Ahangama: Why Is It More Than Just Another Beach Town In Sri Lanka? 

BY  Sibashree Aug 8, 2026

I got the whiff of Beruwala even before I reached it.  While Bentota is a glossier neighbor in the south, Beruwala seemed more significant to me.  I found it more appealing because it once again highlighted the inclusive nature of Sri Lanka.  If Jaffna is the hub of Hindu temples and Tamil Culture, Beruwala is the place where Islam first took root in Sri Lanka.  Also, as a coastal town, it has been welcoming pilgrims, traders, and sailors for more than a thousand years now.  All these make Beruwala an important spot on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka. In this article, I will discuss my experience there, Beruwala Beach, things to do, and more.  Beruwala: A Harbor With A Long Memory  Beruwala had the first multi-day fishing boat launching yard in Sri Lanka on 11th June, 2026.  It will promote the boat manufacturing industry of Sri Lanka. The boat manufacturing industry will be a leading export sector in the economic development of Sri Lanka in the future.  While this is a new feather added to the crown of Beruwala, it already has a long history as a harbor.  The name Beruwala itself has a Sinhalese origin, meaning “Lowering the Sail.” So, it functioned as a national anchorage since anyone even knew about it.  According to local history, the Arab traders landed here in the 8th century. They used this sheltered bay as a stopover on their trade routes across the Indian Ocean.  They came for gems, spices, and pearls, and some of them stayed. The Settlement Of The Moor Community  The first wave of settlement in Beruwala marked the beginning of the Sri Lankan Moor community. This community, or the Sri Lankan Muslims, can trace back their origin to the early Arab arrivals. Over the centuries, many intermarriages happened, and the community thrived.  Today, Beruwala remains one of the cultural centers of that community, and you feel it the moment you walk through town. You will hear the call to prayer drifting over the harbor, halal eateries lining the main road, and a rhythm of life that is different from most coastal areas in the stretch.  What Are The Things To Do In Beruwala?  I spent my first morning at the fishing harbor, the heart of the town.  If you can be here before 7 AM, you will see outrigger canoes and small trawlers come in loaded with the night's catch. Also, fishermen wearing wide-brimmed hats haul their nets while gulls circle overhead.  Yes, it is chaotic, but nothing is staged here. That authenticity or rawness stays with you.  Furthermore, the harbor of Beruwala is the main supplier of fresh seafood across the region. However, to be that, the fishermen did not have to leave everything old behind.  From the looks of the boats, they look like they have not been changed for generations. So, watching the fishermen sailing or working in the boats felt like being at a museum that preserves the working identity of this coastal town.   While you can spend an entire day at the fishing harbor, there are many attractions in Beruwala. So, let’s discuss the things to do.  1. A Visit To The Kechimalai Mosque And The Headland From the harbor, I took a short walk to Kechimalai Mosque. It is on the northern promontory where the earliest Arab-Muslim settlers first came ashore, according to local traditions.  There is a little confusion, though, about the origin or age of the mosque. Still, the popular opinion is that it was built between the 11th and 13th centuries.  The mosque has a humble architecture with pale walls, a modest dome, and arched windows facing the sea. Some parts of the mosque further reflect later renovations from the colonial period. Even if you do not want to enter the mosque, you can cherish the view of the harbor and open sea beyond it from the headland.  I was thrilled to know that it was the same vantage point sailors would have used a thousand years ago to judge the weather before setting out.  Moments like this ground you and help you connect with history.  2. Visiting The Masjid Al Abrar  Masjid Al Abrar is very close to the Kechimalai Mosque, and it is one of the oldest mosques in the country.  These two mosques and the smaller mosques scattered through the town carry an Islamic heritage that few other places on this coast can match,  3. Exploring The Beaches My beach experience in Beruwala started with Moragalla Beach. It was just north of the main town.  It won me over with its calmness, and it was uncrowded. So, I could do what I love the most, watching people.  I saw the fishermen working the shallows in the early morning.  The water here is gentle enough for casual swimming and decent snorkeling if you catch it on a clear day. Closer to the hotel strip, the main Beruwala beach stretches out with the kind of golden sand that made this coast famous in the first place. It is more developed, with resorts backing directly onto the shore, but it's still noticeably quieter than Bentota or Hikkaduwa further south.  Watersports In Beruwala Beach  If you are after watersports, this is also where you'll find operators offering jet skiing, parasailing, and diving trips out toward the reefs.  Beruwala and Bentota together form one of the more established watersports hubs on the southwest coast. Just offshore sits Barberyn Island, marked by its lighthouse. This makes for a nice reference point if you're out on the water or just watching the horizon from a beachfront restaurant at sunset. 4. Exploring The Food, Markets And China Fort Legacy  Beruwala has the best seafood in Sri Lanka, and it is tied to the identity of the town.  I had some of the best deviled prawns of my entire trip at a small place a few minutes' walk from the fish market. Furthermore, the fish curry I had here had a prominent presence of tamarind, and it was very different from what I ate in Jaffna and other parts of the north.  Once again, the prawn fritters or Isso wade was a good street-side snack, and you want to just chill and watch the fishermen in action.  5. Knowing Beruwala As A Gem-Trading Hub Beruwala has a famous history of gem trading. The historical landmark of China Fort here was the place from where the gem traders used to operate.  The China Fort Gem Tower still has many jewelry and handicraft shops. You will also find similar shops around the town.  Even if you are not buying something from these shops, you must browse them.  It will be a great experience to know how central trade once was to the town's economy. Reaching Beruwala And Getting Around  Beruwala is just 60 km south of Colombo, and you will find it along the A2 coastal highway.  If you are traveling from Colombo, you can take a car or taxi or travel by bus and train.  1. Reaching Beruwala By Taxi Or Car Despite a distance of just 60 km, a private car rental or taxi service from Colombo to Beruwala will be around LKR 13000.  The higher range can reach around LKR 22000 based on the type of vehicle you are hiring.  Considering the high cost, it is best to combine a trip to Beruwala with other coastal stops.  How To Combine A Trip To Beruwala From Colombo With Other Coastal Stops? Route SegmentApproximate Driving Time (Coastal Road)Best Known ForColombo ➔ Kalutara1 HourStupas and Historic CastlesKalutara ➔ Beruwala20 MinutesFishing Port and Muslim HeritageBeruwala ➔ Bentota10 MinutesJet Skiing and Mangrove River SafariBentota ➔ Kosgoda15 MinutesSea Turtle HatcheriesKosgoda ➔ Hikkaduwa30 MinutesSnorkelingCoral ReefsNightlifeHikkaduwa ➔ Galle35 MinutesColonial Fort ArchitectureShopping  2. Reaching Beruwala By Train If you are traveling from Colombo Fort to Beruwala by train, the journey of around 54.33 km takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes.  Furthermore, the 1st class ticket costs LKR 500, the second-class ticket costs LKR 300, and the third-class ticket costs LKR 140.  3. Beruwala By Bus  You can get buses from the Bastian Mawatha Terminal of Combo regularly to Galle. These buses run along the A2 Highway.  The buses take around 2 hours to complete the journey. Also, the ticket price for regular bus services is LKR 235, and the ticket prices for AC buses are LKR 390.  4. Getting Around Beruwala  Tuk-tuks are the best option to explore Beruwala and other nearby coastal areas. You can also reserve a tuk-tuk for half-day sightseeing.  The cost is slightly higher here, and the amount will be around LKR 4000.  Why Beruwala Is Absolutely Worth It  A coastal town with a history of 1000 years! If that is the tagline for Beruwala, it is absolutely worth a visit.  Also, it is a working fishing harbor and a stretch of genuinely good beach all sit within walking distance of each other. So, if you are planning a southwest coast itinerary, don't just let Beruwala be the town your bus passes through on the way to Bentota or Galle. Give it a morning, at least.

BY  Sibashree Aug 29, 2026

Everyone mentions elephants when talking about Maduru Oya. However, for me, it was different, though they were everywhere around me.   It was the silence that grabbed my attention first.   The week with crowded safari queues at Minneriya and Kaudulla was hectic. So, when I reached the Maduru Oya National Park, it felt like stepping into an empty room from a busy street.   There was no convoy of jeeps kicking up dust or radio chatter between drivers racing to the same sighting.  Just tall grass, a wide blue reservoir, and the low rumble of our jeep's engine!  Maduru Oya is in the dry zone of Sri Lanka, and it is around 314 kilometers from Colombo. Furthermore, it stretches over Polonnaruwa, Badulla, and Ampara districts.  It became a national park in 1983 as part of the Mahaweli Development Programme.   The Programme aimed to protect the catchment area of the Maduru Oya reservoir and four other tanks that feed the region's irrigation network.  However, you do not remember all these details once you are inside the national park. You have your eyes set on a herd of elephants wading through the shallows with the reservoir stretching out behind them.  Maduru Oya At A Glance  Location Polonnaruwa, Badulla and Ampara districts, dry zone  Distance from Colombo About 314 km (roughly 5–6 hours by road)  Area 58,850 hectares  Declared a national park 9 November 1983  Best time to visit March to September (dry season, better water-point sightings)  Known for Elephant herds, Vedda heritage, ancient Buddhist ruins  Nearest hub Kuda Sigiriya / Mahiyanganaya area  Hours 6 AM to 6 PM (The Ticket Counter Closes at 4 PM.)   Why Maduru Oya Doesn't Feel Like Sri Lanka's Other Parks Fifteen percent of Maduru Oya is water, and 85% is landmass. This ratio shapes the characteristics of the park.   The reservoir and its surrounding wetlands draw the following birds and animals.  Grey Pelicans  Sea Eagles  Painted Storks  Elephants  Also, the mix of open grassland, scrub, and water made every drive here feel more layered than the flatter areas.   Furthermore, you will notice patches of tall secondary grass across the park due to the shifting of cultivation over the decades.   Our guide kept reminding us that these are the places where elephants like to disappear. It happened twice or thrice!  We spotted an entire herd of six or seven animals, and suddenly they were gone.    The park's boundaries lie in the low hills stretching from the Lunugala ridges.  Also, to the southwest, a rocky mountain range spreads across roughly eight kilometres. It gives the drive some visual relief from the flat dry-zone plains most visitors associate with Sri Lanka's east.  Wildlife: Elephants First, Everything Else After  Maduru Oya is famous for its elephant population. Herds of elephants here are really large, and once you pass the tall grass, you will get long and easy-to-watch stretches without the sight of another vehicle.   Along with elephants, you will also find the following wildlife here.  Leopards  Sloth Bears  Sambar  Spotted Deer  Wild Boar  Wild Buffalo  Toque Macaques  Purple-Faced Leaf Monkeys  Moreover, if you are on a night-adjacent drive, you can spot nocturnal slender loris here.   Reptile sightings are common too, with water monitors and the occasional mugger crocodile sunning near the reservoir's edge.  A Delight For Birders   Birders have plenty to work with here, as close to a hundred species of birds call it home. Some species commonly spotted here are:  Woolly-Necked Stork  Openbill  Painted Stork  Racket-Tailed Drongo  Sri Lanka Junglefowl  Yellow-Fronted Barbet  Spurfowl  My trip has been mammal-heavy so far. So, Maduru Oya was a good place to slow down and let the birdlife catch up.  Ruins The Safari Jeep Doesn't Usually Stop For  Maduru Oya also surprised me with the amount of history it stores inside.   It has a scattering of ancient Buddhist ruins, shrines, hermitages, statues, and dagobas concentrated around areas like Henanigala, Kudawella, Gurukumbura, Uluketangoda, and Weerapokuna.  Some of the Brahmi rock inscriptions here date back to the 1st to 3rd centuries BC.  Also, an ancient sluice gate uncovered during construction of the Maduru Oya Dam is believed to date to around the 6th century BC.   Most standard safari drives skim past these.  If ruins interest you, mention it to your guide or driver before you set out, since a slightly different route can take you closer to them.  The Vedda Community   The park also sits within Vedda country.   Sri Lanka's indigenous Vedda community, believed by tradition to descend from King Vijaya and Queen Kuweni, live in and around the reserve.  Some tours can arrange a respectful visit to learn about their way of life. I would treat this the way I would treat any community visit.  Go through a reputable operator, and let the encounter be led by the community rather than treated as a photo stop.  Planning Your Visit To Maduru Oya Mahiyanganaya, Polonnaruwa, or the Kuda Sigiriya area are the common base areas for a visit to Maduru Oya.   So, the park can easily fit into your itinerary as a side trip if you are already covering the Cultural Triangle.   There is no public transport into the park itself. So, you will need a hired vehicle or a pre-arranged safari jeep.  Most tour operators based in Habarana, Sigiriya, or Polonnaruwa can put together a half- or full-day excursion.  Safaris And Costs  A half-day safari jeep, roughly four hours, typically runs somewhere in the LKR 7,500–10,000 range.  However, this varies by operator and season and rarely includes the park's own entrance fee, which you pay separately at the gate.   It is worth booking your jeep a day or two ahead during the dry season, when demand picks up.   I would also second the advice I heard from more than one local guide.  Go with a small group. Maduru Oya rewards patience and quiet, and a crowded jeep makes both harder to come by.  Entry Fee  Entry Fee and Charges to the Park How Much To Pay  Local Adults  LKR 60  Local Children (6-12 years)  LKR 30 Local Student  LKR 20 Local Children (below 6 years)  Free Local Group Fee (per vehicle)  LKR 400 Foreign Adults  USD 12 Foreign Children (6-12 years)  USD 6  Adults from Foreign SAARC Countries    USD 10  Children from Foreign SAARC Countries (6-12 years) USD 5 SAARC Country Children (below 6 years)  Free of Cost Foreign SAARC Visitor Group Fee (per vehicle)   USD 10   Taxes on Total Cost  18%  Entrance Fee per vehicle LKR 300  What Is The Best Time To Visit Maduru Oya National Park? March through September is the sweet spot to visit Maduru Oya National Park.   It is the dry season when wildlife concentrates around the designated water points of the park. So, sightings are more predictable.   Early morning drives are cooler and calmer, and as with most Sri Lankan parks, the animals are noticeably more active before the heat of midday sets in.  Where Does Maduru Oya National Park Fit In A Sri Lanka Itinerary? Maduru Oya is not a park I would build an entire trip around.  However, it is an excellent addition if you are already in the Cultural Triangle and want a safari experience without the crowds of Yala or Minneriya.   Pair it with Polonnaruwa's ruins in the morning and a Maduru Oya drive in the late afternoon. You can also use it as a quiet counterpoint after the more chaotic parks further south.

BY  Sibashree Aug 21, 2026

Chilaw drew my attention with the smell of drying fish at the harbor. As I reached the fishing town, I heard a low chant drifting out of a Shiva temple.  Chilaw, which almost a year back had a Korea FAO Sustainable and Innovative Fisheries and Aquaculture Programme (KOFAF) to boost the shrimp aquaculture of Sri Lanka, is a fishing town first.  Then, it is a pilgrimage site and almost as an afterthought, a beach destination.  Overall, it felt so unpolished and real in a way that many famous coastal stops in Sri Lanka have lost for a long time. How To Reach Chilaw, Sri Lanka And Get Around?  Chilaw is around 52.9 km away from the Bandaranaike International Airport. By road, the journey is around 1.5 hours to 2 hours.  The town's own railway station is about 3 kilometres from the centre, with regular services connecting to Colombo along the coastal line. ModeEstimated Time From ColomboApproximate Cost (LKR)NotesCar / Taxi2 Hours8000-15000(Based on Vehicle Type)Most FlexibleEasiest Way to Combine Chilaw with Anawilundawa and Marawila in One LoopUber2 HoursUber Go Intercity: 12016Uber Sedan: Intercity: 12629UberXL Intercity: ₹16062(Source: Uber.com) Best for First-timers.Safer for Solo, Women Travelers. Train (Colombo Fort–Puttalam line)Around 2.5 to 3 HoursThird Class Tickets: 180Second Class Tickets: 400First Class Tickets: 750(Source: Sri Lankan Railways.)The Station is roughly 3 km from the Town CentreA Tuk-Tuk Covers the Last StretchBus2–2.5 Hours150-300Regular Services along the Coastal RouteIt is the Cheapest Option Once you reach Chilaw, you can move around in tuk-tuks. From the town center, you can take a short ride to the fish market and near St. Mary's Church. You can even ferry to Anawilundawa and back after a half-day trip.  However, here, I had to negotiate a lot with the drivers. You must also fix the price upfront so that they do not end up adding more to the price during the trip.  What Are The Top Attractions In Chilaw?  Chilaw does not offer a resort trip like Bentota or Hikkaduwa. It mostly has simple guesthouses as accommodations.  Also, if you want to focus on the quieter beach experience, you can stay in the larger properties in Marawila.  Still, Chilaw is not like a typical touristy or bucket-list destination, and here are the places I visited during my stay.  1. Munneswaram Temple Like the Pancha Bhoota Sthals in India, Sri Lanka also has its five ancient Ishwarams dedicated to Lord Shiva.  Munneswaram is one of them.  The temple is a complex of five temples, dedicated to Shiva, Ganesha, Ayyanayake, Kali, and, notably, a shrine to the Buddha as well.  This temple once again reminded me that the religious traditions of Sri Lanka have always been inclusive. Also, they have often overlapped with each other, rather than staying separate.  Why Is The Munneswaram Temple So Special?  The temple has a mythological association with the Ramayana. It is said that Lord Ramachandra worshipped Lord Shiva here for penance after killing Ravana, who was an ardent Shiva devotee and a Brahman.  Along with the mythological connection, the temple also stands out with its ambiance. As I entered the temple, the incense smoke rose over the Dravidian-style gopuram.  Also, there was a practiced calm even if the priests and devotees moved between the shrines.  However, the temple bustles with energy and human presence during the annual Munneswaram festival.  It is usually held in August, and the entire town seems to reorganise itself around the procession. 2. Chilaw Lagoon And The Sand Spits Chilaw picks its own rhythm from the lagoon. It is fringed by sixteen species of mangrove and reaches close to four metres at its deepest point before opening into the Indian Ocean. I took a late-afternoon boat out with a local fisherman who moonlights as a guide.  I spotted egrets lifting off the mangrove roots, and the occasional splash of a mullet. Also, with absolutely no other tourists in sight, it was the most peaceful 1 hour in Chilaw.  The lagoon isn't just scenic. It is a working fishery that supports well over a thousand families in the area, and you feel that livelihood everywhere. I saw the nets drying along the banks to the small jetties where boats are unloaded each morning.  Nearby, the Chilaw sand spits offer a quieter, more unusual landscape for birdwatchers, with shifting sandbanks that host wading birds you won't easily spot elsewhere on this coast. Regarding the charges, you have to negotiate directly with a fisherman at the jetty rather than book through a formal operator. My boat ride cost me LKR 500.   So, this is still very much an informal, word-of-mouth arrangement, and that is why there will be a lot of negotiations regarding the trip duration and the charges.  3. Anawilundawa Wetland Sanctuary If you are staying in Chilaw, do not skip a half-day trip to Anawilundawa, located between Chilaw and Puttalam.  This 1400 hectares area is a Ramsar Site, and it has three distinct ecosystems. You will find a  mangrove swamp, coastal saltwater belt, and freshwater lakes. Also, the biodiversity numbers are amazing. 150 Bord Species 20 Mammal Species 70 Types of Butterflies Moreover, half of the freshwater fish species in Sri Lanka call Anawilundawa Wetland Sanctuary their home.  I made a mistake by not taking a guide with me for the wetland visit.  A local birder pointed out species from the boat that I would have completely missed on my own, including a painted stork colony that was, frankly, worth the whole detour. If birdwatching is even a mild interest, hire a guide at the entrance.  It is inexpensive and transforms the visit. The entry is free, and the guide cost will be around LKR 1500 for two hours. Also, the sanctuary remains open from 6 AM to 6 PM.  4. Faith Along The Coast: Churches And Kovils Home to the Munneswaram Temple, Chilaw also harbors a Catholic heritage.  The St. Mary's Church in the town centre is a prominent example, and its architecture and quiet courtyard make it worth a stop even outside service hours.  A short drive away in Thalawila, St. Anne's Church draws thousands of pilgrims each July for its annual feast, one of the larger Catholic gatherings on this stretch of coast, complete with processions and all-night vigils. What struck me most, wandering between kovils, churches, and small unnamed shrines tucked down side streets, was how unremarkable this coexistence felt to the people living it. Nobody made a point of it.  It was simply how the town worked. 5. Beaches, Toddy Taverns, And The Fish Market Chilaw beaches are not the typical postcard frames you will find on the southern coast.  Silver Beach, the most prominent among them, is right in town. I loved an early evening walk there.  Also, nearby Marawila offers a longer, quieter stretch of sand if you are willing to drive twenty minutes north. For a real sense of the town, though, skip the beach and get to the Chilaw fish market before 7 AM.  It was loud, slippery underfoot, and completely unstaged. Furthermore, when the boats came in, auctioneers shouted prices, and vendors were already frying fresh catch on the spot.  I ended up having a breakfast of string hoppers and coconut sambol from a stall two feet from the water, and it remains one of the best meals of the trip. Later, I visited one small family-run toddy tavern. It served fresh fermented palm sap alongside coconut-based snacks.  It was strong, and I just took a few sips. Though it is a slice of daily Chilaw life, it is not for someone who is not used to it.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Chilaw?  Being on the west coast, Chilaw follows a different rhythm than the south or east. SeasonMonthsConditionsDry SeasonDecember–MarchSunny and low-humidity weather conditions are the best for lagoon trips and wetland walks.ShoulderApril, NovemberTransitional months offer fewer crowds, and the weather can be mixed.Southwest MonsoonMay–OctoberHeavier rain makes birdwatching and boating harder to plan around.Munneswaram FestivalUsually AugustThe town reorganises around the temple procession.So, it is worth timing a visit around. Combining Chilaw With Nearby Stops Route SegmentApprox. Driving TimeBest Known ForColombo to Chilaw2 hoursMunneswaram Temple, fish marketChilaw to Anawilundawa30 minutesWetland sanctuary, birdwatchingChilaw to Marawila20 minutesQuieter beach stretchChilaw to Puttalam45 minutesPuttalam Lagoon, salt pansPuttalam to Wilpattu National Park30–45 minutesLeopard sightings, natural "villu" lakes This makes Chilaw a natural half-day or overnight anchor for a longer west-coast loop rather than a single-purpose day trip. Why Chilaw Is Worth It Chilaw is not a destination that announces itself.  There is no single landmark that makes it onto every Sri Lanka itinerary, no beach that dominates Instagram feeds.  What it offers instead is texture. It has a working fish market, a thousand-year-old temple complex, mangrove lagoons, and a religious diversity that's lived rather than performed.  If you are the kind of traveller who would rather stumble into a real town than tick off a famous one, Chilaw is worth far more than the quick pass-through I originally planned.