Lord Murugan is the God of valor, eternal youth, and the destruction of ignorance.
The Vel, or spear, in his hand stands for divine wisdom.
He has six faces, which represent the five senses and the mind.
These symbolize his mastery over all these faculties.
The first thing I noticed was the magnificent golden Gopuram with detailed carvings.
As I entered the temple, I felt calm instantly with the smell of the incense sticks.
History And Significance Of Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil (Lord Murugan)
The current architecture of the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil temple is of the 18th century, specifically in 1734.
However, the origin of the temple goes back to 948 AD.
The temple was further built in the 13th century by Puvenaya Vaku.
He was a minister to King Kalinga Magha of the Jaffna Dynasty. Nallur was the capital of this dynasty.
Currently, the descendants of Ragunatha Maapaana Mudaliyar and a private trust are in charge of the temple.
The Golden Arch And Architecture
With the Dravidian style as the base, the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil beautifully integrates water, wind, space, fire, and earth, the five elements that constitute the universe.
Furthermore, the temple has four gates, and its multi-tiered gopurams feature sculptures of important mythological figures and Hindu deities.
Again, the large halls (Mandapas) and compounds are ideal for gatherings and celebrations.
These features show how these temples are important for community activities in Jaffna.
Visitor Rules: The “Shirtless” Law Explained
The Nallur Kandaswamy dress code requires men to wear dhotis with their chests bare.
Women need to wear modest clothes with their shoulders and knees covered.
Sarees, long skirts, and blouses are the ideal outfit for women.
Like any other temple, here also, you need to take off your shoes before entering.
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil Temple Timing
Check out the table below for details on the temple timing and rituals.
Temple Timing
Hours
Doors Open
4 AM
Morning Palliyarai Pooja
4:30 AM
Ushathkala Pooja
5 AM
Temple Doors Reopen, Morning
7:30 AM
Kalasandhi Puja
10 AM
Uchikala Puja
12 PM
Temple Doors Reopen, Evening
3 PM
Sayarakshai Pooja
4 PM
Second Kala Pooja
5 PM
Evening Palliyarai Pooja and Arthasama Pooja
6 PM
Major Festival At Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
The annual Nallur Festival, observed for 25 days in August, is a major event at the temple.
The celebration starts with a flag-hoisting ceremony, and there are daily processions with Nadaswaram music, dancers, and idols.
Furthermore, on the 24th day, the devotees pull colossal chariots.
This festival has a deeper cultural significance as it celebrates the Tamil identity of the Sri Lankan people.
The Karthigai Festival, celebrated in the Tamil Month of Karthigai (November-December), is another major festival here.
It is a festival of lights.
How To Reach Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil?
I took a cab from Jaffna to reach Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil.
I reached the temple within 5 minutes, and the price was INR 90.
2. Naguleswaram Temple (Keerimalai)
Naguleswaram Temple is the most revered among the Pancha Ishwarams of Sri Lanka, or the five prominent Shiva Temples in Sri Lanka.
Furthermore, this Hindu shrine has all the features, such as the deity (Moorthy), the holy water (Teertham), and the temple with its precinct (Thalam).
The temple remains open from 6 AM to 11 AM and 4 PM to 7 PM.
Naguleswaram Temple History
The Naguleswaram Temple or Keerimalai gets its name from Nagulam or Keeri, which means mongoose.
It is associated with the myths of Nagula Muni or Nakula Swami, who was said to have a mongoose-like face due to a curse by another sage, Yamathagini.
Nagula Muni was originally called Sudhama, and he got this name for a sacrifice he made during his penance.
He regained his human form after a holy bath in the Keerimalai spring.
A devout follower of Lord Shiva, Nagula Muni, built the shrine.
That is why it is called the Naguleswaram Temple.
This temple is mentioned in the Dhakshina Kailaya Puranam and Suta Samhita, a part of the Skanda Purana, which is also a prominent work on Shaivism.
Thus, the temple is a prominent landmark in the spread of Shaivism in ancient Jaffna.
Also, the Keerimalai spring here is mentioned in the ancient texts.
It has water from the Ganga Samudra Sangamam or the sea and the coastal springs.
Thus, the spring is seen as a symbol of the holy union of Lord Shiva and Shakti, the divine masculine and feminine.
The spring water is believed to have curative properties, and it has an association with the Ramayana, as Lord Rama took a bath here.
Naguleswaram Temple Destruction, Restoration, And Architecture
The Naguleswaram Temple you see today is a reconstructed form from the Mahakumbhabhishekam in 2012 under the leadership of the chief priest.
The temple was severely damaged after the bombing by the Sri Lankan Army in 1983.
Nevertheless, the first restoration of the temple took place by Prince Vijaya in 543-505 BCE.
Then, in 1621, the Portuguese destroyed it.
Again, nearly 400 years later, Arumuka Navalar revived it in 1894.
Then, in 1918, it was destroyed by fire and later reconstructed.
Moreover, the final blow was the bombing by the Sri Lankan Army, and it was restored in 2012.
The Current Architecture Of Naguleswaram Temple
True to the Dravidian style, the temple has big pillars, towering Gopurams, and intricate sculptures.
However, with restorations over different ages, the temple now shows eclectic influences.
So, along with granite stones, concrete and cement are widely used in the construction of these temples.
Naguleswaram Temple Festivals
Aadi Amavasai is the main festival at the Naguleswaram Temple.
It is the New Moon night in the Tamil month of Aadi.
The Moon ascending in the Kataka rasi is occupied by the Sun.
So, it is seen as the confluence of Shiva and Shakti.
On this day, the Sri Lankan Hindus pay respect to their ancestors.
How To Reach Naguleswaram Temple (Keerimalai)?
The Naguleswaram Temple is located at a distance of 25 km from Jaffna.
You will get tuk-tuks and public buses (768 and 769) from Jaffna to this temple.
Of course, you can book a private car to travel the short distance.
3. Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Temple
Located at Nainativu Island, the Nagapooshani Amman Temple is located at a distance of around 35 km from Jaffna City.
It is one of the 64 Shaktipeethas in the region, and Goddess Nagapooshani, an avatar of Devi Durga, is the presiding deity here.
The goddess gets her name as Nagapooshani because the idol depicts a 5-headed cobra around her head.
This also relates to her other name, Bhuvaneshwari, or the Queen of the Universe.
She is also called Indrakshi, as she eliminated the curse of Lord Indra by transforming his wounds into eyes.
Gautama Maharishi cursed Lord Indra, who then received the blessings of the goddess after penance.
The History And Architecture Of The Nagapooshani Amman Temple
The current form of the temple is the restored version, which took place after the Portuguese attack in 1620.
However, the restoration took place much later, between 1720 and 1790.
Nainativu has been an important strategic location for the people of South India and the Hindus of Sri Lanka, as it was on an important trade route in the medieval era.
The temple today has four large Gopurams, and the main Gopuram, or the Raja Raja Gopuram, rises to the height of 108 feet.
The idol of Goddess Nagapoosani is also very unique here. The idol has a ten-headed statue of Ravana at the base.
How To Reach The Nagapooshani Amman Temple
I took the bus 776 to reach the Kurikkaduwan Jetty from Jaffna city center.
The journey took an hour, and from there, I boarded a ferry to Nainativu Island, and it cost LKR 160 for a round trip.
The ferry ride took us around 20 minutes.
Major Festival At Nagapooshani Amman Temple
The Mahostavam or Thiruvilla is the biggest festival at the Nagapooshani Amman Temple.
It is a 16-day observance during the months of June and July. More than 100000 devotees attend this ceremony.
The Nearby Nagadeepa Buddhist Temple
The Nagadeepa Buddhist Temple is within 700 meters of the Nagapooshani Amman Temple.
The Mahavamsa Buddha, an ancient Pali text, records that Lord Buddha visited this island for the second time in the 6th century BCE.
He made this visit for the pacification of two Naga kings who were at loggerheads.
Today, it has a main Stupa and a Bodhi Tree. Of course, the ambience is very peaceful.
Hidden Gems: Lesser-Known Temples For Culture Lovers
Along with these major Hindu temples, Jaffna also has many lesser-known temples.
Here, I will share details about the ones I loved.
1. Vallipuram Alvar Vishnu Kovil (Point Pedro)
Built by the Vijayanagar kings, the Vallipuram Alvar Vishnu Kovil is one of the ancient temples in Jaffna.
The Maha Vishnu Utsavam festival here in September and October is the biggest celebration here.
The pillars of this temple have intricate carvings.
2. Selva Sannithi Murugan Temple
The Selva Sannithi Murugan Temple near the Thondaimanaru Aru stream has Lord Murugan as the presiding deity.
Chola King Kulottunga first built the temple from 1070 to 1122 A.D.
3. Maviddapuram Kandaswamy Temple (The Historic Royal Temple)
King Thissai Ukkirasinga Cholan built this temple dedicated to Lord Murugan around 789 AD.
He built the temple after his daughter, Maruthapuraveegavalli, got rid of her congenital deformity, a horse-like face, by the grace of Lord Murugan.
Maviddapuram also literally means the holy city (Puram) where the horse (Ma) was removed (Vidda).
Cultural Immersion: The Annual Festival Of Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
The Annual Nallur Festival, centered on the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, is a deep spiritual and cultural experience.
A local friend of mine shared that more than 60 priests were present at this festival.
The best thing is the inclusive spirit and vibe of the temples.
There are no VIP gates or lines. Everyone is treated equally.
The Festival Experience
From the grand chariot festival to devotees performing penance, the 25-day celebration is quite eventful.
It begins with Kodiyetram, or the flag hoisting ceremony.
The Chariot Festival, or Ther, and the Water Cutting Ceremony, or Theertham, are the other highlights of the festival.
It culminates with Tirukalyanam, or the divine marriage ceremony.
Cultural And Spiritual Highlights
The festival is dedicated to Lord Murugan (also known as Kandaswamy or Skanda), who is worshipped here in the form of the Vel (sacred spear).
1. Discipline And Purity
The people of Nallur are very particular about punctuality, and they adhere to their traditions.
You have to maintain silence inside the inner sanctum, and the atmosphere there is meditative.
2. The Chariot Procession (Ther Thiruvizha)
The 24th day of this 25-day-long festival is reserved for the grand chariot procession.
In 2025, the Annual Nallur festival started on 29th July, and the chariot procession took place on August 22nd.
Devotees pull the wooden chariot of Lord Murugan by thick hemp ropes.
“When we pull the ropes, we feel that he is among us! The divine.” A temple volunteer shared with me.
3. Acts of Devotion (Penance)
•Kavadi Attam
Kavadi Attam is a rhythmic dance where devotees carry decorated semicircular structures, or Kavadi, in their hands.
•Angapirathshanam
Some people perform an extreme level of penance by rolling their bodies along the hot sands surrounding the temple.
This is a form of prayer and humility.
•Self-Mortification
Again, this is not for the faint-hearted.
The devotees pierce their skin with small silver spears to fulfill vows.
4. The Atmosphere In Jaffna
The air reverberates with the resonance of the Nadaswaram, a long pipe instrument, and the drum, or Thavil, during these 25 days.
The environment is trance-like.
Also, the streets are decked out in a sea of white, gold, and red, the temple’s signature colors.
You can try the famous Nallur ice cream, Vadai, and Murukku, and the traditional food of Jaffna at the temporary street stalls.
However, as I mentioned earlier, the festival’s greatest asset is unity.
People from all walks of life and irrespective of their social status stand shoulder-to-shoulder to pull the chariot.
Practical Tips For Visitors
You have to be an early bird to see the Chariot Festival, as the temple grounds get filled by 5 AM.
You cannot take photos inside the inner sanctum, and it is disrespectful to turn your back to the deity and take selfies.
The Sun is scorching in Jaffna during this festival. So, carry water.
If you want to donate, do so only in the designated boxes or areas of the temple.
A Jaffna Temple Guide: Tips From Experts
People of Jaffna are warm and inclusive. However, they are very sincere about their traditional practices. So, follow these tips.
“The temple is not a tourist attraction; it is a living organism of devotion.
Every renovation and every ritual is done to enhance the ‘Vibration’ (Shakti) of the space, not just its beauty.”
– A Temple Trustee Member Shared.
1. Evening Puja Feels Different
I visited the Nallur Temple at around 4:30 PM. The atmosphere was electric with the trumpet and drumming music. Also, it was less crowded.
2. You Will Get The Archana Or Fruit Basket Outside The Temple
Buy the fruit basket for $2-3 and hand it to the priest after entering the temple. Be a part of the ritual.
3. Be Respectful To The Vibuthi Or Holy Ash
When the priest offers you the Vibuthi or the Kungumam (Red Powder), you must put it on your forehead.
4. Carry Extra Clothes For Keerimalai Dip
At Naguleswaram, pack a change of clothes.
You can bathe in the historic Keerimalai ponds next to the ocean. It’s said to cure skin ailments.
5. Carry Cash For Shoes
You will always find a shoe keeper at the gate.
Keep a small change of 50-100 handy.
6. The Island Commute
If you are traveling to Nainativu, arrive at the Jetty by 8:00 AM.
It will help you avoid long queues and the Sun in the open sea.
Temple-Specific Architecture And Jaffna Architecture Photography
You will notice a fusion of the Dravidian style of architecture and Portuguese, Dutch, and British styles in the Jaffna temples.
Furthermore, these colorful temples of Sri Lanka have wide circumambulatory paths and sturdy outer walls.
Unfortunately, you cannot take photographs inside these temples.
For Gopuram photography in Jaffna, you have to capture the golden-ochre Gopurams from the surrounding roads, like Point Pedro Road, during “Golden Hour.”
In July and August, especially during the Nallur Annual Festival, you will love capturing the street photos and the devotees in action.
Jaffna Temple Visit Itinerary: Nallur And Nainativu
Here is a combined itinerary of Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil and Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil.
Morning in Nallur
•5 AM to 6:30 AM – Attending the first puja at the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
• 07:00 AM: Having hot Jaffna Dosa for breakfast.
Mid-Day: The Island Pilgrimage (Nainativu)
• 08:30 AM: Depart Jaffna for the Kurikadduwan (KKD) Jetty.
• The drive takes about 1 hour across the scenic Kayts and Pungudutivu causeways.
• 09:45 AM: Board the ferry to Nainativu Island.
• The Ferry: It is a public service (approx. 80–100 LKR). The ride takes 15–20 minutes.
• 10:15 AM – 12:30 PM: Explore the two major sites on the island: Nagapooshani Amman Kovil and Nagadeepa Purana Vihara (A 5-minute walk or short tuk-tuk ride away).
Afternoon: The Return & Coastal Views
• 01:00 PM: Catch the ferry back to the mainland.
The last public ferry usually departs around 4:00 PM, but schedules can shift.
• 02:30 PM: Stop at the Baobab Tree on Pungudutivu Island on your way back.
It is a massive tree planted by Arab traders centuries ago.
• 04:00 PM: Arrive back in Jaffna.
Visit the Jaffna Fort for sunset to capture the coral-stone walls against the sea.
Here are the frequently asked questions and answers about the Jaffna temple guide.
1. Can Non-Hindus Enter Jaffna Temples?
Yes, non-Hindus can enter Jaffna temples.
However, you need to be respectful of the temple’s customs.
Be careful about the dress code, as women need to wear modest clothes and men need to wear dhotis with a bare chest.
2. Is It Safe To Travel To Jaffna Now?
Jaffna is currently recovering from the aftermath of Cyclone Ditwah.
Also, the recent Chikungunya outbreaks have been a concern.
Still, Jaffna is one of the most popular bucket-list destinations in 2026.
Also, politically, it is stable, and there is increased landmine safety with military installations in multiple places.
However, you must always carry your original ID and passport.
3. How Long Does A Temple Visit Take?
It will take around 45 to 60 minutes to explore each temple in Jaffna.
However, if you want to attend the Pujas or talk to the trustee members about the history and significance of the temple, you may need an additional 45 minutes to one hour.
4. Are There Guides Available At The Temples?
No, there are no official guides available at the temples in Jaffna.
However, you can hire a local guide.
You can even get in touch with the temple volunteers and trustee members for more guidance on the temples and the protocols of visiting them.
5. What Is The Red Dot Placed On The Forehead?
The red dot placed on the forehead is called Pottu or Tilak.
It is a blessing from the deity, and it symbolizes divine wisdom.
You must be respectful when the priest applies the red dot on your forehead.
Sibashree is a travel, culture, and leisure writer who has been writing since the age of 12 and professionally since 2014. With more than a decade of travel writing experience and journeys across India and several parts of the world, she brings a deeply personal and thoughtful perspective to her work. A student of English Literature and Mass Communication, Sibashree has always viewed travel as more than movement — for her, it has been a way of understanding people, cultures, and herself. Her passion for spiritual exploration has also led her to many unusual and meaningful destinations over the years. Outside of writing, Sibashree enjoys watching European cinema, reading about global politics, and reflecting on the stories hidden within everyday places.
My driver, Dasun, stopped the jeep beside a villu, one of the signature natural lakes of Wilpattu.
Our jeep had been idling by villu for around 20 minutes. Then, suddenly, our tracker killed the chatter and pointed.
I spotted a leopard moving along the far treeline. His body language was unbothered, and it seemed that he was in no rush at all.
Also, there were no jeeps fighting to capture the spot for taking a photo. The absence of radio crackling and other trackers converging on the spot further added to the experience.
Overall, the moments here told me everything about why Wilpattu is quietly considered Sri Lanka's most serious leopard park, even though Yala National Park gets most of the international attention.
Furthermore, Wilpattu is the largest in Sri Lanka, and it feels like it.
Also, I noticed a clear difference between Yala and Wilpattu. Yala’s blocks can feel congested because of the safari traffic in peak season.
However, the sheer scale of Wilpattu and its remoteness from the southern tourist circuit keeps visitor density low even when sightings are excellent.
Wilpattu National Park At A Glance
Wilpattu is in the North Western and North Central Provinces of Sri Lanka.
It straddles the boundary near Puttalam and Anuradhapura districts.
The villu system defines this national park. The villu system has a network of roughly 60 natural, sand-rimmed lakes scattered through dense scrub and forest.
Also, it is the villu system from which the park gets its name. The meaning of Wilpattu is “The Land of Lakes” in English.
Moreover, thanks to the water network, the park has many predictable spots for animal concentration.
So, despite the massive scale, the chances of spotting wildlife here are excellent.
DetailInformationLocationNorth Western and North Central Provinces, near Puttalam and AnuradhapuraAreaApprox. 1,317 Square KilometersIt is Sri Lanka's Largest National ParkKey FeatureAround 60 Natural "Villu" Lakes Set in Dense Dry-Zone ForestSignature WildlifeSri Lankan LeopardSloth BearElephantSpotted DeerMugger CrocodileNearest CityAnuradhapura: Approximately 30 KmPuttalam: Approximately 40 KmRecommended Visiting MonthsFebruary to October
How To Reach Wilpattu National Park?
You can approach Wilpattu from the Cultural Triangle via Anuradhapura.
Also, you can take the northwestern coastal route via Puttalam and Kalpitiya.
Both these routes are straightforward and sealed.
However, the final stretch to the main Hunuwilagama entrance narrows into a quieter rural drive.
FromApproximate DistanceApproximate Drive TimeAnuradhapura30 Km45 MinutesPuttalam40 Km1 HourKalpitiya75 Km1.5–2 HoursColombo180 Km3.5–4 HoursNegombo150 Km3 Hours
Again, there is a second and less-used entrance on the Mannar side of the park.
It is for those travelling the north-south coastal route, though most safari operators and lodges are clustered around the main Hunuwilagama gate near Anuradhapura.
Inside The Park: My Safari Experience
I planned a full-day safari in Wilpattu National Park, and it was from 6 AM to around 4 PM.
A park safari is the best way to see Wilpattu properly. A half-day barely gets you past the entrance loop before you have to turn back.
The Villus: Wilpattu's Signature Lakes
The villus make the ecology of Wilpattu different than any other national park in Sri Lanka.
These are not man-made reservoirs. These are natural rain-fed lakes ringed with pale sand, and the jeep tracks are laid out to string several of them together.
Also, every meaningful sighting I had came from parking quietly at a villu edge and waiting rather than driving in search of animals.
Crocodiles were basking at the waterline, and elephants were drinking water. Finally, the leopard appeared along the treeline.
Leopards And The Chance Of A Sighting
Wilpattu is often described by naturalists as having a leopard density comparable to Yala's famous Block 1, without anywhere near the crowd.
Sightings are not guaranteed on any single visit, and practically no park can promise that.
However, the odds, combined with the calmer viewing experience when a leopard does appear, are a big part of why serious wildlife photographers increasingly prefer Wilpattu over Yala in peak season.
Elephants, Sloth Bears, And Birdlife
As I have mentioned, elephants are frequent around the villus and the drier months are the best time to spot them.
Also, the park has around 30 recorded mammal species, including sloth bear, water buffalo, sambar, and mongoose.
Furthermore, it has a strong birdlife presence. I could spot painted storks and several kingfisher species around the lake edges.
Peacocks and hornbills are more common sightings among birds in this park.
What Is The Best Time To Visit Wilpattu National Park?
You can take part in safaris year-round.
However, the park is ideal between February and October. These months are ideal for avoiding the heavier northeast monsoon rains.
Rain makes interior tracks difficult and reduces visibility.
Also, in a day, early morning and late afternoon remain the most productive windows for activity, as the midday heat pushes most animals into cover.
Entrance Fees And Safari Costs
Wilpattu is among Sri Lanka's higher-tier national parks for entrance pricing.
The entry fee is less than Yala National Park.
However, it is above smaller Category 2 parks.
Recent traveller reports and 2026 pricing guides put the all-in foreign adult entrance cost, including entry, service charge, vehicle fee, and VAT.
It is roughly USD 29–30 per person, with jeep hire priced separately and negotiated locally.
Fee ComponentApproximate Cost (Foreign Adult)Park EntranceServiceVehicleVATUSD 29.50 per AdultUSD 17.70 Per Child (6 to 12 Years)Guide/Tracker Fee$7 to $10It is Often Bundled into the Jeep PackageHalf-Day Jeep HireApproximately LKR 12,500 (6 AM to 10:30 AM)Full-Day Jeep HireApproximately LKR 25,000 (6 AM to 6 PM)
A Full-Day Wilpattu Itinerary
Given the park's size, a full day is genuinely worth the early start. Here is roughly how my day broke down.
TimeActivity5:30 AMDepart lodge and arrive at Hunuwilagama entrance.6:00–9:00 AMMorning safari loop through the northern villus. 9:00–9:30 AMBreakfast break at a designated stop inside the park.9:30 AM to 12:30 PMContinue tracking toward the larger central villus.12:30 PM to 1:30 PMMidday rest as animal activity drops with the heat.1:30 PM to 4:00 PMAfternoon loop, best window for leopard and elephant activity.
Where To Stay Near Wilpattu?
You can choose from simple guesthouses in Anuradhapura, which put you within easy reach of both Wilpattu and the ancient city's ruins, to dedicated eco-lodges and tented camps right on the park's buffer zone near Hunuwilagama.
Staying inside or immediately adjacent to the buffer zone shaves a meaningful amount off your pre-dawn drive time, which matters if you want to be at the gate for the 6 am opening.
The guesthouses in Wilpattu cost around LKR 3500 per night, and if you are staying in the ecolodges around the buffer zone, the charges will be approximately LKR 7500.
Tips From My Visit
A few things I would tell anyone planning a Wilpattu trip.
Book the full day rather than a half-day if your schedule allows, since the best villus are further from the entrance.
Pack your own food and water, as very little is available once you are inside. Also, pay for the jeep and entrance in Sri Lankan rupees only, since foreign currency isn't accepted at the gate.
Places To Visit Near The Wilpattu National Park
Wilpattu's location makes it an easy pairing with the cultural triangle.
Anuradhapura's ancient stupas and monasteries are barely half an hour away, and it is a natural stop for anyone routing between the north and the northwestern coast.
Travelers continuing toward the coast often carry on to Kalpitiya for kitesurfing and dolphin watching, or further north toward Mannar and Vavuniya.
Again, Chilaw, with its lagoon and temple circuit, also makes a workable stop if you're driving down from Wilpattu toward Colombo.
Amidst the concerns of poaching and irregularities, Kumana National Park remains one of the hotspots for wildlife encounters in Sri Lanka.
During my days in Sri Lanka, I had already done the Hurulu Eco Park Safari, a safari in the Kaudulla National Park.
Also, Kumana National Park was the third place I chose for a safari, where I had delightful encounters with elephants.
Though the park offers various jeep safaris, wildlife tours, and birdwatching tours, I planned it in a different way.
I opted for a wildlife ride from Arugam Bay to Kumana National Park instead of taking a safari tour inside.
I took a DIY route and rented a scooter for a day, and started from Arugam Bay, which was just 50 minutes away.
The rental charge was around LKR 2000.
Also, I chose it to make my experience of meeting these amazing animals in their natural habitat more memorable.
And in this article, I will share the adrenaline rush I had at Kumana National Park, the Kumana National Park safari prices, and more.
However, let’s start with where Kumana National Park is.
Where Is Kumana National Park?
The southeastern part of Sri Lanka has many gems, and Kumana National Park is surely one of them.
Around 50 km away from Arugam Bay, it shares a contiguous border with the Yala National Park.
Also, the beautiful Kumbukkan Oya River separates them.
In addition, it is located at a distance of around 391 km from Colombo via Panama.
Thanks to its location, the Kumana National Park is also known as Yala East.
It offers a more peaceful safari experience than neighboring Yala and other destinations, as it gets fewer vehicles.
Also, it has lagoons, dense mangrove forests, and the central Kumana Villu swamp.
Moreover, along with elephants, deer, leopards, and crocodiles, the Kumana National Park also has birds of different species.
In fact, it is a premier destination for bird watching with the presence of migratory waterfowl, painted storks, and black-necked storks.
My Experience Of The Kumana National Park Safari
Let me tell you, you will not be able to get inside the Kumana National Park on a scooter.
If you want a proper safari inside the park, you will have to be a part of the jeep tours.
The Ride
With my scooter plan sorted, I rode south of Arugam Bay and rode for ten kilometers, leading to the Kumana Park entrance.
It is an extension of the park, and it took around 1 hour to ride through the park stretch.
Now, as soon as I left Arugam Bay, I started noticing elephants, and there was a complete herd near the Elephant Rock.
They were busy among themselves in an open field.
However, the scooter ride became more adventurous after I passed through Panama.
The dirt roads start from here, and you feel that you are away from the bustling surfing town of Arugama Bay.
Then, the small roads took twists and turns, and they passed through wetlands and fields just outside the Kumana National Park.
Here, I could spot many wildlife variations, including water buffalo and deer.
The Visitor Center And The Kudumbigala Monastery
Next, I stopped at the visitor center at the park entrance and spent around 20 minutes there learning about the park and the wildlife there.
I continued my journey to the nearby Kudumbigala Monastery.
It was built in 246 BC and is a magnificent Buddhist hermitage spanning across 600 acres.
King Devanampiyatissa, the first Buddhist king of Sri Lanka, built it.
Kumana National Park Jeep Safaris
You have many options if you are planning a Kumana National Park jeep safari.
Have a look at the table below to know the Kumana National Park jeep safari details.
Types of Kumana National Park Jeep Safaris Kumana National Park Jeep Safari PriceMorning Jeep Safari $71 USD OnwardAfternoon Jeep Safari $71 USD OnwardFull-Day Kumana National Park Safari with Rice and Curry Lunch$97 USD OnwardKumana National Park and Panama Village$76 USD Onward
What Is The Best Time For A Kumana National Park Safari?
Late afternoon is the best time to spot an elephant at Kumana National Park.
This is the time when these adorable animals gather near water.
I also saw two crocodiles gliding into the water.
I even had a very close encounter with an adult elephant, and honestly, I was scared a little.
However, the mother elephant was unbothered, and she passed by showing her regal moves.
And also, I saw a peacock with all its feathers spread out. It was a lifetime experience for me.
Furthermore, season-wise, April to June, or the dry season in the eastern region, is the best time for a Kumana National Park jeep safari.
These months are also ideal for the nesting season of the local and migratory waterbirds in the Kumana Villu swamp.
So, in these months, you can spot egrets, herons, ibises, pelicans, and painted storks.
Where To Stay Near The Kumana National Park?
Panama is at a distance of 22 km. Arugam Bay.
It is also located around 50 km away.
So, these two are the best places to stay if you are planning a visit to the Kumana National Park.
However, do you want the most immersive experience?
You can plan a stay in the Kumana Mobile Tented Camp inside the Kumana National Park.
Here, you will stay in simple canvas tents, and the amenities will be basic.
You will get facilities such as a portable loo outside the camp and a fresh water supply for bathing.
For me, the biggest attraction in the camp was the communal area.
Everyone could sit there and have their food.
Furthermore, here you can find the best collection of wildlife books.
In addition, this camp offers excursions to hidden spots, pristine lagoons, and amazing viewpoints on a bicycle.
I chose the camp location close to the ocean.
Also, if you want, you can also find a camp closer to the jungle.
However, this is quite an expensive affair, and the tariff was around $330 per night.
My trip to Sri Lanka crossed many dramatic turns, especially in the Northern part of the country.
With Vavuniya feeling like a crossroads rather than a stopover and Mannar being a high point where the wind never stops, the next stop was Mullaitivu.
Mullaitivu was a name that I had only read about in the news archives.
Mullaitivu is even in the news today as the people of Keppapilavu have been protesting for days now for the return of their ancestral lands.
Thurairasa Ravikaran and Sivagnanam Shritharan, two Tamil parliamentarians, have shown their support and solidarity to this protest.
Nevertheless, while Trincomalee beaches and the rich culture of Jaffna dominate the conversations about Northern Sri Lanka, Mullaitivu surfaced as a place talking about the past.
In this article, I will talk about my two days in Mullaitivu, from the drive in to the lagoon that ended a war, and why I think this coastline deserves more than a passing mention on a map.
Why Mullaitivu Almost Stayed Off My List
The day I spent at Vavuniya, the guesthouse caretaker there, a soft-spoken man named Selvam, was the one who first brought up Mullaitivu.
About Mullaitivu, he mentioned,
“The beaches were empty, the lagoon was calm, and the town had not yet learned how to perform for tourists.”
This stirred me, as most travel forums I had checked mentioned Mullaitivu as a former war zone with a nice coastline and not much infrastructure.
While this is not false, this is only a fragmented picture of Mullaitivu.
How I Reached Mullaitivu
From Vavuniya, I took A34 to reach Mullaitivu. It was a distance of around 54 kilometers, and I reached within an hour and a half.
The road narrowed past Puthukkudiyiruppu, cutting through scrubland, paddy fields, and the occasional stretch of forest before the land flattens out toward the coast.
How Mullaitivu Felt At First Sight?
Mullaitivu was once a small fishing harbor.
It was a small fishing harbor and a stop for sailing vessels moving goods between Colombo and Jaffna in the early twentieth century.
Today, it also remains a fishing town, unbothered and unhurried by outsiders.
As I entered the town, my driver, Ravi, pointed out the old lighthouse. It was built in 1896, and it has lost its original iron frame.
So, when you visit the lighthouse today, you can only find a faded signboard.
Nevertheless, I spent my first evening walking along Mullaitivu Beach.
Fishing boats had gathered there, forming neat rows, and the nets were drying on the sand.
Also, it was most delightful to find children playing cricket on the sand with a tennis ball.
Being from the country where cricket is a religion, I joined them.
We bonded big time talking over big names such as Kumar Sangakkara and Kusal Mendis.
A few meters away from them, an elderly woman was mending a fishing net.
It felt like a scene from a Sanjeewa Pushpakumara movie. Like his films, Flying Fish and The Venishing, it was like a scene depicting the raw portrayal of survival.
What Are The Places To Visit In Mullaitivu?
I was not prepared for the amount of Civil War history Mullaitivu offered me.
Also, the birds and the sanctuary where the beach and lagoon meet allowed me to unwind with so many things going on in my head about life during and after the Civil War in Sri Lanka.
Nanthikadal Lagoon: Where The War Ended
At a glance, the Nanthikadal Lagoon looks like a shallow, sand-fringed body of water. It is on the northeastern edge of the district.
Small rivers feed it, and it finally opens into the Indian Ocean.
When I reached the lagoon, I found some egrets standing motionless in the shallows. Then, a kingfisher dropped into the water and came up empty.
Ravi then took me to an old man, a local school teacher called Rajan. He narrated the entire story of the Nanthikadal Lagoon to me.
What Happened At Nanthikadal Lagoon
The 26-year Civil War of Sri Lanka ended at Nanthikadal Lagoon in May 2009.
Here, the government forces cornered the last LTTE fighters. The group's leader, Velupillai Prabhakaran, was also killed.
In the weeks before that, civilians had been pushed into a shrinking strip of land along this same lagoon. They were between the fighting lines.
In a report published on 17th January 2009, The Guardian wrote,
“International concern is intensifying over the fate of around 350,000 civilians trapped in a rapidly shrinking rebel-controlled pocket of land in Sri Lanka's north east, as the military steps up its campaign to end the civil war by crushing the Tamil Tiger forces.
There is no specific count of the number of human casualties in these final months.
A 2011 UN Panel of Experts report stated that credible sources estimated as many as 40,000 civilian deaths.
Another report, published by The Times (UK) on 29th May 2009 based on confidential UN documents the paper obtained, reported that civilian deaths in the no-fire zone rose sharply from late April.
The deaths averaged around 1,000 killed per day until May 19, 2009. Thus, it had put the total civilian death toll at over 20,000. (Source: Al Jazeera).
The Sri Lankan Government has shown a much lower figure.
However, in the UN Rights Council: Act on Sri Lanka Report published on 13th September 2011, Brad Adams, the Asia director at Human Rights Watch, mentioned,
“When a UN Panel of Experts report concludes up to 40,000 civilians died amid war crimes, the Human Rights Council should feel compelled to act.
The council should order a full international investigation – anything less would be a shameful abdication of responsibility.”
How Nanthikadal Lagoon Looks Back At Those Days Every Year
Tamil families gather at Mullivaikkal, close to the lagoon, on 19th May every year to remember relatives lost in the final days.
They light lamps and plant coconut saplings in their memory.
Standing at the water's edge, with fishermen casting nets a short distance away, I found it hard to reconcile the stillness in front of me with what this ground had witnessed.
The Victory Monument, The Museum, And The Submarines
The Puthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument was on the Paranthan-Mullaitivu road, which was a short drive from the lagoon.
It was unveiled in 2019, and it depicts a soldier carrying the national flag.
Furthermore, the surrounding pond and lilies represent the ocean around the island and the nation itself.
An adjoining war museum displays weapons, vehicles, and vessels used during the conflict's final phase.
Entry to the museum was free, and it remains open from 8 AM to 5 PM.
Also nearby, there were rusted hulls, and it was the site where the government troops discovered an abandoned Sea Tiger boatyard in 2009.
It is where the LTTE's naval wing used to build improvised submarines and semi-submersible craft.
I want to be honest about something here.
This is a site that different communities in Sri Lanka read very differently, and I do not think a two-day visit qualifies anyone to settle that.
What I can say is that visiting both the lagoon and the monument on the same day gave me a fuller, more uncomfortable picture than either would have alone.
The Kokkilai Lagoon: Where The Coastline Turns Peaceful Again
On the second afternoon, I drove out to Kokkilai Lagoon.
It was a wetland sanctuary around 25 kilometers southeast of town.
It has been a protected bird sanctuary since 1951, and I could spot pelicans, herons, and occasional flamingos moving along the shallows.
The crowd of birdwatchers was small, and the overall ambiance was quiet.
Chundikulam
Further along the coast, Chundikulam allowed me to relax. It was a sanctuary with no visitors.
I quietly cherished the view of the beach and lagoon blurring into one uninterrupted stretch of sand and water.
Coming back from Chundikulam, I had some spicy crab curry and rice at a roadside stall. It was similar to what I had in Jaffna, but it tasted even better.
Ravi said, “It was the only reason to end the day here.”
My Two Days In Mullaitivu: The Itinerary
Day TimeActivities/Places to VisitDay 1MorningDrive from Vavuniya via the A34MiddayCheck-in and Walk through Mullaitivu TownAfternoonNanthikadal Lagoon and the CausewayEveningMullaitivu Beach at SunsetDay 2MorningPuthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument and War MuseumMiddaySea Tiger Submarine YardAfternoonKokkilai Lagoon BirdwatchingEveningChundikulam Coastline and Seafood Dinner
Mullaitivu: A Quiet Place That Asks You To Listen
Away from the grandeur of Kandy and Colombo, Mullaitivu is a place that simply exists.
It tells the stories of human survival, and it is still recovering and fishing despite the stains and the lives lost in the Civil War.
So, if you are already tracing the north of Sri Lanka through Vavuniya, Kilinochchi, or Mannar, I would not leave Mullaitivu off the route.
Just go with the understanding that this is not a beach add-on. It is a place that holds two very different stories at once, and it does not owe you a tidy conclusion to either.