When Lonely Planet names Jaffna one of the 25 best cities to visit in 2026, it becomes a celebration of Jaffna’s culture and heritage. It is the spiritual heartbeat of the Tamil culture, and temples such as the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil serve as the epicenter of the local community.
Also, during my visit to Jaffna, I found the Hindu temples there similar yet different from South Indian temples.
From the look of them, I could tell that there was something inherently Dravidian about them. However, the Jaffna temples have a wide use of palmyra wood instead of granite or bricks of the South Indian temples.
Also, the temples in Jaffna, the spiritual and social anchors of the community, are more eclectic in nature compared to the South Indian temples. It is the intense spirituality that makes them so special.
I shared a beautiful experience at Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil in my Jaffna Sri Lanka Travel Guide. It is about how a priest offered me sweets out of 1000s of devotees present there.
Overall, these Hindu temples in Northern Srilanka are places to worship, appreciate architectural beauty, and celebrate the Tamil culture.
In this Jaffna temple guide, I will talk about the major temples of Jaffna, their history, significance, hours, festivals, and more.
What Are The Top Hindu Temples To Visit In Jaffna, Sri Lanka?
The men entering the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil were bare-chested. Now, I am familiar with such customs, being from India. But I saw some travelers being uncomfortable around it.
Probably, they only go bare-bodied in public when hitting the best beaches in Jaffna. So, taking their shirts off for a temple visit was weird for them.
All the temples in Jaffna are associated with such customs, stories, history, and spiritual significance. Let’s talk about them in detail and know why you must include them in your Jaffna travel itinerary.
1. Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil (The Icon)
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, with Lord Murugan as the presiding deity, is the most prominent religious landmark in Jaffna, Sri Lanka.
Lord Murugan is the God of valor, eternal youth, and the destruction of ignorance. The Vel or spear in his hand stands for divine wisdom.
He has six faces, which represent the five senses and the mind. These symbolize his mastery over all these faculties.
The first thing I noticed was the magnificent golden Gopuram with detailed carvings. As I entered the temple, I felt calm instantly with the smell of the incense sticks.
History And Significance Of Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil (Lord Murugan)
The current architecture of the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil temple is of the 18th century, specifically in 1734. However, the origin of the temple goes back to 948 AD.
The temple was further built in the 13th century by Puvenaya Vaku. He was a minister to King Kalinga Magha of the Jaffna Dynasty. Nallur was the capital of this dynasty.
Currently, the descendants of Ragunatha Maapaana Mudaliyar and a private trust are in charge of the temple.
The Golden Arch And Architecture
With the Dravidian style as the base, the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil beautifully integrates water, wind, space, fire, and earth, the five elements that constitute the universe.
Furthermore, the temple has four gates, and its multi-tiered gopurams feature sculptures of important mythological figures and Hindu deities.
Again, the large halls (Mandapas) and compounds are ideal for gatherings and celebrations. These features show how these temples are important for the community activities in Jaffna.
Visitor Rules: The “Shirtless” Law Explained
The Nallur Kandaswamy dress code requires men to wear dhotis with their chests bare. Women need to wear modest clothes with their shoulders and knees covered.
Sarees, long skirts, and blouses are the ideal outfit for women.
Like any other temple, here also, you need to take off your shoes before entering.
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil Temple Timing
Check out the table below for details on the temple timing and rituals.
Temple Timing
Hours
Doors Open
4 AM
Morning Palliyarai Pooja
4:30 AM
Ushathkala Pooja
5 AM
Temple Doors Reopen, Morning
7:30 AM
Kalasandhi Puja
10 AM
Uchikala Puja
12 PM
Temple Doors Reopen, Evening
3 PM
Sayarakshai Pooja
4 PM
Second Kala Pooja
5 PM
Evening Palliyarai Pooja and Arthasama Pooja
6 PM
Major Festival At Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
The annual Nallur Festival, observed for 25 days in August, is a major event at the temple. The celebration starts with a flag hoisting ceremony, and there are daily processions with Nadaswaram or music, dancers, and idols.
Furthermore, on the 24th day, the devotees pull colossal chariots.
This festival has a deeper cultural significance as it celebrates the Tamil identity of the Sri Lankan people.
The Karthigai Festival, celebrated in the Tamil Month of Karthigai (November-December), is another major festival here. It is a festival of lights.
How To Reach Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil?
I took a cab from Jaffna to reach Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil. I reached the temple within 5 minutes, and the price was INR 90.
2. Naguleswaram Temple (Keerimalai)
Naguleswaram Temple is the most revered among the Pancha Ishwarams of Sri Lanka, or the five prominent Shiva Temples in Sri Lanka. Furthermore, this Hindu shrine has all the features, such as the deity (Moorthy), the holy water (Teertham), and the temple with its precinct (Thalam).
The temple remains open from 6 AM to 11 AM and 4 PM to 7 PM.
Naguleswaram Temple History
The Naguleswaram Temple or Keerimalai gets its name from Nagulam or Keeri, which means mongoose. It is associated with the myths of Nagula Muni or Nakula Swami, who was said to have a mongoose-like face due to a curse by another sage, Yamathagini.
Nagula Muni was originally called Sudhama, and he got this name for a sacrifice he made during his penance.
He regained his human form after a holy bath in the Keerimalai spring. A devout follower of Lord Shiva, Nagula Muni, built the shrine. That is why it is called the Naguleswaram Temple.
This temple has a mention in the Dhakshina Kailaya Puranam and Suta Samhita, a part of the Skanda Purana, which is also a prominent work on Shaivism. Thus, the temple is a prominent landmark in the spread of Shaivism in ancient Jaffna.
Also, the Keerimalai spring here has a mention in the ancient texts. It has the water from the Ganga Samudra Sangamam or the sea and the coastal springs. Thus, the spring is seen as a symbol of the holy union of Lord Shiva and Shakti, the divine masculine and feminine.
The spring water is believed to have curative properties, and it has an association with the Ramayana, as Lord Rama took a bath here.
Naguleswaram Temple Destruction, Restoration, And Architecture
The Naguleswaram Temple you see today is a reconstructed form during the Mahakumbhabhishekam in 2012 under the leadership of the chief priest. The temple was severely damaged after the bombing by the Sri Lankan Army in 1983.
Nevertheless, the first restoration of the temple took place by Prince Vijaya in 543-505 BCE.
Then, in 1621, the Portuguese destroyed it.
Again, nearly 400 years later, Arumuka Navalar revived it in 1894.
Then, in 1918, it was destroyed by fire and later reconstructed.
Moreover, the final blow was the bombing by the Sri Lankan Army, and it was restored in 2012.
The Current Architecture Of Naguleswaram Temple
True to the Dravidian style, the temple has big pillars, towering Gopurams, and intricate sculptures. However, with restoration in different ages, the temple now shows eclectic influences.
So, along with granite stones, concrete and cement are widely used in the construction of these temples.
Naguleswaram Temple Festivals
Aadi Amavaasai is the main festival at the Naguleswaram Temple. It is the New Moon night in the Tamil month of Aadi.
The Moon ascending in the Kataka rasi is occupied by the Sun. So, it is seen as the confluence of the Shiva and Shakti. On this day, the Sri Lankan Hindus pay respect to their ancestors.
How To Reach Naguleswaram Temple (Keerimalai)?
The Naguleswaram Temple is located at a distance of 25 km from Jaffna. You will get Tuk Tuks and public buses (768 and 769) from Jaffna to this temple.
Of course, you can book a private car to travel the short distance.
3. Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Temple
Located at Nainativu Island, the Nagapooshani Amman Temple is located at a distance of around 35 km from Jaffna City. It is one of the 64 Shaktipeethas in the region, and Goddess Nagapooshani, an avatar of Devi Durga, is the presiding deity here.
The goddess gets her name as Nagapooshani because the idol depicts a 5-headed cobra around her head. This also relates to her other name, Bhuvaneshwari, or the Queen of the Universe.
She is also called Indrakshi, as she eliminated the curse of Lord Indra by transforming his wounds into eyes. Lord Indra was cursed by Gautama Maharishi, and he received the blessings of the goddess after penance.
The History And Architecture Of The Nagapooshani Amman Temple
The current form of the temple is the restored version, which took place after the Portuguese attack in 1620. However, the restoration took place much later, between 1720 and 1790.
Nainativu has been an important strategic location for the people of South India and the Hindus of Sri Lanka, as it was on an important trade route in the medieval era.
The temple today has four large Gopurams, and the main Gopuram, or the Raja Raja Gopuram, rises to the height of 108 feet. The idol of Goddess Nagapoosani is also very unique here. The idol has a ten-headed statue of Ravana at the base.
How To Reach The Nagapooshani Amman Temple
I took the bus 776 to reach the Kurikkaduwan Jetty from Jaffna city center. The journey took an hour, and from there, I boarded a ferry to Nainativu Island, and it cost LKR 160 for a round trip. The ferry ride took us around 20 minutes.
Major Festival At Nagapooshani Amman Temple
The Mahostavam or Thiruvilla is the biggest festival at the Nagapooshani Amman Temple. It is a 16-day observation during the months of June and July. More than 100000 devotees attend this ceremony.
The Nearby Nagadeepa Buddhist Temple
The Nagadeepa Buddhist Temple is within 700 meters of the Nagapooshani Amman Temple. The Mahavamsa Buddha, an ancient Pali text, records that Lord Buddha visited this island for the second time in the 6th century BCE.
He made this visit for the pacification of two Naga kings who were at loggerheads.
Today, it has a main Stupa and a Bodhi Tree. Of course, the ambience is very peaceful.
Hidden Gems: Lesser-Known Temples For Culture Lovers
Along with these major Hindu temples, Jaffna also has many lesser-known temples. Here, I will share details about the ones I loved.
1. Vallipuram Alvar Vishnu Kovil (Point Pedro)
Built by the Vijayanagar kings, the Vallipuram Alvar Vishnu Kovil is one of the ancient temples in Jaffna.
The Maha Vishnu Utsavam festival here in September and October is the biggest celebration here. The pillars of this temple are intricately carved.
2. Selva Sannithi Murugan Temple
The Selva Sannithi Murugan Temple near the Thondaimanaru Aru stream has Lord Murugan as the presiding deity.
Chola King Kulottunga first built the temple from 1070 to 1122 A.D.
3. Maviddapuram Kandaswamy Temple (The Historic Royal Temple)
King Thissai Ukkirasinga Cholan built this temple dedicated to Lord Murugan around 789 AD. He built the temple after his daughter, Maruthapuraveegavalli, got rid of her congenital deformity, a horse-like face, by the grace of Lord Murugan.
Maviddapuram also literally means the holy city (Puram) where the horse (Ma) was removed (Vidda).
Cultural Immersion: The Annual Festival Of Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
The Annual Nallur Festival, centered on the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, is a deep spiritual and cultural experience. A local friend of mine shared that more than 60 priests were present at this festival.
The best thing is the inclusive spirit and vibe of the temples. There are no VIP gates or lines. Everyone is treated equally.
The Festival Experience
From the grand chariot festival to devotees performing penance, the 25-day celebration is quite eventful. It begins with Kodiyetram, or the flag hoisting ceremony.
The Chariot Festival or Ther and the Water Cutting Ceremony or Theertham are the other highlights of the festival. It culminates with Tirukalyanam or the divine marriage ceremony.
Cultural And Spiritual Highlights
The festival is dedicated to Lord Murugan (also known as Kandaswamy or Skanda), who is worshipped here in the form of the Vel (sacred spear).
1. Discipline And Purity
The people of Nallur are very particular about punctuality, and they adhere to their traditions. You have to maintain silence inside the inner sanctum, and the atmosphere there is meditative.
2. The Chariot Procession (Ther Thiruvizha)
The 24th day of this 25-day-long festival is reserved for the grand chariot procession. In 2025, the Annual Nallur festival started on 29th July, and the chariot procession took place on August 22nd.
Devotees pull the wooden chariot of Lord Murugan by thick hemp ropes. “When we pull the ropes, we feel that he is among us! The divine.” A temple volunteer shared with me.
3. Acts of Devotion (Penance)
Kavadi Attam: Kavadi Attam is a rhythmic dance where devotees carry decorated semicircular structures or Kavadi in their hands.
Angapirathshanam: Some people perform an extreme level of penance by rolling their bodies along the hot sands surrounding the temple. This is a form of prayer and humility.
Self-Mortification:Again, this is not for the faint-hearted. The devotees pierce their skin with small silver spears to fulfill vows.
4. The Atmosphere In Jaffna
The air reverberates with the resonance of the Nadaswaram, a long pipe instrument, and the drum or Thavil during these 25 days. The environment is trance-like.
Also, the streets are decked out in a sea of white, gold, and red, the temple’s signature colors. You can try the famous Nallur ice cream, Vadai, and Murukku, and the traditional food of Jaffna at the temporary street stalls.
However, as I mentioned earlier, the festival’s greatest asset is unity. People from all walks of life and irrespective of their social status stand shoulder-to-shoulder to pull the chariot.
Practical Tips For Visitors
You have to be an early bird to see the Chariot Festival, as the temple grounds get filled by 5 AM.
You cannot take photos inside the inner sanctum, and it is disrespectful to turn your back to the deity and take selfies.
The Sun is scorching in Jaffna during this festival. So, carry water.
If you want to donate, do so only in the designated boxes or areas of the temple.
A Jaffna Temple Guide Tips From Experts
People of Jaffna are warm and inclusive. However, they are very sincere about their traditional practices. So, follow these tips.
“The temple is not a tourist attraction; it is a living organism of devotion. Every renovation and every ritual is done to enhance the ‘Vibration’ (Shakti) of the space, not just its beauty.”
– A Temple Trustee Member Shared.
1. Evening Puja Feels Different
I visited the Nallur Temple at around 4:30 PM. The atmosphere was electric with the trumpet and drumming music. Also, it was less crowded.
2. You Will Get The Archana Or Fruit Basket Outside The Temple
Buy the fruit basket for $2-3 and hand it to the priest after entering the temple. Be a part of the ritual.
3. Be Respectful To The Vibuthi Or Holy Ash
When the priest offers you the Vibuthi or the Kungumam (Red Powder), you must put it on your forehead.
4. Carry Extra Clothes For Keerimalai Dip
At Naguleswaram, pack a change of clothes. You can bathe in the historic Keerimalai ponds next to the ocean. It’s said to cure skin ailments.
5. Carry Cash For Shoes
You will always find a shoe keeper at the gate. Keep a small change of 50-100 handy.
6. The Island Commute
If you are traveling to Nainativu, arrive at the Jetty by 8:00 AM. It will help you avoid long queues and the Sun in the open sea.
Temple-Specific Architecture And Jaffna Architecture Photography
You will notice a fusion of the Dravidian style of architecture and Portuguese, Dutch, and British styles in the Jaffna temples. They have the large Gopurams, a signature of the Dravidian architecture of Sri Lanka.
Furthermore, these colorful temples of Sri Lanka have wide circumambulatory paths and sturdy outer walls.
Unfortunately, you cannot take photographs inside these temples. For Gopuram photography in Jaffna, you have to capture the golden-ochre Gopurams from the surrounding roads, like Point Pedro Road, during “Golden Hour.”
In July and August, especially during the Nallur Annual Festival, you will love capturing the street photos and the devotees in action.
Jaffna Temple Visit Itinerary: Nallur And Nainativu
Here is a combined itinerary of Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil and Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil.
Morning in Nallur
•5 AM to 6:30 AM – Attending the first puja at the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovi
• 07:00 AM: Having hot Jaffna Dosa for breakfast.
Mid-Day: The Island Pilgrimage (Nainativu)
• 08:30 AM: Depart Jaffna for the Kurikadduwan (KKD) Jetty.
• The drive takes about 1 hour across the scenic Kayts and Pungudutivu causeways.
• 09:45 AM: Board the ferry to Nainativu Island.
• The Ferry: It is a public service (approx. 80–100 LKR). The ride takes 15–20 minutes.
• 10:15 AM – 12:30 PM: Explore the two major sites on the island: Nagapooshani Amman Kovil and Nagadeepa Purana Vihara (A 5-minute walk or short tuk-tuk ride away).
Afternoon: The Return & Coastal Views
• 01:00 PM: Catch the ferry back to the mainland.
The last public ferry usually departs around 4:00 PM, but schedules can shift.
• 02:30 PM: Stop at the Baobab Tree on Pungudutivu Island on your way back. It is a massive tree planted by Arab traders centuries ago.
• 04:00 PM: Arrive back in Jaffna. Visit the Jaffna Fort for sunset to capture the coral-stone walls against the sea.
Here are the frequently asked questions and answers about the Jaffna temple guide.
1. Can Non-Hindus Enter Jaffna Temples?
Yes, non-Hindus can enter Jaffna temples. However, you need to be respectful of the temple’s customs.
Be careful about the dress code, as women need to wear modest clothes and men need to wear dhotis with a bare chest.
2. Is It Safe To Travel To Jaffna Now?
Jaffna is currently recovering from the aftermath of Cyclone Ditwah. Also, the recent Chikungunya outbreaks have been a concern.
Still, Jaffna is one of the most popular bucket-list destinations in 2026. Also, politically, it is stable, and there is increased landmine safety with military installations in multiple places.
However, you must always carry your original ID and passport.
3. How Long Does A Temple Visit Take?
It will take around 45 to 60 minutes to explore each temple in Jaffna. However, if you want to attend the Pujas or talk to the trustee members about the history and significance of the temple, you may need an additional 45 minutes to one hour.
4. Are There Guides Available At The Temples?
No, there are no official guides available at the temples in Jaffna. However, you can hire a local guide or get in touch with the temple volunteers and trustee members for more guidance on the temples and the protocols of visiting them.
5. What Is The Red Dot Placed On The Forehead?
The red dot placed on the forehead is called Pottu or Tilak. It is a blessing from the deity, and it symbolizes divine wisdom.
You must be respectful when the priest applies the red dot on your forehead.
Sibashree is a travel, culture, and leisure writer who has been writing since the age of 12 and professionally since 2014. With more than a decade of travel writing experience and journeys across India and several parts of the world, she brings a deeply personal and thoughtful perspective to her work. A student of English Literature and Mass Communication, Sibashree has always viewed travel as more than movement — for her, it has been a way of understanding people, cultures, and herself. Her passion for spiritual exploration has also led her to many unusual and meaningful destinations over the years. Outside of writing, Sibashree enjoys watching European cinema, reading about global politics, and reflecting on the stories hidden within everyday places.
Chilaw drew my attention with the smell of drying fish at the harbor. As I reached the fishing town, I heard a low chant drifting out of a Shiva temple.
Chilaw, which almost a year back had a Korea FAO Sustainable and Innovative Fisheries and Aquaculture Programme (KOFAF) to boost the shrimp aquaculture of Sri Lanka, is a fishing town first.
Then, it is a pilgrimage site and almost as an afterthought, a beach destination.
Overall, it felt so unpolished and real in a way that many famous coastal stops in Sri Lanka have lost for a long time.
How To Reach Chilaw, Sri Lanka And Get Around?
Chilaw is around 52.9 km away from the Bandaranaike International Airport. By road, the journey is around 1.5 hours to 2 hours.
The town's own railway station is about 3 kilometres from the centre, with regular services connecting to Colombo along the coastal line.
ModeEstimated Time From ColomboApproximate Cost (LKR)NotesCar / Taxi2 Hours8000-15000(Based on Vehicle Type)Most FlexibleEasiest Way to Combine Chilaw with Anawilundawa and Marawila in One LoopUber2 HoursUber Go Intercity: 12016Uber Sedan: Intercity: 12629UberXL Intercity: ₹16062(Source: Uber.com) Best for First-timers.Safer for Solo, Women Travelers. Train (Colombo Fort–Puttalam line)Around 2.5 to 3 HoursThird Class Tickets: 180Second Class Tickets: 400First Class Tickets: 750(Source: Sri Lankan Railways.)The Station is roughly 3 km from the Town CentreA Tuk-Tuk Covers the Last StretchBus2–2.5 Hours150-300Regular Services along the Coastal RouteIt is the Cheapest Option
Once you reach Chilaw, you can move around in tuk-tuks. From the town center, you can take a short ride to the fish market and near St. Mary's Church.
You can even ferry to Anawilundawa and back after a half-day trip.
However, here, I had to negotiate a lot with the drivers. You must also fix the price upfront so that they do not end up adding more to the price during the trip.
What Are The Top Attractions In Chilaw?
Chilaw does not offer a resort trip like Bentota or Hikkaduwa. It mostly has simple guesthouses as accommodations.
Also, if you want to focus on the quieter beach experience, you can stay in the larger properties in Marawila.
Still, Chilaw is not like a typical touristy or bucket-list destination, and here are the places I visited during my stay.
1. Munneswaram Temple
Like the Pancha Bhoota Sthals in India, Sri Lanka also has its five ancient Ishwarams dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Munneswaram is one of them.
The temple is a complex of five temples, dedicated to Shiva, Ganesha, Ayyanayake, Kali, and, notably, a shrine to the Buddha as well.
This temple once again reminded me that the religious traditions of Sri Lanka have always been inclusive. Also, they have often overlapped with each other, rather than staying separate.
Why Is The Munneswaram Temple So Special?
The temple has a mythological association with the Ramayana. It is said that Lord Ramachandra worshipped Lord Shiva here for penance after killing Ravana, who was an ardent Shiva devotee and a Brahman.
Along with the mythological connection, the temple also stands out with its ambiance. As I entered the temple, the incense smoke rose over the Dravidian-style gopuram.
Also, there was a practiced calm even if the priests and devotees moved between the shrines.
However, the temple bustles with energy and human presence during the annual Munneswaram festival.
It is usually held in August, and the entire town seems to reorganise itself around the procession.
2. Chilaw Lagoon And The Sand Spits
Chilaw picks its own rhythm from the lagoon. It is fringed by sixteen species of mangrove and reaches close to four metres at its deepest point before opening into the Indian Ocean.
I took a late-afternoon boat out with a local fisherman who moonlights as a guide.
I spotted egrets lifting off the mangrove roots, and the occasional splash of a mullet. Also, with absolutely no other tourists in sight, it was the most peaceful 1 hour in Chilaw.
The lagoon isn't just scenic.
It is a working fishery that supports well over a thousand families in the area, and you feel that livelihood everywhere.
I saw the nets drying along the banks to the small jetties where boats are unloaded each morning.
Nearby, the Chilaw sand spits offer a quieter, more unusual landscape for birdwatchers, with shifting sandbanks that host wading birds you won't easily spot elsewhere on this coast.
Regarding the charges, you have to negotiate directly with a fisherman at the jetty rather than book through a formal operator. My boat ride cost me LKR 500.
So, this is still very much an informal, word-of-mouth arrangement, and that is why there will be a lot of negotiations regarding the trip duration and the charges.
3. Anawilundawa Wetland Sanctuary
If you are staying in Chilaw, do not skip a half-day trip to Anawilundawa, located between Chilaw and Puttalam.
This 1400 hectares area is a Ramsar Site, and it has three distinct ecosystems. You will find a
mangrove swamp, coastal saltwater belt, and freshwater lakes.
Also, the biodiversity numbers are amazing.
150 Bord Species
20 Mammal Species
70 Types of Butterflies
Moreover, half of the freshwater fish species in Sri Lanka call Anawilundawa Wetland Sanctuary their home.
I made a mistake by not taking a guide with me for the wetland visit.
A local birder pointed out species from the boat that I would have completely missed on my own, including a painted stork colony that was, frankly, worth the whole detour.
If birdwatching is even a mild interest, hire a guide at the entrance. It is inexpensive and transforms the visit.
The entry is free, and the guide cost will be around LKR 1500 for two hours. Also, the sanctuary remains open from 6 AM to 6 PM.
4. Faith Along The Coast: Churches And Kovils
Home to the Munneswaram Temple, Chilaw also harbors a Catholic heritage.
The St. Mary's Church in the town centre is a prominent example, and its architecture and quiet courtyard make it worth a stop even outside service hours.
A short drive away in Thalawila, St. Anne's Church draws thousands of pilgrims each July for its annual feast, one of the larger Catholic gatherings on this stretch of coast, complete with processions and all-night vigils.
What struck me most, wandering between kovils, churches, and small unnamed shrines tucked down side streets, was how unremarkable this coexistence felt to the people living it. Nobody made a point of it.
It was simply how the town worked.
5. Beaches, Toddy Taverns, And The Fish Market
Chilaw beaches are not the typical postcard frames you will find on the southern coast.
Silver Beach, the most prominent among them, is right in town. I loved an early evening walk there.
Also, nearby Marawila offers a longer, quieter stretch of sand if you are willing to drive twenty minutes north.
For a real sense of the town, though, skip the beach and get to the Chilaw fish market before 7 AM.
It was loud, slippery underfoot, and completely unstaged. Furthermore, when the boats came in, auctioneers shouted prices, and vendors were already frying fresh catch on the spot.
I ended up having a breakfast of string hoppers and coconut sambol from a stall two feet from the water, and it remains one of the best meals of the trip.
Later, I visited one small family-run toddy tavern. It served fresh fermented palm sap alongside coconut-based snacks.
It was strong, and I just took a few sips. Though it is a slice of daily Chilaw life, it is not for someone who is not used to it.
What Is The Best Time To Visit Chilaw?
Being on the west coast, Chilaw follows a different rhythm than the south or east.
SeasonMonthsConditionsDry SeasonDecember–MarchSunny and low-humidity weather conditions are the best for lagoon trips and wetland walks.ShoulderApril, NovemberTransitional months offer fewer crowds, and the weather can be mixed.Southwest MonsoonMay–OctoberHeavier rain makes birdwatching and boating harder to plan around.Munneswaram FestivalUsually AugustThe town reorganises around the temple procession.So, it is worth timing a visit around.
Combining Chilaw With Nearby Stops
Route SegmentApprox. Driving TimeBest Known ForColombo to Chilaw2 hoursMunneswaram Temple, fish marketChilaw to Anawilundawa30 minutesWetland sanctuary, birdwatchingChilaw to Marawila20 minutesQuieter beach stretchChilaw to Puttalam45 minutesPuttalam Lagoon, salt pansPuttalam to Wilpattu National Park30–45 minutesLeopard sightings, natural "villu" lakes
This makes Chilaw a natural half-day or overnight anchor for a longer west-coast loop rather than a single-purpose day trip.
Why Chilaw Is Worth It
Chilaw is not a destination that announces itself.
There is no single landmark that makes it onto every Sri Lanka itinerary, no beach that dominates Instagram feeds.
What it offers instead is texture. It has a working fish market, a thousand-year-old temple complex, mangrove lagoons, and a religious diversity that's lived rather than performed.
If you are the kind of traveller who would rather stumble into a real town than tick off a famous one, Chilaw is worth far more than the quick pass-through I originally planned.
Once you cross the massive bay of Weligama, you will find many hidden beaches and coves on the south-western coast.
There is a stretch that goes through small inlets and has beautiful golden sands. These inlets with coconut palms are called Midigama collectively.
While Midigama will win your heart with its quaint beauty at first glance, it is more popular as a surfing spot for intermediates.
It is no less than a treasure hunt with unexplored reefs and secret waves.
Moreover, the surf spots of the Midigama Beach, such as Lazy Left or Ahangama, are diverse and unique in the experience they offer.
However, a local professional surfer confided that the Coconuts are the best surfing spot if you already have some skills.
Hi, are you planning a trip to Midigama Beach anytime soon? Read this blog to know about the location, surfing sports, and more about this beautiful beach.
Where Is Midigama Beach?
The cluster of beaches, known as the Midigama Beach, is between Weligama and Ahangama, a popular beach town and surfing spot.
Furthermore, the beach spans an area of 6 kilometers, including the clusters of inlets.
The best and most budget-friendly way to reach Midigama. It is a train ride of around 3 hours and 15 minutes, and the ticket cost me around Rs. 240.
I took the train from Colombo Fort at 6:15 PM and reached Midigama at 9:25 PM, and the ticket price was Rs 550 for the second class.
Where To Surf On Midigama Beach?
I have already shared that the surfing spots in Midigama are diverse. So, the size, the type of breaks, and the surfing style will be different from one surfing location to another.
So, here are the surfing spots everyone loves.
1. Ahangama
Ahangama, on the northwest of Midigama, has been a popular surfing hub for the last few years.
It has many surf camps and bars, and its reef breaks are excellent for beginners and mid-level surfers.
Kabalana Beach is the best place to start your surfing expedition here.
2. Ram’s Right
Ram’s Right is the toughest surf break in the region, and you really need to make a quick surfing start.
Furthermore, the barrel sections make it fascinating. Also, you really need to look out for sea urchins here.
3. The Combination Of Lazy Right And Lazy Left
These two offer secure reef brakes, and Lazy Left is slightly harder to surf than Lazy Right.
So, Lazy Right is more suitable for beginners. Here, a surfer can enjoy cruisy rides where the surf breaks over a deep reef.
4. Plantations
It is very close to Weligama, and it is an ideal surfing spot for intermediates.
The entry point is an opening in the rock by the Plantation Surf Inn.
Furthermore, the reef here is deep, and surfing usually continues in the right direction and a few lefts.
5. Coconuts
Coconuts is the place where you will enjoy the classic Sri Lankan reef surfing experience.
Here, you can surf right and left, and the breaks are on both ends of the beach.
However, the east end of the beach is choppier.
6. Weligama
Once you are done surfing at Coconuts, you can take a short tuk-tuk ride to Weligama.
Furthermore, with a sandy bottom, it is an ideal surfing destination for beginners.
What Are The Places To Visit Near Midigama Beach?
If you are done surfing, you can explore the historic Galle Fort and the hedonistic Mirissa Beach.
1. Mirissa Beach
Mirissa Beach turns into the most Hedonistic place in Sri Lanka in the evening.
The bars here offer amazing happy hour offers. So, you will find the cheapest chilled beer in Sri Lanka here.
2. Galle Fort
Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is just 25 km away from Midigama Beach.
It is one of the best examples of a European fortified city in South and South-East Asia.
Enjoy climbing up the rampart and having a walk from one corner to another, admire the architecture, and enjoy the 360-degree view of Galle.
Watching the sunset from the top of the fort is also a magical experience.
What Is The Best Time For Surfing In Midigama Beach?
Like all other beaches on the southern coast of Sri Lanka, November to April is the best time to visit Midigama Beach.
Regular storms and high rainfall are the main forces hitting the beach in this season.
Furthermore, when you are planning to surf in Midigama beach, pick early morning or late evening as the time as the winds pick up speed later in the day.
Where To Eat In Midigama Beach?
The main beach of Midigama and the place near the Coconuts have many cool eating places.
Contrary to Ahangama, the Midigama Beach exudes a hipster energy.
If you are looking for a local experience where you will also get some cultural insights, you can visit Sandaru Restaurant.
It is a family-run restaurant, and here you can eat kottu, rice, curry, and other local delicacies.
Another excellent place for trying local delicacies here is the Shirani Home Made Rice & Curry near the Coconut Beach.
Here, you will find the best rice-vegetable combos.
Where To Stay For Surfing At Midigama Beach?
You can stay at the really cool hostels near the Lazy Left if you want to surf at Midigama Beach.
However, if you are traveling with family and you are looking for comfort, Naomi Beach Hotel, the best surfing hotel in Sri Lanka, will be your ideal choice.
It has a stunning infinity pool, and the on-site bar is perfect for chilling after a surfing session.
Moreover, it is close to the Coconuts, for me, the best surfing spot in Midigama Beach.
Also, Surfing Wombats is another place to stay in Midigama for surfing. I can stay here simply because of the pizza they serve.
Furthermore, it is a short walk from the Lazy Left and Lazy Right surfing spots.
Also, if you want to be a part of the surfing camps in Midigama Beach, you must take a tuk-tuk to Weligama, and you will find many reputable surfing camps there.
Polonnaruwa is filled with ancient structures, shrines, and temples. So, it draws the attention of people who are interested in visiting a place of great historical importance.
In this article, I will give you some important tips and talk about the places, sites, and the history of the place that drew my attention.
A Brief History Of Polonnaruwa
Before getting into other details, we should take a look at the history of the place. Furthermore, knowing the history of Polonnaruwa will make the trip more interesting.
Polonnaruwa was the second major capital of Sri Lanka, which came to prominence after the destruction of Anuradhapura in 993 AD.
Moreover, it was the most important commercial and religious center of that time. Polonnaruwa reached its golden age in the 12th century under King Parakramabahu I.
The Chola Period (10th Century To 11th Century)
The South Indian Chola dynasty conquered the ancient capital of Anuradhapura and made Polonnaruwa their new capital.
Moreover, they renamed the city Jananathamangalam and built several Brahmanical monuments like the Siva Devale temple.
Furthermore, the Cholas chose Polonnaruwa over Anuradhapura as the capital because it was positioned strategically in the heart of Sri Lanka.
Additionally, the position of the city also gave them protection against the rebellion of the Ruhunu Sinhalese kingdom.
Sinhalese Golden Age (11th Century To 12th Century)
The strategically positioned capital couldn't stay protected from the Sinhalese.
Eventually, in 1070, the Sinhalese King Vijayabahu I defeated the Cholas and restored Sinhalese rule. He also kept Polonnaruwa as the capital of the Sinhalese kingdom.
The city reached its highest glory under his successors:
King Parakramabahu 1 (1153 to 1186): King Parakramabahu 1 is often called the Great. He turned the city into a beautiful garden city during his rule.
Additionally, he built Vaijayanta Pasada (Royal Palace) and intricate temples like the Lankatilaka Temple.
Moreover, he built a massive 25-square-kilometer artificial lake known as Parakrama Samudra to secure water for his people.
King Nissanka Malla (1187 to 1196): King Nissanka Malla also tried to match his predecessors' construction projects. In trying to do so, he ended up bankrupting the kingdom.
Decline And Rediscovery (13th Century Onwards)
There were several invasions and turmoils going on because of which the city’s resources and administrative system collapsed in the early 13th century.
The capital moved to the southwestern side of the island, and gradually, the jungle spread through Polonnaruwa.
Finally, archeologists rediscovered the ruins of Polonnaruwa in 1860, and the forgotten city stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Places To Visit In Polonnaruwa
Polonnaruwa is a place of historical significance.
The ancient structures, shrines, and temples draw the attention of visitors. What amazed me was the well-preserved ancient remains.
Moreover, I feel that a bicycle is an amazing option for traveling through the city.
Places I found most amazing in Polonnaruwa are:
The Gal Vihara
The Gal Vihara is four giant Buddha statues, which are carved out of a large granite gneiss rock. The images consist of a large seated figure, another smaller seated figure inside an artificial cavern, a standing figure, and a reclining figure.
Additionally, King Parakramabahu I fashioned this rock structure in the 12th century.
Moreover, there is a story regarding this rock structure, which is one of the four statues, that isn't actually Buddha. Many people say that it is one of his grieving apprentices.
The Polonnaruwa Vatadage
Remaining unnoticed for several centuries, the excavation of Polonnaruwa Vatadage started in 1903.
Many people believe that Parakramabahu 1 built this place to hold the relic of the tooth of Buddha.
Moreover, another group of people believes that King Nissanka Malla built this place to hold the alms bowl used by Buddha.
Additionally, the structure has two stone platforms decorated with stone carvings. You can enter the lower platform through a single entrance, which is facing the north.
You can enter the second platform through four doorways facing four cardinal points.
Hatadage
Hatadage is another place that I found very fascinating. This place is found next to the Vatadage.
This place holds a historical importance for tourists. Hatadage is located in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. According to historians, King Nissanka Malla built this place.
Moreover, Nissanka Malla built this place as a shrine to keep the relic of the tooth of the Buddha.
Furthermore, many people say that the place holds sixty relics. I found this place very fascinating to visit.
The Lankatilaka Temple
The Lankatilaka Temple is another interesting place to visit. The temple is located on Panhalgala Rock in Udunuwara.
Moreover, King Bhuvanekabahu 4 constructed this temple. Additionally, the temple has beautiful stonework, rock inscriptions in both Sinhala and Tamil, and a striking dragon arch.
The walls of the temple reach 17 meters in height and have a large statue of Buddha. Furthermore, the design of the stairways of the temple drew my attention.
Every step of the stairway is only 10 centimeters wide. So, it is difficult to climb. Moreover, with such short steps, the only way to climb down is sideways.
While climbing down this manner, you won't be able to turn your back towards the statue of Buddha, which is also considered disrespectful.
Rankoth Vehera Stupa
The Rankoth Vehera Stupa is the largest stupa in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. King Nissanka Malla built it.
The fascinating part of the stupa is that it is built entirely of brick, and it is set upon a large square terrace. When you walk around the stupa, you will get to know how big it is.
How To Go Around Polonnaruwa?
There are several ways to go around Polonnaruwa. The two most convenient ways are:
Bicycle
According to me, the best way to see Polonnaruwa is by bicycle.
Moreover, there are many ruins spread out throughout Polonnaruwa, and a bicycle will let you move freely from one place to another.
Furthermore, there are many hotels and shops in Polonnaruwa from where you can rent a bicycle. Finally, renting a bicycle will make your trip convenient and budget-friendly.
Tuk Tuk
Tuk-tuk is also a good option for going around in Polonnaruwa.
Moreover, hiring a tuk tuk will also provide you with a driver as a guide, which is very amazing to see the ancient city.
Furthermore, you should choose a tuk-tuk if you are in a hurry. Though I prefer renting a bicycle.
How To Reach Polonnaruwa?
I will give a few routes for Polonnaruwa with cost and travel time. You can choose the convenient one for you.
From Sigiriya To Polonnaruwa
Bus: Sigiriya – Inamaluwa – Polonnaruwa – Kaduruwela | After a short tuk-tuk journey from Sigiriya to Inamaluwa, jump on the bus to Kaduruwela.
Cost: Tuk-tuk from Sigiriya to Inamaluwa 500 LKR, ($2.8) | Bus from Inamaluwa to Polonnaruwa 200 LKR, ($1) per person
Travel time: 1.5 hours
From Dambulla To Polonnaruwa
Bus: Dambulla – Polonnaruwa – Kaduruwela | Take a direct bus that heads for Kaduruwela from the Dambulla Main bus stop. The bus leaves every 20-30 minutes starting from 7 am.
Cost: Bus from Dambulla to Kaduruwela – 220 LKR ($1) per person
Travel time: 1.5 to 2 hours
From Trincomalee To Polonnaruwa
Bus: Trincomalee – Habarana – Polonnaruwa | A quite difficult journey. From Trincomalee, take a bus heading for Dambulla or Colombo.
Tip: Before entering, ask if the bus driver stops in Habarana and if there is a connection to Polonnaruwa. Generally, you’ll find buses that stop in Polonnaruwa at the Habarana Junction.
Cost: Bus from Trincomalee to Habarana – 120 LKR, ($0.70) | Bus from Habarana to Polonnaruwa – 80 LKR, ($0,50)
Travel time: 4 hours
From Colombo To Polonnaruwa
Train: Colombo Fort – Polonnaruwa | A rough journey that is packed and heads out to the east coast of Sri Lanka. Personally, I recommend visiting Kandy and Sigiriya in between.
Cost: 2nd class: 350 LKR ($2) per person, 3rd class: 200 LKR ($1) per person
Travel time: 6.5 hours
What To Eat In Polonnaruwa?
In Polonnaruwa, you should always go for authentic Sri Lankan rice and curry. I will mention some of the best dishes according to my choice:
Traditional Rice And Curry
There are many places in Polonnaruwa where you can get an authentic Sri Lankan platter or buffet.
In this platter, you will get 10 to 30 freshly made vegetable and meat curries. Moreover, this will be served on a lotus leaf.
String Hoppers
String hoppers are a breakfast and dinner dish. It is made of steamed rice flour noodles. Additionally, they serve it with spicy coconut sambal (Pol Sambol) and dal (Lentil) curry.
Polos (Young Jackfruit) Curry
It is a green jackfruit curry. It is cooked slowly and looks like meat. Additionally, they cook it with regional spices, which enhance the taste of the dish.
Where To Eat In Polonnaruwa
There are some places you can go to get high-quality, authentic Sri Lankan food. I will share some places that I liked.
Jaga Food
It is a good place you can go to have your Sri Lankan buffet prepared in a traditional clay pot. Moreover, this is a place with an excellent outdoor seating arrangement.
Priyamali Gedara
It serves authentic, high-quality local home-cooked curries.
Tree Hut Restaurant
I found this place amazing because of its blend of traditional local dishes with Chinese-inspired options.
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