Wilpattu National Park: Chasing Leopards Through Sri Lanka’s Wild Lakelands

BY  Sibashree Sep 8, 2026

I was quite content at Arugam Bay for a week of surfing, and I had Kumana penciled in as one of my big wildlife detours.  I had heard about Lahugala, but most guides or locals I met mentioned it in passing.  It was more like, “Oh, that little park on the way to Pottuvil, you'll drive past it anyway.” However, an elderly guesthouse owner told me not to skip it. I listened to him. Otherwise, I would have missed the most understated, elephant-dense pockets of wilderness.  It was not like anything I had visited in Sri Lanka. Also, the best part was that I had it almost entirely to myself.  The park neither can nor tries to compete with Yala National Park or Wilpattu in scale or star power.  It is 5.4 square kilometres of flat, tank-fed scrubland in the Eastern Province, and that smallness is precisely the point. Everything in Lahugala revolves around water, grass, and elephants, and on the afternoon I visited, all three came together in a way I still think about. A Quick Introduction To Lahugala National Park Lahugala Kitulana National Park is in the eastern province of Sri Lanka, and it is roughly 16 Km inland from Arugam Bay.  It is also just off the Pottuvil–Monaragala road, which actually cuts through the park's southeastern edge. This park began its journey as a wildlife sanctuary in July 1966. Then, on 31st October 1980, it had an upgrade as a national park.  Furthermore, the ecology of the park revolves around the three ancient tanks, Lahugala, Kitulana, and Senagamuwa. These tanks eventually drain into the Heda Oya River. Nevertheless, have a look at the quick snapshot below before you plan a visit to Lahugala National Park.  DetailInformationLocationEastern Province, near Pottuvil and Arugam BayAreaApproximately 15.4 sq kmEstablishedSanctuary in 1966National park status on 31 Oct 1980Key featureThree Interconnected TanksLahugalaKitulanaSenagamuwaFamous forElephant gatherings around Lahugala tank, especially in the dry seasonNearest townPottuvil (approx. 16 km)Arugam Bay (approx. 16–18 km)Best seasonYear-roundElephant sightings are strongest July–September How To Reach Lahugala?  You do not need to plan a standalone trip for Lahugala National Park.  Like most travelers, I reached Lahugala from Arugam Bay. The tuk-tuk price was LKR 3000, and it took around 45 minutes.  Furthermore, the distance between Colombo and Lahugala is around 378 kilometers. So, if you are traveling from Colombo, choose Ella or Monaragala as your overnight stop.  Attempting the national park from Colombo will be an overly ambitious plan.  FromApprox. DistanceApproximate Drive TimeArugam Bay16–18 kmAround 30- 45 MinutesPottuvil16 km20–25 minutesMonaragala45 km1 hourColombo378 km6–7 hours The A4 Highway from Pottuvil to Monaragala runs directly alongside and briefly through the park. So, you do not even need a dedicated safari transfer to see part of Lahugala.  So, you can see a major section of the tank and grassland from the main road.  However, if you want to explore the interior tracks or the tank edges, you will need a park-registered tracker and jeep.  My Safari Experience At Lahugala National Park It was around 3:30 PM when I reached Lahugala. From the locals, I already knew that it was the ideal window for the classic dawn safari here.  The heat is at its peak in the afternoon, and that is what pushes elephants toward the tanks.  So, in the late afternoon, you will find them near the tanks.  The Elephants Of Lahugala Tank The Lahugala Tank supports a thick growth of Sacciolepis interrupta, a wetland grass elephants seem to genuinely love.  I saw herds gathering along the tank margins to graze on it.  The herds I came across had a decent strength of 20 to 30 elephants. However, the guide told me that during the peak season, there can be around 100 elephants in a herd.  Also, one thing I want to share here. The largest herd I spotted in the park was nowhere near the known gathering spots.  I saw them across the far bank and in the shallows.  Overall, barring the famous gathering of Minneriya, this was the largest elephant encounter I had in Sri Lanka.  I loved the elephant watching experience here because of how unhurried it felt.  No other jeeps were jostling for position, and there was no radio chatter about a sighting three tracks over.  My tracker cut the engine near the tank edge, and we simply sat and watched calves wade in, and adults strip grass with their trunks for close to forty minutes. Birdlife Along The Tanks The three tanks of Lahugala made it an exciting spot for bird watching. The park especially stands out with its population of waterbirds.  I picked out painted storks, several egret species, cormorants, and a pair of white-bellied sea eagles working the thermals above the water. Because the park is so rarely crowded, birds tend to stay closer and longer than they would somewhere busier. Sloth Bears And Other Wildlife In the park, I saw spotted or axis deer, sloth bears, along with mugger crocodiles and freshwater turtles.  However, to be honest, sloth bears are elusive, and you can spot them by luck.  They are shy. So, even if you cannot see them, know that they are present in the park.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Lahugala National Park? Lahugala National Park is a year-round destination.  However, if you are in the park especially for elephant gatherings, dry months are the best time to spot them.  During the dry months of July to September, elephant sightings become frequent, with the water levels dropping elsewhere and the gigantic creatures gathering around the tanks.  Also, you must avoid the northeast monsoon period from October to January. The tanks are full in these months, and the elephants disperse into the surrounding forest, making sightings far less predictable. Entrance Fees And Permits CategoryApproximate Cost (2026)Foreign Adult (12+)USD 12Foreign Child (6–12 Years)USD 6Foreign Children under 6 Years FreeSAARC NationalsUSD 10 for AdultsUSD 5 for Children between 6 and 12 YearsFree for Children below 6 YearsLocals Adults: LKR 60Children from 6 to 12 Years: LKR 30Children below 6 Years: FreeStudents: LKR 20Vehicle Entry TicketLKR 300Foreign Group Fee Per VehicleUSD 10 A Half-Day Lahugala Itinerary Because Lahugala is small, it is easy to pair with either Arugam Bay's beaches or a longer Kumana National Park excursion. Here is roughly how I had structured the afternoon based on my own visit. TimeActivity2:30 PMDepart Arugam Bay 3:00 PMArrive at Lahugala entrance, collect tracker3:30–4:45 PMSafari loop around Lahugala tank, elephant and bird watching4:45–5 PMStop at the old Magul Maha Vihara ruins near the park boundary5:15 PMReturn to Arugam Bay in time for sunset Tips From My Visit A few practical notes I will pass on. Go in the late afternoon rather than dawn, since Lahugala's elephant activity peaks as the heat pushes them toward water. Bring binoculars, as the tank is wide and animals often graze on the far bank. Do not expect the density of jeeps you will find in Yala National Park. This is one of the few parks in Sri Lanka where a wildlife sighting still feels unhurried and private. Nearby Places To Explore Lahugala sits at the crossroads of Sri Lanka's east coast and its deep south, which makes it easy to fold into a longer itinerary.  If you are basing yourself in Arugam Bay, it pairs naturally with a Kumana National Park safari for a more thorough wildlife day.  Travellers heading further south along the coast often continue on toward Pasikudah or Nilaveli for beach time. Again, those coming from the cultural triangle sometimes route through Mullaitivu or Vavuniya on the way east.

BY  Sibashree Sep 23, 2026

Thuparamaya is probably the most unassuming among the dagobas of Anuradhapura.  However, it is equally, if not more, important than other dagobas and stupas in Sri Lanka.  It was the first stupa that was built in Sri Lanka after Buddhism arrived here. Also, it was built as the house of the relic of the right collarbone of Lord Buddha.  Furthermore, recently, an update has made this stupa the center of attraction, especially for Indian travelers and the Buddhist people of India.  The Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority reported 191,704 arrivals in August 2026. It highlighted that India was the largest source market with 47253 visitors.  This is a significant figure as the founding story of Thuparamaya stupa runs through the Indian emperor Ashoka and his envoy Mahinda. So, if you are interested in Buddhism or the history of India, this is the spot where a familiar thread reaches Sri Lanka.  Thuparamaya At A Glance DetailWhat to KnowLocationSacred precinct of Anuradhapura, North Central Province, Sri LankaFounderKing Devanampiya Tissa (247–207 BC) built it at the request of the monk Mahinda.PurposeTo enshrine the Buddha's right collarbone.The first stupa after Buddhism reached the island.FormBell-shaped dome.Two rings of stone pillars survive from a roofed vihara.HeightAbout 19 MetersBase diameter18 MetersCurrent structureRebuilt in the 19th centuryHours7 AM to 5 PMTicketIncluded in the Anuradhapura Sacred City TicketFree for LocalsForeign Adults: USD 30.00Foreign Children: USD 15SAARC Adults and Children: USD 15Time needed30–45 minutes Best timeEarly morning, before the stone platform heats up My Morning At The First Stupa When I reached Thuparamaya, the ticket counter had just opened.  So, when I took my shoes off at the edge of the platform and stepped onto granite, it was still cool.  After the scale of Ruwanwelisaya and Jetavanaramaya, Thuparamaya felt humane and intimate. I took a circle of the dome and then continued exploring the stupa.  The Stone Pillars Around The Dome I noticed the pillars around the dome.  Two rings of stone columns stand around the stupa. These are the remains of a roofed vatadage, a circular relic house, that once sheltered it.  Oriental Architecture describes Thuparamaya as the oldest of Sri Lanka's vatadage-type shrines. Furthermore, the building is attributed to Devanampiya Tissa and later to King Vasabha.  Standing among those columns, I found it easy to picture a timber roof overhead and lamplight inside. Living Worship, Not A Museum Piece When I was at Thuparamaya, I saw devotees arriving with flowers.  Also, the monks were moving quietly around the platform. Everything was happening on time.  However, there was no rush around it.  So, if you are visiting this stupa, keep your voice low and be respectful while taking photos.  The Ruins Around  The primary complex of the Thuparamaya Stupa is enclosed by a square boundary wall with a southeastern entrance. Behind this lies a structure identified as a Bodhigara rather than its previously suspected roles.  To the right of the main gate stands the Padalanchana Stupa, built by King Lagnatissa to mark the sacred footprint site of the four Buddhas of this aeon.  To the left of the central stupa is a prominent 3rd-century BCE image house historically known as the Trident House. Moreover, just beyond the main enclosure to the far left remains the pillared chapter house of the monastery.  The History: How One Collarbone Started A Landscape of Stupas Ashoka sent Mahinda to Sri Lanka, bringing Theravada Buddhism and the practice of worshipping at chaityas.  At Mahinda's request, King Devanampiya Tissa built Thuparamaya to enshrine the Buddha's right collarbone. That is why it has the designation of the first stupa on the island.  The timeline below sets out what the record supports at each stage. PeriodEventNote247–207 BCFounding under Devanampiya TissaTraditional date for the first stupa114–136 ADPalumekichchawa Inscription names the Thuparama templeDescribed as the earliest chiselled stone inscription naming it during the reign of GajabahuLater Anuradhapura eraRuined stupa restored under Aggabodhi IIRoyal edict ordered full restoration19th centuryPresent dome rebuilt1862 Why The Name Matters Thuparamaya combines stupa with aramaya, a residential complex for monks.  The name tells you the stupa was never a standalone structure.  It anchored a monastery. Also, an ancient inscription even records a reservoir whose harvest was for the monks living here. Latest Updates For 2026 Visitors These are the recent developments I would check before travelling. August 2026 arrivals were 191,704, and January to August arrivals reached 1,535,122, according to the Economic Times LK.  For comparison, August 2025 stood at 198,235, according to the Financial Chronicle. So this year is a little below last year's pace. Also, there is ongoing UNESCO restoration work at Jetavanaramaya. Due to this, Thuparamaya is getting more crowds of photographers and tourists looking for photo ops.  Cycling Versus Tuk-Tuk The core sites span roughly 10 km of riding. So, renting a bicycle is the best way to visit them. A bicycle rental is around 300-400 LKR for a day.  You will also get tuk-tuks on hire here.  A Half-Day Itinerary Around Thuparamaya TimeStopWhy This Stop Works6:30 AMSri Maha BodhiPilgrimage atmosphere is strongest at dawn.7:30 AMThuparamayaCool stone, few visitors, unhurried circuit.8:30 AMRuwanwelisayaShort ride and the white dome looks magical in morning light. 9:30 AMJetavanaramaya and museumAllow time for the museum and any scaffolding views.12:00 PMLunch and restAvoid the 12 to 3 PM heat.3:30 PMAbhayagiriLarger site, easier in the softer afternoon light. Nearby Places To Combine With Thuparamaya The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi Museum is about 1 km away, and Jetavanaramaya is about 2 km from Thuparamaya.  Also, Anuradhapura anchors the north-west corner of the Cultural Triangle. So, you can easily visit the Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Furthermore,  the Aukana Buddha statue is a natural stop on the road.

BY  Sibashree Jul 22, 2026

Mullaitivu left me quiet with the heavy history of the Sri Lankan Civil War.  And Kalpitiya was another surprise during my trip to Sri Lanka. Kalpitiya is a kitesurfing town. In fact, Kalpitiya has been an important spot to boost tourism in Sri Lanka for the last 15 years with its kitesurfing adventures.  Furthermore, in September 2025, Kalpitiya saw its longest kitesurfing adventure. It was “a nearly 200-kilometre journey from Anawasala point in Kalpitiya to Talaimannar.”  Surfers from Sri Lanka, Italy and Germany took part in this surfing adventure. Also, Sara Johanna Berg, while speaking to The Sunday Times, said,  “This water sport is spectacular, not only to practice but also to watch. However, it requires proper training and guidance.” Sara also mentioned that with this event, she expected more participation from the Sri Lankan surfers.  Nevertheless, Kalpitiya was more than a wind-scoured sandbar with a fort. It is also home to a distinct fishing culture. And yes, you will see many dolphins, probably the calmest in Kalpitiya.  Here is what I did during my three days in Kalpitiya. This stretch of the northwest coast deserves more than a footnote in a Sri Lanka itinerary. Kalpitiya Took Me By Surprise From The Moment The Journey Started Kalpitiya is around 165 to 170 kilometers north of Colombo. A drive takes around three and a half hours.  It is a peninsula in the Puttalam District and is located around 50 kilometers north of Puttalam Town.  Furthermore, squeezed between the Puttalam Lagoon and the open Indian Ocean, Kalpitiya is a place famous for wind, kites, and dolphins.  However, the journey from Colombo to Kalpitiya was no less “interesting.”  Past Puttalam, the road narrowed, and the land on either side turned into salt pans, catching the light in long silver-white sheets. My driver this time was Nimal, and he slowed down so I could photograph a row of old windmills turning lazily near the salterns. Every detail on the way felt more like rural Netherlands than tropical Sri Lanka. Nimal said,  "This whole peninsula used to belong to traders.” Then, he pointed toward the lagoon side and said, "Arabs, then the Portuguese, then the Dutch. Everyone wanted this exact strip of sand." The Places To Visit In Kalpitiya  What Nimal said made more sense to me when I reached Kalpitiya Fort, the main historical attraction in Kalpitiya.  It was a fort that guarded a Cinnamon route. Here are more details about the fort.  Kalpitiya Fort: Embodying The Portuguese And Dutch History The Portuguese had laid the foundations of the Kalpitiya Fort earlier, and the Dutch built the fort on it between 1667 and 1676.  It sits on the narrow point where the Puttalam Lagoon meets the sea.  The walls of the fort are around four meters in height, and these are made of coral and limestone quarried from the surrounding coast. Also, the single entrance to the fort faces the lagoon. Furthermore, the belfry and the pediment topping the entrance make it look like a church.   However, this resemblance is not an accident. The local accounts say that the Dutch built the entrance in that style to placate the Kandyan king who had granted them the land. It was at a time when the fort's real purpose was military and commercial rather than religious.  A Guard To The Puttalam Lagoon The Kalpitiya Fort guarded the entrance to Puttalam Lagoon. The Dutch used the lagoon as a corridor to move cinnamon, areca nuts, and pearls toward Colombo. They had even dug a canal through Negombo for the purpose. However, today, the fort functions as the navy base of Sri Lanka. If you want to visit this fort, you will have to carry your original passport as it is still an active military site.  A young naval officer volunteered to show me around. Also, as I walked the bastions, the fort looked out over the lagoon on one side and the ocean on the other. The two bodies of water were separated by a strip of land I could have walked across in under ten minutes. Kudawa Beach: The Line Between Two Seas From the fort, I took a short ride to Kudawa Beach.  It is the main stretch of sand in Kalpitiya, and here a narrow sandbar visibly divides the turquoise ocean from the murkier, nutrient-rich lagoon.  I arrived at the beach close to sunset. Without exaggerating a bit, it was the single sundowner spot I found anywhere on this Sri Lanka trip.  There were no large resorts crowding the shorelines. However, there are around 30 kitesurfing schools around the coastlines and lagoons.  Also, there are small eco-resorts, and a handful of fishing huts with nets strung out to dry.  At the beach, a fisherman mending his net nearby told me, half in English and half through gestures, that the wind here "never really stops between May and October."  I had to agree with him, as even if I stood still, my shirt kept snapping against my back.  What Are The Things To Do In Kalpitiya?  I had a wonderful time chasing the dolphins and trying to learn kitesurfing. Here is more about the best things to do in Kalpitiya.  1. Chasing Dolphins Before Sunrise Dolphin watching is the best experience to have in Kalpitiya.  Our boat left from the lagoon, and it charged LKR 4000 per head.  It was just after sunrise. So, the sea was at its calmest. The boat headed out toward the Bar Reef area, where we spotted the spinner dolphins. I tried to keep a count, and it was close to sixty.  Our guide told me that spinner dolphins are regular in this region between November and April. He mentioned spotting the "super-pods" of over a thousand dolphins during peak months.  The dolphins did not perform tricks for us, and they simply existed around the boat. They spun, leaped, and occasionally arrowed straight toward the hull before diving under at the last second. Our boat operator mentioned that between December and April, this area also has sperm whales and sometimes migrating blue whales.  Each time a pod appeared, our boat operator cut the engine. Thus, the boat drifted rather than chasing them.  He said it was a “standard practice” among the more responsible operators working the Bar Reef. It is one of Sri Lanka's largest reef systems at roughly 307 square kilometers. 2. Learning To Kitesurf (I Failed At It) Kalpitiya's lagoon side is shallow and flat almost by design. That is exactly why it has built its reputation as one of the best beginner-friendly kitesurfing spots in Asia.  However, I was not a natural.  My instructor, a wiry local guy named Dinesh who has been teaching on this lagoon for years, kept the lesson simple. "Control the kite first. The board comes later," he said, which is probably decent life advice too. However, I barely made it. So, you must not trust the term “beginner-friendly” completely.  What Is The Best Season For Kitesurfing In Kalpitiya?  Kalpitiya has two kitesurfing seasons.  The southwest monsoon, from May to October, brings strong, consistent wind for most of the day. So, it is for professionals and veterans.  On the other hand, the northeast monsoon, from December to March, is gentler and generally considered the better window for first-timers. I went in the second season. Still, I spent most of the first hour eating sand.  3. Exploring The Places Near Kalpitiya  Wilpattu National Park, the largest national park in Sri Lanka, is close to Kalpitiya. It is a drive of about 2 hours.  The Wilpattu National Park is also famous for having a dense population of leopards. If you want to stretch the trip a little, you can visit the national park and plan a day safari.  Moreover, the peninsula itself is scattered with fourteen small islands. Some inhabited by fishing families, some given over entirely to mangroves and birdlife! You can even explore these islands for a meaningful cultural experience. How I Spent Three Days In Kalpitiya: The Itinerary  DaysTimeActivityDay 1MorningDrive from Colombo via Puttalam, Salt Pans and WindmillsAfternoonVisiting the Kalpitiya Dutch FortEveningSunset at Kudawa BeachDay 2Early Morning Dolphin Watching Boat Trip Near Bar ReefAfternoonRelaxing by the LagoonEveningTrying Fresh Seafood by the BeachDay 3Early MorningKitesurfing LessonLate MorningDay trip toward Wilpattu National ParkAfternoon Island-hopping by Boat, Mangroves and Birdlife Kalpitiya: A Coastline That Is Still Deciding What It Wants To Be  Kalpitiya never tries to be Galle or Mirissa Beach. This is where it wins hearts.  With its patchy hot water, basic rooms, and winds, it is as unpolished as Nimal warned me it would be.  It was between a 350-year-old fort, a reef full of dolphins, and a lagoon that has quietly become one of the best kitesurfing classrooms in Asia! Overall, Kalpitiya gave me more range in three days than most single-purpose beach towns manage in a week. Are you the kind of traveler who wants your itinerary to include a little bit of history, a little bit of wildlife, and a lot of wind in your hair? I would put this stretch of the northwest coast near the top of your list.