Why Is Kalutara So Famous? Know The Best Things To Do In This Historic Coastal Town 

BY  Sibashree Jul 21, 2026

Killinocchi is a place where the sparks of protests are not extinguished completely.  As I am penning this article in July 2026, the arrest of the Tamil rapper Sangeethsan and the protests of the locals condemning the PTA, or Prevention of Terrorism Act, a month back, make me concerned.  The Kilinochchi District Civil Organisations were behind the demonstrations, and the theme was “Let us unite to break the chains around our voices.” In plain sight, Killinochi is a town where paddy fields, temple bells, and war memorials share the same stretch of road. However, if you want to know about the history of this town and understand how it is getting rebuilt after the Civil War, you need to spend some time in Killinochi.  Moreover, of all the places I have covered on my Sri Lanka trips, Vavuniya and Mannar had already told me that the Northern Province holds a different Sri Lanka altogether. Also, Northern Sri Lanka does not sit on any typical bucket list. Kilinochchi is the next chapter of that same story. Kilinochchi: Quick Facts ProvinceNorthern Province, Sri LankaDistrictKilinochchi DistrictDistance from JaffnaAround 330 kmMain HighwayA9 (Kandy-Jaffna Highway)Founded1936, as a colonization settlement for Jaffna's farmersFormer StatusDe facto administrative capital of the LTTE until 2009Main LivelihoodPaddy farming and agricultureBest Time to VisitThe dry season from May to September Where Is Kilinochchi And How Do I Reach It? Kilinochchi is on the A9 Highway that connects Jaffna to Kandy.  I was traveling from Anuradhapura, and I reached Kilinochchi after three hours in a car. After Vavuniya, it was Kilinochchi that Ravi introduced me to.  However, you can travel to Kilinochchi by train and bus.  Traveling By Train  However, if you are traveling from Colombo, you can take the train on the Yal Devi Line continuing to Jaffna.  Overall, it is a train journey of 5-6 hours. This is one of the most beautiful train journeys of Sri Lanka, with the landscape flattening out into dry-zone scrubland somewhere past Vavuniya. 44089 Kankasanthure Night Mail - Moratuwa - Kankesanthurai, 444421 Intercity Express - Mount Lavinia - Kankesanthurai, and 44477 Yal Devi - Colombo Fort - Kanakasanthurai are the trains plying on this route. A ticket for the second-class reserved category will cost LKR 1700, and the ticket price for the AC saloon car will be between LKR 2400 and LKR 3000.  Traveling By Bus  If you are a backpacker, you can also board a Colombo-Jaffna or an Anuradhapura-Jaffna bus.  You will get semi-luxury and premium-luxury bus options on this route, and the travel time will be around 7 hours.  Also, the ticket price will be between LKR 1800 and 3000. What Is The History Of Kilinochchi? The history of Kilinochchi goes back to 1936.  In the same year, Kilinochchi was constructed as part of a colonization scheme meant to ease overcrowding and unemployment in Jaffna.  The farmers came here to take part in paddy cultivation supported by government land grants. However, the recent history of the Sri Lankan Civil War has primarily shaped it today.  Kilinochchi was the de facto administrative capital of the LTTE (Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam) during the final phase of the civil war.  At the same time, Jaffna, with its strong Tamil base, remained under government control.  Then, with the Sri Lankan forces closing in on Kilinochchi in December 2008, the LTTE forced many civilians to flee with them toward Mullaitivu. Thus, the LTTEs used the civilians here as human shields.  However, before fleeing the town, the LTTEs blew up the town's main water tower in an act of scorched-earth destruction, cutting off the town's water supply in an already dry region. Nevertheless, the Sri Lankan army took charge of Kilinochchi on 2nd January 2009.  It was one of the major landmarks toward the end of the Civil War, and it finally ended in May 2009.  After that, Kilinochchi has worked on rebuilding itself.  It now has new water infrastructure, roads, and returning farming communities. Today, it stands as a quiet marker of how a place absorbs a violent past and keeps going. My Day In Kilinochchi Kilinochchi offers a sobering experience, and once you get involved in the history of the Civil War, most of your time will go into pondering and understanding what actually happened.  Nevertheless, here are the highlights of my day in Kilinochchi. 1. The Story Of The Water Tower Ravi first took me to the fallen water tower.  For years, the collapsed remains of the tower bombed by the LTTE in 2008 lay exactly where they fell, fenced off as an informal memorial along the highway. However, in 2020, the structure was finally removed to make space for a new building. While I could not see the fallen tower, it was not difficult for me to visualize the anarchy and destruction.  This was a monument not to victory or grandeur, but to how war strips away the most basic necessities, in this case, clean drinking water in a region where water is already scarce. 2. The Kilinochchi War Memorial The Kilinochchi War Memorial was very close to Kilinochchi Town. It commemorates how the Sri Lankan military recaptured the town in 2009.  I had mixed feelings as I approached the site.  The memorial itself is a straightforward structure offering you the moment of truth.  However, of course, you will interpret the truth depending on which side of the conflict's history you come from. I found a few tourists taking photos of the memorial. However, I spent the time talking to the locals, and I tried to understand what the final months felt like.  3. Elephant Pass The Elephant Pass was just a short distance away from the town of Kilinochchi.  It is a narrow strip of land that connects the mainland to the Jaffna peninsula.  This was one of the most fiercely contested locations throughout the entire civil war, changing hands multiple times between government forces and the LTTE. However, when you visit it today, you will only see a quiet causeway with the Elephant Pass lagoon stretching out on either side. Still, the personnel there will share the details of the war if you approach them.  4. Iranamadu Tank Visiting the Iranamadu Tank was a welcome break after exploring the grim history of civil war in Kilinochchi.  It is one of the largest man-made reservoirs in the region. It was originally built for the water supply to the surrounding paddy fields.  I visited the tank in the late afternoon and spotted local fishermen rowing out onto the water. A few egrets were also picking through the shallows.  5. Chundikulam National Park Chundikulam National Park is a delightful detour if you are visiting Kilinochchi in the winter migratory season.  This wetland hosts large flocks of Greater Flamingos. Furthermore, many other migratory birds pass through the brackish lagoon system in this season.  I did not manage to see the flamingos myself, as I visited outside the migratory window. However, locals I spoke to described early mornings here as one of the best birdwatching experiences in the entire Northern Province. 6. The Local Temples And Kanagapuram Kovil Like the temples in Jaffna, Kilinochchi's Tamil Hindu identity shows up in its temples or kovils. I stopped briefly at Kanagapuram Kovil, a modest temple with local visitors. Also, don’t forget to visit the Kaala Vairavar Temple when you are in Kilinochchi.  7. The Kilinochchi Market Before heading out of town, I walked through the local market, where vendors sold fresh produce, dried fish, and simple Tamil snacks. It was a good reminder that beneath the weight of Kilinochchi's recent history, everyday life here continues much like anywhere else in rural Sri Lanka. What To Eat In Kilinochchi The food in Kilinochchi has the same Tamil roots as the food in Jaffna.  It was a great experience trying Thosai and Idiyappam for breakfast and dinner in a rural setup.  Also, the coconut sambal and sambar were great and spicier than what we are used to having in South India.  Kothu Roti, a chopped roti stir-fried with vegetables, egg, and spices, is another filling option for lunch. Also, you cannot miss the Jaffna-Style Crab Curry. It is a spicy and tangy curry. Pittu, steamed rice flour with grated coconut, is another Tamil staple worth trying here. I ate at a small, no-frills eatery near the town center, and it remains one of the more memorable simple meals of my entire Sri Lanka trip. Where To Stay In Kilinochchi Accommodation options are limited in Kilinochchi, and you will only find budget and mid-range guesthouses and small hotels in the town center. So, if you are planning to spend a night in Kilinochchi, expect modest, rural hospitality.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Kilinochchi? May to September, or the dry season, is the most ideal time for a visit to Kilinochchi.  However, remember that the Northern Province of Sri Lanka is punishingly hot at midday, irrespective of the season of the visit.  Furthermore, if birdwatching at Chundikulam National Park is on your list, plan your visit around the winter migratory season instead.

BY  Sibashree Jul 22, 2026

My trip to Sri Lanka crossed many dramatic turns, especially in the Northern part of the country.  With Vavuniya feeling like a crossroads rather than a stopover and Mannar being a high point where the wind never stops, the next stop was Mullaitivu.  Mullaitivu was a name that I had only read about in the news archives.  Mullaitivu is even in the news today as the people of Keppapilavu have been protesting for days now for the return of their ancestral lands.  Thurairasa Ravikaran and Sivagnanam Shritharan, two Tamil parliamentarians, have shown their support and solidarity to this protest.  Nevertheless, while Trincomalee beaches and the rich culture of Jaffna dominate the conversations about Northern Sri Lanka, Mullaitivu surfaced as a place talking about the past.  In this article, I will talk about my two days in Mullaitivu, from the drive in to the lagoon that ended a war, and why I think this coastline deserves more than a passing mention on a map. Why Mullaitivu Almost Stayed Off My List The day I spent at Vavuniya, the guesthouse caretaker there, a soft-spoken man named Selvam, was the one who first brought up Mullaitivu. About Mullaitivu, he mentioned,  “The beaches were empty, the lagoon was calm, and the town had not yet learned how to perform for tourists.” This stirred me, as most travel forums I had checked mentioned Mullaitivu as a former war zone with a nice coastline and not much infrastructure. While this is not false, this is only a fragmented picture of Mullaitivu. How I Reached Mullaitivu From Vavuniya, I took A34 to reach Mullaitivu. It was a distance of around 54 kilometers, and I reached within an hour and a half.  The road narrowed past Puthukkudiyiruppu, cutting through scrubland, paddy fields, and the occasional stretch of forest before the land flattens out toward the coast. How Mullaitivu Felt At First Sight?  Mullaitivu was once a small fishing harbor.  It was a small fishing harbor and a stop for sailing vessels moving goods between Colombo and Jaffna in the early twentieth century.  Today, it also remains a fishing town, unbothered and unhurried by outsiders.  As I entered the town, my driver, Ravi, pointed out the old lighthouse. It was built in 1896, and it has lost its original iron frame.  So, when you visit the lighthouse today, you can only find a faded signboard.  Nevertheless, I spent my first evening walking along Mullaitivu Beach.  Fishing boats had gathered there, forming neat rows, and the nets were drying on the sand.  Also, it was most delightful to find children playing cricket on the sand with a tennis ball.  Being from the country where cricket is a religion, I joined them. We bonded big time talking over big names such as Kumar Sangakkara and Kusal Mendis.  A few meters away from them, an elderly woman was mending a fishing net.  It felt like a scene from a Sanjeewa Pushpakumara movie. Like his films, Flying Fish and The Venishing, it was like a scene depicting the raw portrayal of survival.  What Are The Places To Visit In Mullaitivu?  I was not prepared for the amount of Civil War history Mullaitivu offered me.  Also, the birds and the sanctuary where the beach and lagoon meet allowed me to unwind with so many things going on in my head about life during and after the Civil War in Sri Lanka.  Nanthikadal Lagoon: Where The War Ended At a glance, the Nanthikadal Lagoon looks like a shallow, sand-fringed body of water. It is on the northeastern edge of the district. Small rivers feed it, and it finally opens into the Indian Ocean.  When I reached the lagoon, I found some egrets standing motionless in the shallows. Then, a kingfisher dropped into the water and came up empty. Ravi then took me to an old man, a local school teacher called Rajan. He narrated the entire story of the Nanthikadal Lagoon to me.  What Happened At Nanthikadal Lagoon  The 26-year Civil War of Sri Lanka ended at Nanthikadal Lagoon in May 2009.  Here, the government forces cornered the last LTTE fighters. The group's leader, Velupillai Prabhakaran, was also killed.  In the weeks before that, civilians had been pushed into a shrinking strip of land along this same lagoon. They were between the fighting lines. In a report published on 17th January 2009, The Guardian wrote,  “International concern is intensifying over the fate of around 350,000 civilians trapped in a rapidly shrinking rebel-controlled pocket of land in Sri Lanka's north east, as the military steps up its campaign to end the civil war by crushing the Tamil Tiger forces. There is no specific count of the number of human casualties in these final months. A 2011 UN Panel of Experts report stated that credible sources estimated as many as 40,000 civilian deaths. Another report, published by The Times (UK) on 29th May 2009 based on confidential UN documents the paper obtained, reported that civilian deaths in the no-fire zone rose sharply from late April. The deaths averaged around 1,000 killed per day until May 19, 2009. Thus, it had put the total civilian death toll at over 20,000. (Source: Al Jazeera).  The Sri Lankan Government has shown a much lower figure.   However, in the UN Rights Council: Act on Sri Lanka Report published on 13th September 2011, Brad Adams, the Asia director at Human Rights Watch, mentioned,  “When a UN Panel of Experts report concludes up to 40,000 civilians died amid war crimes, the Human Rights Council should feel compelled to act. The council should order a full international investigation – anything less would be a shameful abdication of responsibility.” How Nanthikadal Lagoon Looks Back At Those Days Every Year Tamil families gather at Mullivaikkal, close to the lagoon, on 19th May every year to remember relatives lost in the final days.  They light lamps and plant coconut saplings in their memory.  Standing at the water's edge, with fishermen casting nets a short distance away, I found it hard to reconcile the stillness in front of me with what this ground had witnessed. The Victory Monument, The Museum, And The Submarines The Puthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument was on the Paranthan-Mullaitivu road, which was a short drive from the lagoon.  It was unveiled in 2019, and it depicts a soldier carrying the national flag.  Furthermore, the surrounding pond and lilies represent the ocean around the island and the nation itself.  An adjoining war museum displays weapons, vehicles, and vessels used during the conflict's final phase. Entry to the museum was free, and it remains open from 8 AM to 5 PM.  Also nearby, there were rusted hulls, and it was the site where the government troops discovered an abandoned Sea Tiger boatyard in 2009.  It is where the LTTE's naval wing used to build improvised submarines and semi-submersible craft.  I want to be honest about something here. This is a site that different communities in Sri Lanka read very differently, and I do not think a two-day visit qualifies anyone to settle that.  What I can say is that visiting both the lagoon and the monument on the same day gave me a fuller, more uncomfortable picture than either would have alone. The Kokkilai Lagoon:  Where The Coastline Turns Peaceful Again On the second afternoon, I drove out to Kokkilai Lagoon.  It was a wetland sanctuary around 25 kilometers southeast of town.  It has been a protected bird sanctuary since 1951, and I could spot pelicans, herons, and occasional flamingos moving along the shallows.  The crowd of birdwatchers was small, and the overall ambiance was quiet.  Chundikulam Further along the coast, Chundikulam allowed me to relax. It was a sanctuary with no visitors.  I quietly cherished the view of the beach and lagoon blurring into one uninterrupted stretch of sand and water. Coming back from Chundikulam, I had some spicy crab curry and rice at a roadside stall. It was similar to what I had in Jaffna, but it tasted even better.  Ravi said, “It was the only reason to end the day here.”  My Two Days In Mullaitivu: The Itinerary  Day TimeActivities/Places to VisitDay 1MorningDrive from Vavuniya via the A34MiddayCheck-in and Walk through Mullaitivu TownAfternoonNanthikadal Lagoon and the CausewayEveningMullaitivu Beach at SunsetDay 2MorningPuthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument and War MuseumMiddaySea Tiger Submarine YardAfternoonKokkilai Lagoon BirdwatchingEveningChundikulam Coastline and Seafood Dinner Mullaitivu: A Quiet Place That Asks You To Listen  Away from the grandeur of Kandy and Colombo, Mullaitivu is a place that simply exists. It tells the stories of human survival, and it is still recovering and fishing despite the stains and the lives lost in the Civil War.  So, if you are already tracing the north of Sri Lanka through Vavuniya, Kilinochchi, or Mannar, I would not leave Mullaitivu off the route.  Just go with the understanding that this is not a beach add-on. It is a place that holds two very different stories at once, and it does not owe you a tidy conclusion to either.

BY  Sibashree Mar 23, 2026

Hiriketiya Beach is a place that can disrupt your travel plans completely.  You may arrive with plans for a two-night stay and end up spending 3 weeks developing a routine of mornings spent surfing, drinking coconut coffee, and watching the sun set down on the jungle.  This tucked-away cove in Sri Lanka’s southern coast, nicknamed by its community of surfers and digital nomads as "Hiri", is a textbook example of tropical aesthetics.  The cove is well-formed, with water that is surrounded by palm trees, and has a jungle so dense behind it that you will hear monkeys scurrying through the tree tops of your surfboard as they find their way there.  Hiri feels like a secret to be shared, but is just being revealed to people in the surrounding towns of Weligama and Mirissa.  Hiriketiya has developed to become a more sophisticated version of Weligama and Mirissa. The "vibe" of Hiriketiya is not just another phrase used by hipsters. It is the currency used by locals. Here is more about this beautiful coastal gem in Sri Lanka.  The Evolution Of Hiriketiya Beach: Why You Need To Go Now Hiriketiya has experienced an incredible transformation over the last few years.  Only a few years ago, this sleepy little fishing village had only a few guesthouses and one small roti shop. It is quite similar to the beaches in Jaffna in that way.  Now, it's become a vibrant hub, and even though it has lost some of its "untouched" charm. Moreover, this infusion of new energy has produced world-class specialty coffee shops, beautiful state-of-the-art Yoga studios, and a co-working scene. But despite these rapid changes, the spirit of this village remains.  The Surf At Hirikeya Beach: A Wave For Every Soul The horseshoe shape and the unique geography of the Hirikeya Beach make it ideal for every type of surfer.  Here is a quick breakdown. Surf LocationDetails The Beach Break (Right Side)- Beginner-Friendly- Sandy Bottom- Gentle WavesThe Middle- Ideal for Longboarders- Offers a Mellow RideThe Point Break (Left Side)- Ideal for Professionals- Shallow Reef Board rentals are standardized at 1000 LKR per hour.  If the Hirikeya Beach is very busy, you can go 3.5 km east and find Kudawella Beach.  Where Is Hirikeya Beach? How To Reach It?  Hiriketiya is located off the main highway along the coast, about one mile away from the town of Dickwella.  Since Hiriketiya is not on a major transit route, you will have to use Dickwella as your transit point. 1. Traveling To Hiriketiya Beach From Colombo The best way to get there is by taking the train from Colombo Fort to Matara, which takes approximately four hours.  From Matara, you can take a local bus to Dickwella or take a tuk-tuk taxi. You can also take a highway express bus from Colombo to Matara and arrive in about three hours. 2. Traveling To Hiriketiya Beach From Ella You can catch the #31 bus at the intersection of the Ella-Passara Road as you travel through tea country.  It is approximately four hours to the coast on a winding road. Just tell the conductor you want to go to Dickwella. 3. Traveling To Hiriketiya Beach From Arugam Bay If you are traveling from the East Coast surf to the surf in the South, there is a direct bus leaving from Pottuvil every day around 6:30 AM, arriving at Dickwella approximately six hours later. What Are The Things To Do At Hirikeya Beach? (Beyond Surfing) Hiri has just as much gravitational force to attract chill seekers. So, here are the things to do beyond surfing.  1. Walk To Blue Beach Island If you're looking for a little adventure, try the 2.5km (1.5-mile) walk to Nilwella.  You'll be walking through peaceful local neighborhoods when you find a beautiful natural sandbar that links the mainland with a small island.  Moreover, walking over a sandbar with breaking waves on both sides of you is something you will remember long after leaving Hiri.  Also, it is the best place to watch the sunset. 2. Sip In Style At Smoke And Bitters Believe it or not, one of the 50 Best Bars in Asia is hidden deep in a coconut grove.  Furthermore, the menu at Smoke and Bitters is based on the smokehouse method of cooking, using local Sri Lankan ingredients with cooking methods from around the globe.  Moreover, you must try the smoked harissa pumpkin and the pork ribs as they are WOW!!  Every cocktail created at Smoke and Bitters is a work of art. The price of a drink here, compared to what you would expect to pay in Sri Lanka, may seem high. However, when you want to treat yourself, there is no better place to go. 3. Become A Culinary Master With Rosie Rosie's cooking class experience is the ultimate rite of passage in Hiri.  While she prepares the dishes during your cooking class, you will also hear many personal stories of her life and how she made some special Sri Lankan spice combinations. Moreover, it costs 6000 LKR, and the 4-hour feast is the ultimate attraction.  The Digital Nomad And Yoga Scene At Hirikeya Beach  Hiriketiya has become a cornerstone of the "work-from-anywhere" lifestyle.  Places like Dots Bay House and Salty Pelican provide the infrastructure (and the caffeine) needed to hit deadlines. Moreover, when it comes to physical and mental well-being, Arise is unparalleled.  So, they provide a variety of classes to choose from, including Muay Thai, ecstatic dance, and Reiki, as well as many types of Vinyasa yoga.  Additionally, their Salt House location offers stunning rooftop yoga classes where you can do yoga while listening to the waves below. Where to Stay In Hiriketiya? Hiriketiya offers a versatile range of accommodation. Here are some places you can try.  1. Salt House  This upscale beach hotel has a boutique feel.  Located 5 minutes away from the beach, the hotel has spacious, minimalistic rooms opening directly to its central pool and open-air cafe.  Moreover, on-site yoga classes every day attract those interested in wellness. Room rates begin at about 21000 LKD per night. 2. Dots Bay House  Located next to the surfing area, 'Dots', the centre of Hiri's social scene, offers accommodation options ranging from dormitories to high-end private rooms.  Moreover, facilities include an on-site co-working space, swimming pool, and popular bar which features the best live music acts in town. Prices start at approximately 7000 LKD per night. 3. Hiriketiya White House  A charming, family-owned guesthouse hidden away in the jungle, offering an excellent option for visitors who want authentic experiences at affordable prices.  Also, the double rooms come with beautiful contemporary bathrooms and balconies where guests can enjoy watching monkeys play overhead. Moreover, the prices start from about 5500 LKD per night.  When To Visit Hiriketiya Beach? Due to offshore winds and consistent swell during the "High Season", November to April is the best time for surfers to be out on the ocean.  Moreover, December to February is the busiest time of year, with hot and dry weather as well as a lot of activity happening around town.  However, there are two downsides. The first is that accommodation prices rise significantly, and the second is that line-ups at the ocean can be extremely crowded. Where To Eat In Hiriketiya? As an enthusiast of TheLowDownUnder Travel and genuine experiences, I felt compelled to sample the local cuisine at Hirikeya. So, here are a few recommendations for places to check out. 1. Lemon Grass Café Considered the benchmark for rice and curry in Sri Lanka, this family-run establishment is modest yet impactful.  Moreover, for 1000 LKR, you’ll enjoy a generous array of at least four different vegetable curries, rice, and dessert, with unlimited refills. 2. Kingsley’s Kitchen Another gem in the area, Kingsley is a well-known figure in the village who serves outstanding home-cooked meals.  Dinner operates on a pre-order basis, so be sure to stop by during the day to reserve your meal.  Moreover, it’s one of the most budget-friendly spots in the bay, with a vegetarian curry priced at 750 LKR. 3. Dahami Situated at the Dickwella intersection, this is where the locals dine. Furthermore, it’s a straightforward buffet offering a mountain of rice and curry for just 450 LKR. Moreover, for those seeking specialty cafés and a beach atmosphere, options like Duni’s Hoppers Café, MOND Café, and La Playa are worth considering.