Mullaitivu Tourist Places And The Coastline That Taught Me How Silence Speaks

My trip to Sri Lanka crossed many dramatic turns, especially in the Northern part of the country. 

With Vavuniya feeling like a crossroads rather than a stopover and Mannar being a high point where the wind never stops, the next stop was Mullaitivu. 

Mullaitivu was a name that I had only read about in the news archives. 

Mullaitivu is even in the news today as the people of Keppapilavu have been protesting for days now for the return of their ancestral lands. 

Thurairasa Ravikaran and Sivagnanam Shritharan, two Tamil parliamentarians, have shown their support and solidarity to this protest. 

Nevertheless, while Trincomalee beaches and the rich culture of Jaffna dominate the conversations about Northern Sri Lanka, Mullaitivu surfaced as a place talking about the past. 

In this article, I will talk about my two days in Mullaitivu, from the drive in to the lagoon that ended a war, and why I think this coastline deserves more than a passing mention on a map.

Why Mullaitivu Almost Stayed Off My List

The day I spent at Vavuniya, the guesthouse caretaker there, a soft-spoken man named Selvam, was the one who first brought up Mullaitivu.

About Mullaitivu, he mentioned, 

The beaches were empty, the lagoon was calm, and the town had not yet learned how to perform for tourists.

This stirred me, as most travel forums I had checked mentioned Mullaitivu as a former war zone with a nice coastline and not much infrastructure.

While this is not false, this is only a fragmented picture of Mullaitivu.

How I Reached Mullaitivu

From Vavuniya, I took A34 to reach Mullaitivu. It was a distance of around 54 kilometers, and I reached within an hour and a half. 

The road narrowed past Puthukkudiyiruppu, cutting through scrubland, paddy fields, and the occasional stretch of forest before the land flattens out toward the coast.

How Mullaitivu Felt At First Sight? 

How Mullaitivu Felt At First Sight

Mullaitivu was once a small fishing harbor. 

It was a small fishing harbor and a stop for sailing vessels moving goods between Colombo and Jaffna in the early twentieth century. 

Today, it also remains a fishing town, unbothered and unhurried by outsiders. 

As I entered the town, my driver, Ravi, pointed out the old lighthouse. It was built in 1896, and it has lost its original iron frame. 

So, when you visit the lighthouse today, you can only find a faded signboard. 

Nevertheless, I spent my first evening walking along Mullaitivu Beach. 

Fishing boats had gathered there, forming neat rows, and the nets were drying on the sand. 

Also, it was most delightful to find children playing cricket on the sand with a tennis ball. 

Being from the country where cricket is a religion, I joined them.

We bonded big time talking over big names such as Kumar Sangakkara and Kusal Mendis. 

A few meters away from them, an elderly woman was mending a fishing net. 

It felt like a scene from a Sanjeewa Pushpakumara movie. Like his films, Flying Fish and The Venishing, it was like a scene depicting the raw portrayal of survival. 

What Are The Places To Visit In Mullaitivu? 

I was not prepared for the amount of Civil War history Mullaitivu offered me. 

Also, the birds and the sanctuary where the beach and lagoon meet allowed me to unwind with so many things going on in my head about life during and after the Civil War in Sri Lanka. 

Nanthikadal Lagoon: Where The War Ended

At a glance, the Nanthikadal Lagoon looks like a shallow, sand-fringed body of water. It is on the northeastern edge of the district.

Small rivers feed it, and it finally opens into the Indian Ocean. 

When I reached the lagoon, I found some egrets standing motionless in the shallows. Then, a kingfisher dropped into the water and came up empty.

Ravi then took me to an old man, a local school teacher called Rajan. He narrated the entire story of the Nanthikadal Lagoon to me. 

What Happened At Nanthikadal Lagoon 

The 26-year Civil War of Sri Lanka ended at Nanthikadal Lagoon in May 2009. 

Here, the government forces cornered the last LTTE fighters. The group’s leader, Velupillai Prabhakaran, was also killed. 

In the weeks before that, civilians had been pushed into a shrinking strip of land along this same lagoon. They were between the fighting lines.

In a report published on 17th January 2009, The Guardian wrote, 

International concern is intensifying over the fate of around 350,000 civilians trapped in a rapidly shrinking rebel-controlled pocket of land in Sri Lanka’s north east, as the military steps up its campaign to end the civil war by crushing the Tamil Tiger forces.

There is no specific count of the number of human casualties in these final months.

  • A 2011 UN Panel of Experts report stated that credible sources estimated as many as 40,000 civilian deaths.
  • Another report, published by The Times (UK) on 29th May 2009 based on confidential UN documents the paper obtained, reported that civilian deaths in the no-fire zone rose sharply from late April.

The deaths averaged around 1,000 killed per day until May 19, 2009. Thus, it had put the total civilian death toll at over 20,000. (Source: Al Jazeera). 

The Sri Lankan Government has shown a much lower figure.  

However, in the UN Rights Council: Act on Sri Lanka Report published on 13th September 2011, Brad Adams, the Asia director at Human Rights Watch, mentioned, 

When a UN Panel of Experts report concludes up to 40,000 civilians died amid war crimes, the Human Rights Council should feel compelled to act.

The council should order a full international investigation – anything less would be a shameful abdication of responsibility.

How Nanthikadal Lagoon Looks Back At Those Days Every Year

Tamil families gather at Mullivaikkal, close to the lagoon, on 19th May every year to remember relatives lost in the final days. 

They light lamps and plant coconut saplings in their memory. 

Standing at the water’s edge, with fishermen casting nets a short distance away, I found it hard to reconcile the stillness in front of me with what this ground had witnessed.

The Victory Monument, The Museum, And The Submarines

The Puthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument was on the Paranthan-Mullaitivu road, which was a short drive from the lagoon. 

It was unveiled in 2019, and it depicts a soldier carrying the national flag. 

Furthermore, the surrounding pond and lilies represent the ocean around the island and the nation itself. 

An adjoining war museum displays weapons, vehicles, and vessels used during the conflict’s final phase.

Entry to the museum was free, and it remains open from 8 AM to 5 PM. 

Also nearby, there were rusted hulls, and it was the site where the government troops discovered an abandoned Sea Tiger boatyard in 2009. 

It is where the LTTE’s naval wing used to build improvised submarines and semi-submersible craft. 

I want to be honest about something here.

This is a site that different communities in Sri Lanka read very differently, and I do not think a two-day visit qualifies anyone to settle that. 

What I can say is that visiting both the lagoon and the monument on the same day gave me a fuller, more uncomfortable picture than either would have alone.

The Kokkilai Lagoon:  Where The Coastline Turns Peaceful Again

On the second afternoon, I drove out to Kokkilai Lagoon. 

It was a wetland sanctuary around 25 kilometers southeast of town. 

It has been a protected bird sanctuary since 1951, and I could spot pelicans, herons, and occasional flamingos moving along the shallows. 

The crowd of birdwatchers was small, and the overall ambiance was quiet. 

Chundikulam

Further along the coast, Chundikulam allowed me to relax. It was a sanctuary with no visitors. 

I quietly cherished the view of the beach and lagoon blurring into one uninterrupted stretch of sand and water.

Coming back from Chundikulam, I had some spicy crab curry and rice at a roadside stall. It was similar to what I had in Jaffna, but it tasted even better. 

Ravi said, “It was the only reason to end the day here.” 

My Two Days In Mullaitivu: The Itinerary 

Day TimeActivities/Places to Visit
Day 1MorningDrive from Vavuniya via the A34
MiddayCheck-in and Walk through Mullaitivu Town
AfternoonNanthikadal Lagoon and the Causeway
EveningMullaitivu Beach at Sunset
Day 2MorningPuthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument and War Museum
MiddaySea Tiger Submarine Yard
AfternoonKokkilai Lagoon Birdwatching
EveningChundikulam Coastline and Seafood Dinner

Mullaitivu: A Quiet Place That Asks You To Listen 

Away from the grandeur of Kandy and Colombo, Mullaitivu is a place that simply exists.

It tells the stories of human survival, and it is still recovering and fishing despite the stains and the lives lost in the Civil War. 

So, if you are already tracing the north of Sri Lanka through Vavuniya, Kilinochchi, or Mannar, I would not leave Mullaitivu off the route. 

Just go with the understanding that this is not a beach add-on. It is a place that holds two very different stories at once, and it does not owe you a tidy conclusion to either.

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Sibashree is a travel, culture, and leisure writer who has been writing since the age of 12 and professionally since 2014. With more than a decade of travel writing experience and journeys across India and several parts of the world, she brings a deeply personal and thoughtful perspective to her work. A student of English Literature and Mass Communication, Sibashree has always viewed travel as more than movement — for her, it has been a way of understanding people, cultures, and herself. Her passion for spiritual exploration has also led her to many unusual and meaningful destinations over the years. Outside of writing, Sibashree enjoys watching European cinema, reading about global politics, and reflecting on the stories hidden within everyday places.

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READ MORE Osaka food

Osaka Food: Know What To Eat In The Streets Of Osaka 

BY  Sibashree Mar 27, 2026

Osaka food is slowly and steadily surpassing Tokyo as the poster for Japanese cuisine.  Furthermore, it has been just a few days since La Cime in Osaka became the best restaurant in Japan in the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list in 2026.   However, the soul of the Osaka food lies in the streets. The Dotonbori neighborhood was especially the best when I visited.  In fact, I was so much in love with the street food here that I chose to cancel the previous booking and chose a hotel in Dotonbori instead.  Also, the Dotonbori Market was the epicenter of my food exploration in Osaka.  Moreover, how can you ever forget what Anthony Bourdain had to say about food in Osaka? He said,  “I’m a big believer in winging it. I’m a big believer that you’re never going to find the perfect city travel experience or the perfect meal without a constant willingness to experience a bad one.  Letting the happy accident happen is what a lot of vacation itineraries miss, I think, and I’m always trying to push people to allow those things to happen rather than stick to some rigid itinerary.” So, let’s explore Osaka food at its best in Dotonbori. What Are The Best Osaka Food You Can Try On The Streets?  Osaka, despite its funky and vibrant appearance, has a history that goes back to the Edo Period in the 17th century.  Furthermore, it was a major trading hub during that period. Also, it was the same time when Osaka earned the nickname “Japan’s Kitchen.”  Moreover, Dotonbori extends across a canal that reaches out to the sea. 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Then, you will love these Japanese savory pancakes even more.  Okonomiyaki has all the flavors. However, you never feel heavy after having them. Furthermore, these pancakes are simple, as cabbage, flour, and eggs are the main ingredients.  However, the local street vendors add seafood and scallions to the dish for more flavor and color.  Also, they serve it with barbecue sauce.  3. Daifuku Mochi Pocket Pinch: 350-400 JPY Mochi, the round rice cake, is a staple Japanese delicacy.  It has the chewiness of Mitarashi-Dango. However, it has filling as the daifuku part of the name suggests.  I loved the ones with strawberry filling, and you can also try them with other fruits.  4. Torikara Pocket-Pinch: 300-400 JPY If the USA has its deep-fried chicken, Japan also has Torikara.  I loved them, and the fried potatoes and the variety of sauces will be the most amazing additions.  5. Takoyaki Pocket Pinch: 700-800 JPY  Takoyaki is probably the most famous street food of Osaka and Japan.  Japanese people love these octopus balls, and that’s why the Takoyaki stalls in Dotonbori are countless.  Furthermore, the scallions and flakes of dried fish sprinkled on top make the dish really amazing.  Moreover, the batter is gooey, and it will melt in your mouth.  6. Taiyaki Pocket Pinch: 300 JPY This is a fish-shaped pastry and my silent favorite among everything I tried in Osaka.  The smell is irresistible, and the main attraction is to see it getting ready in front of your eyes.  You can have this vanilla-flavored pastry with cheese, custard, and hamburger meat. However, the red bean paste is the ideal choice if you want to follow the grammar of East Asian cuisine. 7. Udon Pocket Pinch: 650 JPY The hot broth and noodles! I know that I have kept you waiting for the longest time to find this lethal combination on my list.  The noodles in Udon are thick, and with the right seasoning, their taste grows on you. That’s why you can eat udon every day and not get bored.  Furthermore, there are many variations of udon, such as the curry udon, yaki-udon, nabeyaki udon, and tempura udon.  8. Soba Pocket Pinch: 400 JPY Soba has buckwheat noodles in hot broth. Furthermore, these noodles are darker and thinner.  Furthermore, the simplicity of the dish and flavors make it a perfect palate cleanser.  I loved a bowl of soba with scallions.  9. Ramen Pocket Pinch: 700-800 JPY Ramen, of course, is the quintessential wheat noodles the whole world has been eating for quite some time now.  I tried different variations of ramen in Osaka. However, I loved the one with pork the best.  10. Yakitori Pocket Pinch: 1000-1100 JPY Yakitori is the Japanese take on grilled meat.  Furthermore, you will get many variations in the meat used here. You will get bone meat, chicken skin, seafood, and many other varieties here.  11. Sushi  Pocket Pinch: 1200 JPY If Sushi is an emotion, then it runs in the veins of Osaka.  From sea urchin to tuna, eel, and salmon, Osaka spoils you with choices in sushi.  Furthermore, the art of eating sushi is something that you need to understand. It is just not about gulping down some food.  It’s also about being a part of the Japanese culture.  12. Taiko Manju Pocket Pinch: 100-150 JPY You may think that Taiko Manju and Taiyaki are the same, but the origin and texture are very different.  Despite the use of the same ingredients, Taiko Manju is fluffier. Furthermore, their drum shape is inspired by the taiko drums, which are integral parts of Japanese festivals.  Read Also: What Are The Best Day Trips From Tokyo? 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READ MORE Ella, Sri Lanka

What Are The Things To Do In Ella, Sri Lanka? A Narrative Of My Days In Ella

BY  Sibashree Mar 24, 2026

Ella is one of Sri Lanka's most beautiful towns.  Also, Ella is a place where many of my favorite Sri Lankan adventures are.  My first sighting of the famous Nine Arch Bridge, one of my first hikes at Ella Rock, standing at the edge of the roaring Diyaluma Falls, and many more.  Perhaps the most famous train ride in the world, from Kandy, passes through Ella as well. Ella is a quaint and beautiful town and is a great place to escape the heat of the southern coasts. However, over the last decade, this quaint little hamlet has become a large tourist destination.  Unfortunately, the growth has also brought some concrete eyesores to the village.  There is still plenty of magic to be discovered here, if you are willing to move beyond the Instagram hotspots. Having undertaken two comprehensive visits to this beautiful hill-country retreat, I have compiled the ultimate portfolio of things to do in Ella, Sri Lanka. What Are The Things To Do In Ella, Sri Lanka?  Despite the changes in Ella, Sri Lanka, the mountain ranges are just as majestic as they were years ago. Furthermore, the tea served is still some of the finest in the world. Moreover, people here are still warm.  And the most fascinating part?  Ella always brings out the explorer in you. How can you avoid the lure of riding in an open-air train or leaning over the edge of a waterfall?  Here is more about the exciting things to do in Ella, Sri Lanka.  1. Riding The Iconic Kandy To Ella Train The Kandy to Ella train ride is the best thing you will do in Sri Lanka.  The train passes through tea plantations and crosses gushing streams.  And you cannot expect less from a route that has been labelled by many as the most picturesque train ride in the world.  However, the train ride also allows you to indulge in the local vibe with local vendors hawking through the rush and the local boys singing and playing drums during the journey.  Also, the Nanu Oya to Ella scratch is the most beautiful in the entire route. Also, don’t go for a 1st class ticket and reserve a 3rd class class to enjoy the views through open windows.  2. Admiring  The Famous Nine Arch Bridge It’s astonishing to think that a single bridge could drive tourists in droves to a small town, but the Nine Arch Bridge is an engineering marvel that demands to be seen.  Standing 24 meters high and spanning 91 meters, it was completed in 1921 using only brick, rock, and cement, and there is no metal at all. When the mist hangs low in the valley, the bridge takes on a moody, mystical feel.  You can walk along the tracks or look down from the tea plantations below, but my favorite view is from the cafe platforms in the surrounding hills.  Watching the blue train slowly crawl across the arches is a sight I’ll never forget. 3. Hiking The Mighty Ella Rock  The hike to the mighty Ella Rock starts from the Ella railway station. It was a walk with waterfalls and small homes on the way.  Then, the steep ascent began.  After reaching the top, you will get a beautiful view of Adam’s Peak and Ella Gap. 4. 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Feeling The Mythological Connection At Ravana Falls  Ravana Falls is right by the road south of Ella.  Locals say that King Ravana took Princess Sita and hid her in the caves behind Ravana Falls.  Furthermore, you can see the Ravana Falls from the road. However, it is best if you hike to the second and third tiers.  7. Taking A Seat With Sir Thomas Lipton Tea is the lifeblood of this region, and a visit to Lipton’s Seat is a journey to the source.  This is the exact spot where tea mogul Sir Thomas Lipton used to sit and survey his empire.  On a clear day, you can see all the way to the south coast. Even on the foggy day I visited, sipping a fresh cup of Ceylon tea (the best I’ve ever had) while the clouds swirled around the summit was incredibly atmospheric. 8. Taking A Tour Of The Dambethenne Tea Factory When you go to the high country, you must learn the actual science of the making of your brew. I visited the tea company founded by Lipton himself in 1890 and saw how it was picked, wilted, fermented, and graded. All of these were new to me as an individual who drinks a lot of tea.  About 80% of this tea is sold in Colombo and then exported around the world. I especially found the fermenting room to be extremely interesting. 9. Feel The Adrenaline Rush At Flying Ravana If you need a break from the hiking, Ella recently opened Sri Lanka’s first-ever zip-line.  It stretches half a kilometer across the hills and hits speeds of 80kmph.  For around $20 USD, it’s one of the best value adrenaline fixes I’ve ever found. It’s located near the 98 Acres resort, making it a perfect way to end a trip to Little Adam’s Peak. 10. Mastering The Art Of The Curry At Ella, Sri Lanka  In my opinion, Sri Lanka has the best food (after my country, of course)! If you want to bring back a little bit of Sri Lanka to your home country, then you should try taking a cooking class.  Also, if you don’t have enough time, just try the food streets.  For me, it was a brilliant consolidation of my food tour in Jaffna. Though the food in Ella is creamier and less spicy than in Jaffna.  11. Witnessing The Grandeur Of Bambarakanda Falls The Bambarakanda Falls is the tallest waterfall in the country, and it falls from a height of 241 meters.  You can take a short hike or a tuk-tuk to reach the Bambarakanda Falls from Ella.  Then, stand at the base and feel the sheer power of that vertical drop.  Moreover, to enjoy the best flow of this waterfall, plan a visit between April and September.  12. Spotting The Elephants At Udawalawe Like the Kaudulla National Park, the Udawalawe National Park is also a great place for spotting elephants in the wild.  Ella is the base for a safari in the Udawalawe National Park.  I opted for an early morning safari, and I spotted adorable baby elephants with their mothers.  Don’t Forget To Party And Chill In Ella, Sri Lanka  Like Jaffna, a backpacker’s dream, Ella has also emerged as a hub for backpackers and budget travelers.  Ella Town is still a great place to unwind, and places such as Cafe Chill are at the epicenter of these scenes.  You can have some really good burgers and Lion Beer at some of these recognized cafes.  Moreover, when you spend time at these cafes, you don’t rush from one place to another, but study the local culture and understand how a country, ridden by cyclones, endless civil wars, and financial crisis, can still be the land of sunshine. 

READ MORE Devon Falls

Devon Falls, Nuwara Eliya: Know The Timings, Entry Fee, Experience, How To Reach And More

BY  Sibashree Aug 29, 2026

Like how I had pulled over for St. Clair's Fall, the same thing happened a few kilometers along the A7.   The driver asked me not to keep my camera aside yet, and suddenly the hillside opened up.   There was a long, narrow ribbon of white water dropping almost straight down into a gorge of tea bushes.  It was Devon Falls, the “Veil of the Valley” in Sri Lanka’s Tea Country. The name comes from how it falls a long way.   So, it more than makes up for the lack of width compared to St. Clair's Waterfall. Here is more about this beautiful waterfall that should be on your Sri Lanka itinerary the next time you visit.   Some Quick Facts About Devon Falls, Nuwara Eliya   Details  Information Height Around 97 Meters Number of Drops  3 Tiers River A Tributary of the Kotmale Oya, Part of the Mahaweli River System Location 6 KM West of Talawakele, Nuwara Eliya District, Central Province Elevation Around 1140 Meters Above Sea Level Entry Fee Free and Viewable from Roadside Platform Nickname The Veil of the Valley Rank 19th Highest Waterfall in Sri Lanka  Where Is Devon Falls And How To Get There? Around 6 kilometers west of Talawakele, Devon Falls is on the A7 highway that connects Colombo to Nuwara Eliya via Hatton.  This waterfall in the Nuwara Eliya District is at an elevation of around 1140 meters. It is in the heart of the Dimbula tea-growing region.   From Nuwara Eliya  The distance between Nuwara Eliya and Devon Waterfall is around 30 kilometers. I took a car from Nuwara Eliya, and it cost me around 3000 LKR.   You can also take a tuk-tuk, which costs around LKR 2000.   The road passes directly above the falls. So, even before you reach the viewpoint, you will get your first glimpse of it through the windscreen.  From Kandy Or Colombo  If you are traveling from Kandy by road, you will reach Devon Falls within 2 to 2.5 hours via Gampola and Nawalapitiya.   Furthermore, from Colombo, it is a 4-hour drive on the Avissawella–Hatton route. Since it is a long journey from Colombo, you can pair it with a night in Hatton or Nuwara Eliya rather than a same-day round trip.  On Foot From The Road  There are two designated car parks along the A7 that double as observation platforms.   Both offer a clear view of the three-tiered drop without any walking required.   If you want a closer look, a short trail leads about a kilometre through the surrounding tea estate toward the base, though the pool itself is not easy to reach.  The Story Behind The Name Of Devon Falls Devon Falls gets its name from Devon, a pioneering English coffee planter.   His plantation once occupied the land nearby.   When coffee cultivation collapsed across Sri Lanka's hill country in the late 19th century due to a leaf-rust blight, tea took its place.  Today, the falls tumble past neat rows of tea bushes rather than coffee, though the name from that earlier era stuck.  What I found most memorable about Devon Falls was not just its height, but how sudden it feels.   St. Clair's spreads its water wide and slow.  Devon narrows it and lets it drop, almost in a single unbroken curtain through the first two tiers before spreading again near the base.   Moreover, standing at the main viewpoint opposite the Mlesna Tea Centre, you get the full length of the fall in one frame, framed by steep, green escarpments on both sides.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Devon Falls?  Season Months What to Expect Wet Season May to September Fuller, more dramatic flow, though mist can obscure the view Dry Season December to March Clearer skies, better for photography, lighter flow Early Morning Any Season, Before 9 AM Less roadside traffic and softer light on the water  Pairing Devon Falls With St. Clair's Because the two falls sit only a few kilometres apart on the same road, almost nobody visits just one.   St. Clair's is the wider, more famous of the pair, while Devon is the taller and, to my eye, the more dramatic.   Seeing both in a single stop along the A7 takes less than half a day, which makes this stretch of road one of the most efficient sightseeing detours in the hill country.  A One-Day Itinerary Around Devon Falls Here's how I'd plan a day trip centred on Devon Falls, starting from Nuwara Eliya or Hatton.  Time Stop Note  8:30 AM Depart Nuwara Eliya or Hatton Aim to reach the falls before the midday tour-bus crowds.  9:30 AM St. Clair's Falls Roadside viewpoint, about 6 km east of Devon.  10:30 AM Devon Falls View from the main platform opposite Mlesna Tea Centre.  11:15 AM Tea estate walk or factory visit Several estates in Dimbula offer short tours.  12:30 PM Lunch in Talawakele Local rice-and-curry spots along the main road.  2:00 PM Onward to Hatton or Nuwara Eliya Or continue toward Adam's Peak if timing allows.   Practical Tips For A Visit To Devon Falls  Both viewpoints are roadside, so no hiking is required if you just want the classic photo.  Traffic along the A7 can be heavy with tour vans in the late morning. So, an early start helps.  Skip swimming here. The pool is difficult to access, and the currents near the base are not considered safe.  Pack a light jacket. At over 1,100 m elevation, mornings can be genuinely chilly even in the dry season.  We only stopped for about fifteen minutes at Devon Falls.  However, it was one of those places that have stayed with me. That long, narrow drop through the tea hills, half-hidden in mist, is hard to shake.