published on 17th January 2009, The Guardian wrote,  “International concern is intensifying over the fate of around 350,000 civilians trapped in a rapidly shrinking rebel-controlled pocket of land in Sri Lanka's north east, as the military steps up its campaign to end the civil war by crushing the Tamil Tiger forces. There is no specific count of the number of human casualties in these final months. A 2011 UN Panel of Experts report stated that credible sources estimated as many as 40,000 civilian deaths. Another report, published by The Times (UK) on 29th May 2009 based on confidential UN documents the paper obtained, reported that civilian deaths in the no-fire zone rose sharply from late April. The deaths averaged around 1,000 killed per day until May 19, 2009. Thus, it had put the total civilian death toll at over 20,000. (Source: Al Jazeera).  The Sri Lankan Government has shown a much lower figure.   However, in the UN Rights Council: Act on Sri Lanka Report published on 13th September 2011, Brad Adams, the Asia director at Human Rights Watch, mentioned,  “When a UN Panel of Experts report concludes up to 40,000 civilians died amid war crimes, the Human Rights Council should feel compelled to act. The council should order a full international investigation – anything less would be a shameful abdication of responsibility.” How Nanthikadal Lagoon Looks Back At Those Days Every Year Tamil families gather at Mullivaikkal, close to the lagoon, on 19th May every year to remember relatives lost in the final days.  They light lamps and plant coconut saplings in their memory.  Standing at the water's edge, with fishermen casting nets a short distance away, I found it hard to reconcile the stillness in front of me with what this ground had witnessed. The Victory Monument, The Museum, And The Submarines The Puthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument was on the Paranthan-Mullaitivu road, which was a short drive from the lagoon.  It was unveiled in 2019, and it depicts a soldier carrying the national flag.  Furthermore, the surrounding pond and lilies represent the ocean around the island and the nation itself.  An adjoining war museum displays weapons, vehicles, and vessels used during the conflict's final phase. Entry to the museum was free, and it remains open from 8 AM to 5 PM.  Also nearby, there were rusted hulls, and it was the site where the government troops discovered an abandoned Sea Tiger boatyard in 2009.  It is where the LTTE's naval wing used to build improvised submarines and semi-submersible craft.  I want to be honest about something here. This is a site that different communities in Sri Lanka read very differently, and I do not think a two-day visit qualifies anyone to settle that.  What I can say is that visiting both the lagoon and the monument on the same day gave me a fuller, more uncomfortable picture than either would have alone. The Kokkilai Lagoon:  Where The Coastline Turns Peaceful Again On the second afternoon, I drove out to Kokkilai Lagoon.  It was a wetland sanctuary around 25 kilometers southeast of town.  It has been a protected bird sanctuary since 1951, and I could spot pelicans, herons, and occasional flamingos moving along the shallows.  The crowd of birdwatchers was small, and the overall ambiance was quiet.  Chundikulam Further along the coast, Chundikulam allowed me to relax. It was a sanctuary with no visitors.  I quietly cherished the view of the beach and lagoon blurring into one uninterrupted stretch of sand and water. Coming back from Chundikulam, I had some spicy crab curry and rice at a roadside stall. It was similar to what I had in Jaffna, but it tasted even better.  Ravi said, “It was the only reason to end the day here.”  My Two Days In Mullaitivu: The Itinerary  Day TimeActivities/Places to VisitDay 1MorningDrive from Vavuniya via the A34MiddayCheck-in and Walk through Mullaitivu TownAfternoonNanthikadal Lagoon and the CausewayEveningMullaitivu Beach at SunsetDay 2MorningPuthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument and War MuseumMiddaySea Tiger Submarine YardAfternoonKokkilai Lagoon BirdwatchingEveningChundikulam Coastline and Seafood Dinner Mullaitivu: A Quiet Place That Asks You To Listen  Away from the grandeur of Kandy and Colombo, Mullaitivu is a place that simply exists. It tells the stories of human survival, and it is still recovering and fishing despite the stains and the lives lost in the Civil War.  So, if you are already tracing the north of Sri Lanka through Vavuniya, Kilinochchi, or Mannar, I would not leave Mullaitivu off the route.  Just go with the understanding that this is not a beach add-on. It is a place that holds two very different stories at once, and it does not owe you a tidy conclusion to either.