Hurulu Eco Park Safari: Exploring The Wilder Side Of Sri Lanka

BY  Sibashree Jul 9, 2026

Kurunegala has recently been in the news due to infrastructure development. The cabinet meeting granted the construction of stage 1 of phase 4 of the Central Expressway Project.  It will connect Kurunegala and Dambulla, which is famous for the iconic Dambulla Royal Cave Temple.  The Road Development Authority (RDA) has further confirmed that the extension work will start in November 2026.  However, Kurunegala has always been a melting pot for the cultural hub of Kandy, Puttalam, Negombo and the country’s capital, Colombo.  Also, as the capital of the northwestern province, it holds massive strategic and political importance.  Where Is Kurunegala?  Kurunegala is in the north-western interior of Sri Lanka.  As the capital of the Kurunegala District and the North-Western Province, it also functions as a major transportation hub.  Furthermore, it is around 94 kilometers northeast of the country’s capital, Colombo. In addition, the distance between Kandy and Kurunegala is just 42 km.  How To Reach Kurunegala? While traveling from Colombo, Kandy is the gateway to reach Kurunegala. I took a bus from the Kandy Goods Shed Bus Stand.  Buses run regularly from Kandy to Kurunegala, or route 602, and the journey via Katugastota-Kurunegala Road (A10) takes around 1.5 to 2 hours.  I traveled in a regular bus, and the ticket price was LKR 200. Semi-luxury, luxury, and super-luxury bus options are also available on this route, and the ticket prices will be between LKR 350 and LKR 600.  Why Is Kurunegala Famous? Ancient Royal History! Majestic Geology!  An Agricultural Powerhouse!  These are the three main reasons behind Kurunegala’s prominent position in the tourism landscape of Sri Lanka.  The Capital Of Ancient Kingdoms From the late 13th to the early 14th century, Kurunegala was the royal Capital of Sri Lanka.  It was known as Hasthishaila-pura earlier, and under the rule of kings like Buwanekabahu II and Parakramabahu IV, it safeguarded the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha. Also, including the Yapahuwa rock fortress, the silver cave temple of Ridi Viharaya, and the ancient ruins of Panduwasnuwara, the city has many historic ruins and citadels.  The City Of Animal Rocks A ring of eight massive ancient granite outcrops encircles Kurunegala. These granite outcrops, suddenly rising from the plains, look surreal.  Furthermore, my guide told me a fascinating folklore about these outcrops.  “Kurunegala once faced a severe drought. Then, a witch turned water-guzzling animals into stone. In fact, some of these rocks are famously named after the animals their silhouettes resemble.” For example, Athugala looks like an elephant, Ibbagala looks like the back of a tortoise, and Andagala resembles an eel.  The Heart Of The Coconut Triangle Kurunegala, like Kalutara, is famous for rubber estates. It also has endless coconut plantations.  In fact, it is located inside the “Coconut Triangle" of Sri Lanka. So, overall, it is a prominent commercial hub for agricultural production.  Moreover, it is the cradle of Selyn, Sri Lanka’s only fair-trade guaranteed handloom company. So, it is also a critical center for preserving the island's traditional textile heritage. What Are The Places To Visit In Kurunegala?  Kurunegala offers the ultimate off-the-beaten-path experience in Sri Lanka.  For me, the most fascinating places to visit here are the ancient rocks and the spiritual landmarks.  While these connect you to history, the scenic waterways and modern sanctuaries allow you to unwind and soak in the local vibe.  1. Athugala Rock Temple  Athugala dominates the skyline of Kurunegala.  This outcrop has a height of 325 meters, and it gets its name from its uncanny resemblance to a giant, crouching elephant (Atha meaning elephant and Gala meaning rock). Furthermore, once I reached the summit, I found a magnificent Buddha statue of 88 feet in height.  You can take a car ride to reach the summit. However, I preferred a trek through the stone steps.  Fortunately, I reached the summit at sunset. So, the experience was magical.  2. Ridi Vihariya Or The Silver Temple  Ridi Viharaya connects us to the 2nd century BCE. This ancient cave temple is around 20 kilometers away from the main town in Rideegama.  King Dutugemunu discovered a rich vein of silver ore here. Then he used the silver ore to finance the construction of the famous Ruwanweli Maha Seya in Anuradhapura. Furthermore, Ridi Vihariya is hidden by rocky cliffs and forest cover. Also, it is home to a magnificent reclining Buddha statue, Kandyan-era frescoes, and ivory carvings.  3. Yapahuwa Rock Fortress The Yapahuwa Rock Fortress is often compared to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress.  Yapahuwa was the capital of Sri Lanka under King Bhuvanekabahu I in the late 13th century.  Furthermore, the temple is constructed against a sheer, 200-meter-high granite rock that juts dramatically out of the surrounding jungle. Moreover, it has a highly ornamental staircase. Stone lions and intricate carvings adorn the path.  What is more fascinating than these steps, which once led to the royal palace and the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic? 4. Panduwasnuwara Ancient City Panduwasnuwara, which served as a temporary capital in the 12th century, is a dramatic ruin site. It has a well-defined citadel surrounded by protective moats and thick ramparts. Furthermore, inside the citadel, there are the foundations of a two-tiered royal palace, complete with ancient latrines and footings for wooden pillars. However, the Ektem Maligaya, or the perfectly circular tower, was the most fascinating feature of the Panduwasnuwara ancient city.  Local folklore links it to romantic legends of hidden princesses, while historians believe it was used by King Parakramabahu for swearing-in allegiance rituals. 5. Kurunegala Lake (Rantalia Tank) Kurunegala Lake is the ultimate place to unwind after a busy day. It is at the foot of the animal rocks.  I loved walking along the well-paved path hugging the banks. You can also do a pedal-boat ride on the lake.  Furthermore, you can just relax sitting in the nearby restaurants and trying authentic Sri Lankan cuisine.  6. Arankele Forest Hermitage Arankele is a meditation retreat. It was originally built for austere Buddhist monks, and with untouched jungle, it still exudes a strong spiritual vibe.  As I walked through the stone-paved paths, I came across the ancient Padhanagharas or meditation halls, sun-dappled ponds, cave dwellings, and Jantagharas or the houses for hot water baths.  The hermitage is covered by a dense canopy, keeping it quiet and cool, and here, you will only listen to distant bird calls and the rustle of leaves. Where To Stay In Kurunegala?  Kurunegala offers accommodation options that cater perfectly to both city-center conveniences and quiet countryside getaways. In Kurunegala, you can choose your accommodation based on the kind of experience you want.  Here, you will find options that cater perfectly to both city-center conveniences and quiet countryside getaways. City Hotels And Business Stays If you want to stay close to the city, Kandyan Reach Hotel is an excellent option.  It has comfortable rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and proximity to major transport lines.  Also, it is a mid-range choice for travelers exploring the downtown rocks. Nature Resorts And Luxury Estates If you love tranquility, you can choose the eco-lodges in the surrounding districts or the heritage properties inside the coconut plantations.  For example, the Coco Forest Resort offers an excellent farm-stay experience.

BY  Sibashree Sep 18, 2026

It was around 8 AM when I reached Abhayagiri.  The heat was still bearable, and I noticed the top third of the stupa rising over the trees while waiting in the ticketing queue.   It was a massive brick-red dome.  I had already spent a day in the southern half of the Sacred City of Anuradhapura, exploring Ruwanwelisaya and Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi.   So, I had an image in my mind of what a Sri Lankan dagoba looked like.   However, Abhayagiri changed my perception within minutes.   For me, it was the site that helped me understand the actual scale of Anuradhapura.   The scale is beyond the fact that it is the tallest stupa standing.   Furthermore, the ponds, the moonstones, and the collapsed monastic halls scattered through the forest show how it used to be a small city of five thousand monks.   Abhayagiri At A Glance   Fact   Detail  Location   Northern sector of the Sacred City, Anuradhapura Archaeological Park, North Central Province   Built   1st century BCE, by King Vattagamini Abhaya (Valagamba), during his second reign   Original height  More than 100 meters, comparable in scale to the pyramids of Giza and to the nearby Jetavanaramaya.   Current height   Around 75 meters after multiple restorations  Tradition  Uttara Vihara ("Northern Monastery"), historic centre of Mahayana and Vajrayana influence within Sri Lankan Theravada Buddhism   Status   Part of the Sacred City of Anuradhapura UNESCO World Heritage Site (inscribed 1982)   Major restoration   15-year Central Cultural Fund/UNESCO project completed and unveiled in June 2015   Nearby structures  Kuttam Pokuna (Twin Ponds) The Abhayagiri Museum The Samadhi Buddha Ratnaprasada One of the finest surviving moonstones of Anuradhapura   Hours    5 AM to 7 PM  The Story Behind The Abhayagiri Stupa Abhayagiri is not just another Stupa in the Sacred City of Anuradhapura.   There is a significant religious and political story behind its existence.   A King's Debt, And A Monastery Named After A Grudge  The origin of the monastery goes back to the reign of King Vattagamini Abhaya or Valagamba.   The king had to leave Anuradhapura due to an invasion around 103 BCE.   He had to spend 14 years in hiding before he could reclaim his throne. This part of the story is very similar to the Ramayana.   Lord Ram had to spend 14 years in exile on his father’s command after he became the King of Ayodhya.   After 14 years of exile and defeating the demon King Ravana, he returned to Ayodhya.   Nevertheless, King Vattagamini Abhaya was mocked by a Hindu ascetic, Giri, during his exile.   So, when he got his throne back, he built the monastery on the hermitage of Giri.   Then, he named the place Abhayagiri, a fusion of his own name with Giri’s.   You may not believe every detail of the story. However, the monastery was one of the largest Buddhist institutions in the ancient world.   Splitting From The Mahavihara  Abhayagiri broke away from the older, conservative Mahavihara tradition.  The dispute was over the use of Sanskrit texts alongside Pali scripture.   Also, there were differences about how the monks should engage with the lay community.   Over centuries, Abhayagiri did not limit itself to being a monastery.   It was very much like a university and not a single monastery.   It built connections with Buddhist institutions in India, China, and Java.  Moreover, it was the first monastic centre in Sri Lanka to have the tooth relic of the Buddha.  Then, the relic eventually moved to what is now the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy.   It also became the country's main center for Mahayana and, later, Vajrayana thought, running in parallel with Theravada orthodoxy for close to 1000 years.  From Ruin To Restoration  Abhayagiri fell into decline after Anuradhapura was no longer the capital.  Also, over centuries the stupa lost around a third of its original height, with the uppermost brickwork collapsing.   In recent times, the Department of Archaeology of Sri Lanka has been continuing the restoration work of this stupa.   The most significant among these restoration efforts was a fifteen-year Central Cultural Fund project in collaboration with UNESCO.   The restoration work ended in June 2015.   When I visited, there was still scaffolding on one section of the dome.  So, when you plan a visit, please check with the locals regarding the restoration work.   Also, take your photos from the paved approach on the eastern side rather than directly underneath, where the working platforms tend to sit.  What You Will Actually See When You Visit Abhayagiri is not just a standalone historical monument.  It is a forested archaeological zone that takes a genuine hour or two to walk properly.  It took more time for me, as I was exploring the carving details, and here I have discussed the most remarkable things I saw at Abhayagiri.   The Stupa Itself  The stupa is the epicenter of the complex.   Up close, the brick construction and the sheer footprint of the base make it obvious why 19th-century surveyors compared it to the Giza pyramids rather than to other stupas.  Kuttam Pokuna Or The Twin Ponds  The two rectangular bathing tanks are genuinely one of the best-preserved pieces of hydraulic engineering anywhere in the ancient city.   They were restored once in 1885 under British colonial archaeologist Robert Wilson Ievers and again in 1955 by the Department of Archaeology.   The Moonstone And The Samadhi Buddha  You will find the sandakada pahana, or the most elaborately carved moonstone, on the northwest side of the stupa.   This semi-circular moonstone sits before a staircase.   It has carvings of flame motifs, four animals, a vine scroll, and a lotus at the center in the quintessential Anuradhapura style.   From there, the Samadhi Buddha was a short walk away.  In this statue, Lord Buddha is meditating, and it is a significant piece of period culture.   Ratnaprasada And The Guard Stones  Ratnaprasada is to the west of the main stupa.    It was once the largest structure in the whole monastery and housed its more ascetic monks.   Today, you can mostly see the remains of the foundation work.  However, it has one of the finest surviving guardstones in the country, carved with a naga king figure.   The Abhayagiri Museum  The museum is around 300–400 metres south of the stupa. It was established in memory of the Chinese monk-pilgrim Faxian (Fa-Hsien).  He studied at Abhayagiri in the early 5th century CE and left one of the only outside written accounts of the monastery at its peak.   It houses artefacts recovered during the site's excavation and restoration work.  Also, it is a useful stop for context before or after walking the ruins.  However, it requires its own separate entry ticket, distinct from the main Sacred City pass. As a SAARC visitor, I had to pay $12.   Entry Fees And Tickets  Ticket  Foreign Adult Price (2026)   Notes  Anuradhapura Sacred City combined ticket.  $30 Covers:  Abhayagiri Stupa Jetavanaramaya Ruwanwelisaya Thuparamaya Lovamahapaya Kuttam Pokuna The Moonstone The Abhayagiri Museum   Isurumuniya, Sri Maha Bodhi, Mihintale   Ticketed separately  Not included in the main Sacred City ticket.  Anuradhapura New Town entry   $3  Separate from the Sacred City archaeological zone   Local/SAARC visitors  Free for the Sacred City itself   A separate small fee applies for the SAARC Visitors ($12) for the Abhayagiri Museum.     Recent Developments Worth Knowing About Anuradhapura as a whole has had a steady stream of coverage through 2026.  Most of it is about accessibility and ticketing rather than the archaeology itself.   There have been repeated revisions in Sri Lanka's broader Cultural Triangle pricing.   Furthermore, Sri Lanka's Department of Archaeology continues to run active protection and monitoring work across the Anuradhapura Sacred City sites.  These include Abhayagiri's monastic ruins, moonstones, and guard stones, under its ongoing chemical conservation and maintenance divisions.   A Half-Day Itinerary Around Abhayagiri   Time  Stop  Notes  8:00 AM  Arrive and hire bicycles or a tuk-tuk.   Buy your combined ticket at the Archaeological Museum first if you have not pre-booked.  8:30 AM  Abhayagiri Stupa  Enjoy the best light and coolest temperatures of the day.  Approach from the eastern paved courtyard.   9:15 AM  Moonstone and Samadhi Buddha   A short walk northwest and east of the stupa, respectively.  9:45 AM  Ratnaprasada and guard stones   Easy to miss, and it is set slightly back from the main path.  10:15 AM Kuttam Pokuna (Twin Ponds)   Worth ten minutes just for the stonework and water channels.  10:45 AM  Abhayagiri Museum  Requires a separate ticket.   11:30 AM  Onward to the rest of the Sacred City or Mihintale   Both are feasible as a half-day add-on if you started early.  Where Abhayagiri Fits Into A Wider Sri Lanka Trip  Are you building out a full Cultural Triangle itinerary?  You can visit Abhayagiri with the other major Anuradhapura stupas and with Mihintale, the hill where Buddhism is traditionally said to have arrived in Sri Lanka.  The most convenient way to explore the entire circuit is to keep an entire day for Anuradhapura, including Abhayagiri, Ruwanwelisaya, Jetavanaramaya, and Sri Maha Bodhi.  Mihintale will be a half-day add-on to your itinerary, and the following morning you can head to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress and Polonnaruwa.   Having said that, Abhayagiri isn't the single most photographed structure in the Cultural Triangle.  Sigiriya and the Temple of the Tooth get more attention in most guidebooks or travel itineraries.   However,  of everywhere I visited in Anuradhapura, it is the one that most convincingly puts you inside the ancient city rather than just looking at a monument within it.

BY  Sibashree Jul 22, 2026

My trip to Sri Lanka crossed many dramatic turns, especially in the Northern part of the country.  With Vavuniya feeling like a crossroads rather than a stopover and Mannar being a high point where the wind never stops, the next stop was Mullaitivu.  Mullaitivu was a name that I had only read about in the news archives.  Mullaitivu is even in the news today as the people of Keppapilavu have been protesting for days now for the return of their ancestral lands.  Thurairasa Ravikaran and Sivagnanam Shritharan, two Tamil parliamentarians, have shown their support and solidarity to this protest.  Nevertheless, while Trincomalee beaches and the rich culture of Jaffna dominate the conversations about Northern Sri Lanka, Mullaitivu surfaced as a place talking about the past.  In this article, I will talk about my two days in Mullaitivu, from the drive in to the lagoon that ended a war, and why I think this coastline deserves more than a passing mention on a map. Why Mullaitivu Almost Stayed Off My List The day I spent at Vavuniya, the guesthouse caretaker there, a soft-spoken man named Selvam, was the one who first brought up Mullaitivu. About Mullaitivu, he mentioned,  “The beaches were empty, the lagoon was calm, and the town had not yet learned how to perform for tourists.” This stirred me, as most travel forums I had checked mentioned Mullaitivu as a former war zone with a nice coastline and not much infrastructure. While this is not false, this is only a fragmented picture of Mullaitivu. How I Reached Mullaitivu From Vavuniya, I took A34 to reach Mullaitivu. It was a distance of around 54 kilometers, and I reached within an hour and a half.  The road narrowed past Puthukkudiyiruppu, cutting through scrubland, paddy fields, and the occasional stretch of forest before the land flattens out toward the coast. How Mullaitivu Felt At First Sight?  Mullaitivu was once a small fishing harbor.  It was a small fishing harbor and a stop for sailing vessels moving goods between Colombo and Jaffna in the early twentieth century.  Today, it also remains a fishing town, unbothered and unhurried by outsiders.  As I entered the town, my driver, Ravi, pointed out the old lighthouse. It was built in 1896, and it has lost its original iron frame.  So, when you visit the lighthouse today, you can only find a faded signboard.  Nevertheless, I spent my first evening walking along Mullaitivu Beach.  Fishing boats had gathered there, forming neat rows, and the nets were drying on the sand.  Also, it was most delightful to find children playing cricket on the sand with a tennis ball.  Being from the country where cricket is a religion, I joined them. We bonded big time talking over big names such as Kumar Sangakkara and Kusal Mendis.  A few meters away from them, an elderly woman was mending a fishing net.  It felt like a scene from a Sanjeewa Pushpakumara movie. Like his films, Flying Fish and The Venishing, it was like a scene depicting the raw portrayal of survival.  What Are The Places To Visit In Mullaitivu?  I was not prepared for the amount of Civil War history Mullaitivu offered me.  Also, the birds and the sanctuary where the beach and lagoon meet allowed me to unwind with so many things going on in my head about life during and after the Civil War in Sri Lanka.  Nanthikadal Lagoon: Where The War Ended At a glance, the Nanthikadal Lagoon looks like a shallow, sand-fringed body of water. It is on the northeastern edge of the district. Small rivers feed it, and it finally opens into the Indian Ocean.  When I reached the lagoon, I found some egrets standing motionless in the shallows. Then, a kingfisher dropped into the water and came up empty. Ravi then took me to an old man, a local school teacher called Rajan. He narrated the entire story of the Nanthikadal Lagoon to me.  What Happened At Nanthikadal Lagoon  The 26-year Civil War of Sri Lanka ended at Nanthikadal Lagoon in May 2009.  Here, the government forces cornered the last LTTE fighters. The group's leader, Velupillai Prabhakaran, was also killed.  In the weeks before that, civilians had been pushed into a shrinking strip of land along this same lagoon. They were between the fighting lines. In a report published on 17th January 2009, The Guardian wrote,  “International concern is intensifying over the fate of around 350,000 civilians trapped in a rapidly shrinking rebel-controlled pocket of land in Sri Lanka's north east, as the military steps up its campaign to end the civil war by crushing the Tamil Tiger forces. There is no specific count of the number of human casualties in these final months. A 2011 UN Panel of Experts report stated that credible sources estimated as many as 40,000 civilian deaths. Another report, published by The Times (UK) on 29th May 2009 based on confidential UN documents the paper obtained, reported that civilian deaths in the no-fire zone rose sharply from late April. The deaths averaged around 1,000 killed per day until May 19, 2009. Thus, it had put the total civilian death toll at over 20,000. (Source: Al Jazeera).  The Sri Lankan Government has shown a much lower figure.   However, in the UN Rights Council: Act on Sri Lanka Report published on 13th September 2011, Brad Adams, the Asia director at Human Rights Watch, mentioned,  “When a UN Panel of Experts report concludes up to 40,000 civilians died amid war crimes, the Human Rights Council should feel compelled to act. The council should order a full international investigation – anything less would be a shameful abdication of responsibility.” How Nanthikadal Lagoon Looks Back At Those Days Every Year Tamil families gather at Mullivaikkal, close to the lagoon, on 19th May every year to remember relatives lost in the final days.  They light lamps and plant coconut saplings in their memory.  Standing at the water's edge, with fishermen casting nets a short distance away, I found it hard to reconcile the stillness in front of me with what this ground had witnessed. The Victory Monument, The Museum, And The Submarines The Puthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument was on the Paranthan-Mullaitivu road, which was a short drive from the lagoon.  It was unveiled in 2019, and it depicts a soldier carrying the national flag.  Furthermore, the surrounding pond and lilies represent the ocean around the island and the nation itself.  An adjoining war museum displays weapons, vehicles, and vessels used during the conflict's final phase. Entry to the museum was free, and it remains open from 8 AM to 5 PM.  Also nearby, there were rusted hulls, and it was the site where the government troops discovered an abandoned Sea Tiger boatyard in 2009.  It is where the LTTE's naval wing used to build improvised submarines and semi-submersible craft.  I want to be honest about something here. This is a site that different communities in Sri Lanka read very differently, and I do not think a two-day visit qualifies anyone to settle that.  What I can say is that visiting both the lagoon and the monument on the same day gave me a fuller, more uncomfortable picture than either would have alone. The Kokkilai Lagoon:  Where The Coastline Turns Peaceful Again On the second afternoon, I drove out to Kokkilai Lagoon.  It was a wetland sanctuary around 25 kilometers southeast of town.  It has been a protected bird sanctuary since 1951, and I could spot pelicans, herons, and occasional flamingos moving along the shallows.  The crowd of birdwatchers was small, and the overall ambiance was quiet.  Chundikulam Further along the coast, Chundikulam allowed me to relax. It was a sanctuary with no visitors.  I quietly cherished the view of the beach and lagoon blurring into one uninterrupted stretch of sand and water. Coming back from Chundikulam, I had some spicy crab curry and rice at a roadside stall. It was similar to what I had in Jaffna, but it tasted even better.  Ravi said, “It was the only reason to end the day here.”  My Two Days In Mullaitivu: The Itinerary  Day TimeActivities/Places to VisitDay 1MorningDrive from Vavuniya via the A34MiddayCheck-in and Walk through Mullaitivu TownAfternoonNanthikadal Lagoon and the CausewayEveningMullaitivu Beach at SunsetDay 2MorningPuthukkudiyiruppu Victory Monument and War MuseumMiddaySea Tiger Submarine YardAfternoonKokkilai Lagoon BirdwatchingEveningChundikulam Coastline and Seafood Dinner Mullaitivu: A Quiet Place That Asks You To Listen  Away from the grandeur of Kandy and Colombo, Mullaitivu is a place that simply exists. It tells the stories of human survival, and it is still recovering and fishing despite the stains and the lives lost in the Civil War.  So, if you are already tracing the north of Sri Lanka through Vavuniya, Kilinochchi, or Mannar, I would not leave Mullaitivu off the route.  Just go with the understanding that this is not a beach add-on. It is a place that holds two very different stories at once, and it does not owe you a tidy conclusion to either.