Gal Oya National Park, Sri Lanka: A Place Where I Saw Elephants From Boats

BY  Sibashree Jul 17, 2026

Every guidebook I read before my third trip to Sri Lanka showed Vavuniya in the same way.  The map was also similar in its approach, and Vavuniya looked like a dot between Anuradhapura and Jaffna. It looked like a place that everyone passed through, but not a place to stop.  The feeling or vibe was similar to Mannar, as most forums wrote it off as “not much else.” However, when I actually went there, I realized what I would have missed.  So, when my driver, Ravi, suggested the Anuradhapura-to-Jaffna drive with a day in Vavuniya instead of pushing straight through, I said yes mostly out of stubbornness. I wanted to see what a “Nothing” town on Sri Lanka’s most historically loaded highway looked like up close.  Honestly, I was not prepared for how much those hours in Vavuniya would sit with me.  The Omanthai Moment  Around twenty minutes before reaching Vavuniya Town, Ravi stopped the car.  The road there narrowed and slowed at a junction called Omanthai. There was nothing very dramatic, and it only had a few roadside stalls, buses idling, and the ordinary chaos of the A9 highway. However, the stopover became unforgettable as Ravi tapped the wheel and said, almost as an aside,  “This was the checkpoint.  During the war, you couldn't cross here without permission. Now you don't even notice it unless someone tells you." That gap between what a place was and what it looks like now is, I've realised, exactly why Vavuniya stayed with me. Also, if Hikkaduwa was the spot to witness the rampage of the 2004 tsunami and the story of human resilience after it, Vavuniya was a story of how Sri Lanka continues to evolve despite a violent history of Civil War.  And that evolution probably shows in the recent reclassification of Sri Lanka's economy in 2026 as an upper-middle-income economy by the World Bank.  What The War Left Behind And What Has Been Rebuilt In Vavuniya?  Being from India, I felt connected to the civil war struggles in Vavuniya.  However, the information available to me was mostly in fragments. Standing in Vavuniya made the fragments feel connected.  During the 26-year conflict, Vavuniya functioned as a critical frontline and government-held enclave bordering LTTE territory to the north. In the final and brutal phase of the civil war, hundreds of thousands of people fleeing the fighting in the Vanni passed through Vavuniya.  Many people were even housed in transit camps, and the largest was known as Menik Farm as the conflict wound down in 2009.  However, you cannot spot any visible sign of these conflicts today.  I saw a town that was rebuilt as a meeting point and not a dividing line.  Tamil, Sinhalese, and Muslim communities live alongside each other here, and you can feel it in the built environment alone. A Hindu kovil, a mosque, and a church can sit within a few streets of each other, something I didn't see with the same density anywhere else on this trip. I want to be honest that this isn't a place with a museum or memorial that neatly packages this history for visitors. So, you have to arrive already curious and often ask. How I Spent A Slow Day In Vavuniya Town (The Places I Visited)  Vavuniya Town is walkable, and instead of being a bucket-list destination, it allows you to engage and get immersed in its spiritual, historical, and cultural vibe.  Nevertheless, these are the places I visited during my day trip to Vavuniya Town.  1. Kandasamy Kovil Kandasamy Kovil, a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Murugan, is at the heart of the town. It is similar to the temples in Jaffna in vibe. However, you cannot expect the quintessential grandeur of the South Indian temples here.  I loved that there was no queue in the temple when I visited. Just a handful of locals were moving through their morning rituals as I stood at the edge and watched them.  2. The Vavuniya Archaeological Museum The Vavuniya Archaeological Museum was a short walk away from the Kandasamy Kovil.  It is a small museum that remains open from 8:30 AM to 5 PM and offers free entry.  Furthermore, it remains closed on Tuesdays.  You can explore this small museum in half an hour. However, that does not reduce the historical value of the pottery, statues, and inscribed stones on display. These made me familiar with the district's history back well before the war, back to the Rajarata and Vanniar periods I'd just been reading about on the drive in. 3. Vavuniya Kulam And Iratperiyakulam Lake In the late afternoon, Ravi drove me out to the tanks.  Vavuniya Kulam, the town's main reservoir, had a peaceful vibe. The locals were fishing or just sitting by the water as the light softened. Iratperiyakulam Lake, a little further out, had the same unhurried energy with no ticket booth and no crowd. 4. The Market This was definitely one of my favorite parts of a trip to Vavuniya.  I wandered the Vavuniya town market at dusk. Tamil, Muslim, and Sinhalese traders shared the same narrow lanes, selling produce, dried fish, spices, and fabric side by side. It was great to see and was tangible evidence that this town has genuinely moved past being a dividing line. One Day In Vavuniya: The Itinerary TimeActivity MorningArrive via A9, stop at OmanthaiLate Morning Visit to the Kandasamy Kovil and Archaeological MuseumAfternoon and Late AfternoonVavuniya Kulam and Iratperiyakulam LakeEveningExploring Town Market and DinnerNext MorningOnward to Jaffna What I Ate In Vavuniya  Like the food in Jaffna, Vavuniya also treated me with Tamil delicacies. So, rice and curries dominate the options.  I had a lunch plate with five or six vegetables and fish curries that easily rivalled anything I have had further south. In the evening, I found a roadside stall doing kottu roti, chopped and fried on a hot griddle with theatrical noise, which felt like the right way to end a day built around quiet places. Reaching Vavuniya And Getting Around Vavuniya is on the A9 highway, which is the main north-south highway of Sri Lanka.  Also, it is on the Northern Line railway connecting to Colombo in the south and Jaffna further north.  However, you can visit Vavuniya from Anuradhapura like me, and it is a fairly short onward drive.  If you are traveling from Colombo by road. It will be a long four-hour drive, though!  Within the town itself, everything I wanted to see was walkable or a short tuk-tuk ride away.  I didn't rent anything as Ravi's car covered the tanks and the outskirts, and my own feet covered the town centre and market. Why You Must Not Skip Vavuniya  Vauniya does not have the spiritual intensity of the Dambulla Royal Cave or the cultural grandeur of Kandy.  It also does not want to be a headline destination.  I understand why it gets treated as a highway stop rather than a place to stay. However, for me, that was exactly the point. I stood at a former front line that's now just a bus stop, eating a curry plate shared by three communities that were once defined by the war between them. Overall, it offered a northern Sri Lankan experience that is not curated for visitors or trying to grab attention.

BY  Sibashree Jul 21, 2026

Kilinochchi is a place where the sparks of protests are not extinguished completely.  I am penning this article in July 2026. The arrest of the Tamil rapper Sangeethsan and the protests of the locals condemning the PTA, or Prevention of Terrorism Act, a month ago, made me concerned.  The Kilinochchi District Civil Organisations were behind the demonstrations, and the theme was “Let us unite to break the chains around our voices.” In plain sight, Killinochi is a town where paddy fields, temple bells, and war memorials share the same stretch of road. However, if you want to know about the history of this town and understand how it is being rebuilt after the Civil War, you need to spend some time in Killinochi.  Moreover, of all the places I have covered on my Sri Lanka trips, Vavuniya and Mannar had already told me that the Northern Province holds a different Sri Lanka altogether. Also, Northern Sri Lanka does not sit on any typical bucket list. Kilinochchi is the next chapter of that same story. Kilinochchi: Quick Facts ProvinceNorthern Province, Sri LankaDistrictKilinochchi DistrictDistance from JaffnaAround 330 kmMain HighwayA9 (Kandy-Jaffna Highway)Founded1936, as a colonial settlement for Jaffna's farmersFormer StatusDe facto administrative capital of the LTTE until 2009Main LivelihoodPaddy farming and agricultureBest Time to VisitThe dry season from May to September Where Is Kilinochchi And How Do I Reach It? Kilinochchi is on the A9 Highway that connects Jaffna to Kandy.  I was traveling from Anuradhapura, and I reached Kilinochchi after three hours in a car. After Vavuniya, it was Kilinochchi that Ravi introduced me to.  However, you can travel to Kilinochchi by train and bus.  Traveling By Train  However, if you are traveling from Colombo, you can take the train on the Yal Devi Line continuing to Jaffna.  Overall, it is a train journey of 5-6 hours. This is one of the most beautiful train journeys of Sri Lanka, with the landscape flattening out into dry-zone scrubland somewhere past Vavuniya. 44089 Kankasanthure Night Mail - Moratuwa - Kankesanthurai, 444421 Intercity Express -Mount Lavinia - Kankesanthurai And 44477 Yal Devi - Colombo Fort - Kankesanthurai. These are the trains plying on this route. A ticket for the second-class reserved category will cost LKR 1700. Also, the ticket price for the AC saloon car will be between LKR 2400 and LKR 3000.  Traveling By Bus  If you are a backpacker, you can also board a Colombo-Jaffna or an Anuradhapura-Jaffna bus.  You will get semi-luxury and premium-luxury bus options on this route, and the travel time will be around 7 hours.  Also, the ticket price will be between LKR 1800 and 3000. What Is The History Of Kilinochchi? The history of Kilinochchi goes back to 1936.  In the same year, Kilinochchi was constructed as part of a colonization scheme meant to ease overcrowding and unemployment in Jaffna.  The farmers came here to take part in paddy cultivation supported by government land grants. However, the recent history of the Sri Lankan Civil War has primarily shaped it today.  Kilinochchi was the de facto administrative capital of the LTTE (Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam) during the final phase of the civil war.  At the same time, Jaffna, with its strong Tamil base, remained under government control.  Then, with the Sri Lankan forces closing in on Kilinochchi in December 2008, the LTTE forced many civilians to flee with them toward Mullaitivu. Thus, the LTTEs used the civilians here as human shields.  However, before fleeing the town, the LTTEs blew up the town's main water tower in an act of scorched-earth destruction. Thus, it cut off the town's water supply in an already dry region. Nevertheless, the Sri Lankan army took charge of Kilinochchi on 2nd January 2009.  It was one of the major landmarks toward the end of the Civil War, and it finally ended in May 2009.  After that, Kilinochchi has worked on rebuilding itself.  It now has new water infrastructure, roads, and returning farming communities. Today, it stands as a quiet marker of how a place absorbs a violent past and keeps going. My Day In Kilinochchi Kilinochchi offers a sobering experience. Also, once you get involved in the history of the Civil War, most of your time will go into pondering and understanding what actually happened.  Nevertheless, here are the highlights of my day in Kilinochchi. 1. The Story Of The Water Tower Ravi first took me to the fallen water tower.  For years, the collapsed remains of the tower bombed by the LTTE in 2008 lay exactly where they fell, fenced off as an informal memorial along the highway. However, in 2020, the structure was finally removed to make space for a new building. While I could not see the fallen tower, it was not difficult for me to visualize the anarchy and destruction.  This was a monument not to victory or grandeur. Instead, it reminds us of how war strips away the most basic necessities. In this case, clean drinking water in a region where water is already scarce. 2. The Kilinochchi War Memorial The Kilinochchi War Memorial was very close to Kilinochchi Town. It commemorates how the Sri Lankan military recaptured the town in 2009.  I had mixed feelings as I approached the site.  The memorial itself is a straightforward structure offering you the moment of truth.  However, of course, you will interpret the truth depending on which side of the conflict's history you come from. I found a few tourists taking photos of the memorial. However, I spent the time talking to the locals, and I tried to understand what the final months felt like.  3. Elephant Pass The Elephant Pass was just a short distance away from the town of Kilinochchi.  It is a narrow strip of land that connects the mainland to the Jaffna peninsula.  This was one of the most fiercely contested locations throughout the entire civil war, changing hands multiple times between government forces and the LTTE. However, when you visit it today, you will only see a quiet causeway with the Elephant Pass lagoon stretching out on either side. Still, the personnel there will share the details of the war if you approach them.  4. Iranamadu Tank Visiting the Iranamadu Tank was a welcome break after exploring the grim history of civil war in Kilinochchi.  It is one of the largest man-made reservoirs in the region. It was originally built for the water supply to the surrounding paddy fields.  I visited the tank in the late afternoon and spotted local fishermen rowing out onto the water. A few egrets were also picking through the shallows.  5. Chundikulam National Park Chundikulam National Park is a delightful detour if you are visiting Kilinochchi in the winter migratory season.  This wetland hosts large flocks of Greater Flamingos. Furthermore, many other migratory birds pass through the brackish lagoon system in this season.  I did not manage to see the flamingos myself, as I visited outside the migratory window. However, locals I spoke to described early mornings here as one of the best birdwatching experiences in the entire Northern Province. 6. The Local Temples And Kanagapuram Kovil Like the temples in Jaffna, Kilinochchi's Tamil Hindu identity shows up in its temples or kovils. I stopped briefly at Kanagapuram Kovil, a modest temple with local visitors. Also, don’t forget to visit the Kaala Vairavar Temple when you are in Kilinochchi.  7. The Kilinochchi Market Before heading out of town, I walked through the local market, where vendors sold fresh produce, dried fish, and simple Tamil snacks. It was a good reminder that beneath the weight of Kilinochchi's recent history, everyday life here continues much like anywhere else in rural Sri Lanka. What To Eat In Kilinochchi The food in Kilinochchi has the same Tamil roots as the food in Jaffna.  It was a great experience trying Thosai and Idiyappam for breakfast and dinner in a rural setting.  Also, the coconut sambal and sambar were great and spicier than what we are used to having in South India.  Kothu Roti, a chopped roti stir-fried with vegetables, egg, and spices, is another filling option for lunch. Also, you cannot miss the Jaffna-Style Crab Curry. It is a spicy and tangy curry. Pittu, steamed rice flour with grated coconut, is another Tamil staple worth trying here. I ate at a small, no-frills eatery near the town center, and it remains one of the more memorable simple meals of my entire Sri Lanka trip. Where To Stay In Kilinochchi Accommodation options are limited in Kilinochchi, and you will only find budget and mid-range guesthouses and small hotels in the town center. So, if you are planning to spend a night in Kilinochchi, expect modest, rural hospitality.  What Is The Best Time To Visit Kilinochchi? May to September, or the dry season, is the ideal time for a visit to Kilinochchi.  However, remember that the Northern Province of Sri Lanka is punishingly hot at midday, irrespective of the season of the visit.  Furthermore, if birdwatching at Chundikulam National Park is on your list, plan your visit around the winter migratory season instead.

BY  Sibashree Sep 14, 2026

When I reached Kataragama Temple, it was completely silent.  It was a little before dusk, and the Ruhunu Maha Kataragama Devalaya was still catching the last orange light. For a few minutes, the precinct looked like it was holding its breath.  Then the Kavadi bells started ringing, and the drums started rolling.  In an instant, I understood why people describe this place less as a temple complex and more as a living current that pulls Hindus, Buddhists, Muslims, and Vedda communities. The sandy courtyard has people who pray, taking different names of the God.  The temple is fresh off the back of the 2026 Esala Perahera. This festival, worshipping the Hindu God Skanda (Murugan), drew its usual crowd of pilgrims before wrapping up its final grand procession in late July. So, Kataragama is once again settling back into its quieter, year-round rhythm. However, if you ask me, this quieter time is actually ideal for understanding what makes this place so unusual. Kataragama Temple At A Glance DetailInformationDetailInformationAlso known asKathirkamamRuhunu Maha Kataragama DevalayaPresiding DeitySkanda/Murugan for the HindusKataragama Deviyo for the BuddhistsLocationKataragama, Moneragala District, Uva ProvinceDistance from Colombo228 km (via Tissamaharama)Nearest major townTissamaharama (18 Km)Nearest national parkYala National Park (adjoins Kataragama)Sacred riverMenik Ganga (bathing ghats)Religions representedHindu, Buddhist, Muslim, VeddaMain festivalEsala Perahera/ Kataragama Esala FestivalFestival timing 2027Around 18th JulyAnnual festival pilgrimsOver 500,000 (peak Esala season)Entry fee (temple)Free (donations accepted)Complex includesMaha DevalayaKiri Vehera DagobaValli Amman Kovil Mosque of Al-KhidrTypical visit durationHalf-day for the complexFull day with Kiri Vehera and river Festival dates follow the lunar Esala calendar and shift by a few days each year. So, always confirm current dates through Sri Lanka Tourism or the Kataragama Devalaya administration before booking travel. My First Impressions Of The Sacred City Everyone says that Kataragama is multi-religious. However, you can only understand its pluralistic nature after a physical visit.  I walked from the parking area toward the Devalaya for ten minutes.  There was a Buddhist family circling the dome of Kiri Vehera in silent reverence.  There was also a group of Hindu devotees carrying kavadi frames decorated with peacock feathers.  Again, there was a small cluster of Muslim visitors heading toward the Mosque of Al-Khidr.  The best thing is that there is no air about something really special happening here by bringing different religions together.  Everyone worships in a way that feels like this is how it is meant to be.  The monks, religious teachers, and spiritual leaders of the world only work toward achieving this inclusivity without imposing anything.  Crossing The Menik Ganga I stopped at the Menik Ganga (Gem River) before entering the temple grounds.  I got into the ankle-deep water and washed my hands and face. The cool water was rejuvenating, and it was like entering the temple with clean energy.  Some vendors were selling flowers on the riverbank. I bought some flowers, betel leaves, and fruits for offering.  If you also have plans of making an offering to the temple, carry around LKR 100-200 in cash.  The Walk To The Maha Devalaya  The walk to the Maha Devalaya passes through wide sandy paths. I came across many smaller shrines on the way.  It was a regular weekday evening, and still there was a crowd of hundreds.  This means the Devalaya is not a monument that becomes quiet beyond festivals. It is a functioning place of daily worship.  The Legend Behind The God Of Kataragama There are a lot of stories and beliefs around Skanda, the God of Kataragama.  Skanda, or Murugan, is the “Dev Senapati” or the warrior leader of the Gods in the Hindu religion.  He is also called Kartikeya, the son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati.  However, the Sinhala Buddhists worship him as Kataragama Deviyo. Kataragama Deviyo is a guardian deity who protects the island. They worship him for spiritual merit and worldly well-being.  Again, Al-Khidr is a Quranic figure. He is also referred to as the Surah al-Kahf or the rightful servant of God.  Furthermore, he was someone with great mystic knowledge.  Nevertheless, the most common story about Skanda is that he arrived here after a falling-out with his consort, Devasena.  He settled on Wedahitikanda, a hill near Kataragama.  There he fell in love with Valli, a young woman raised by the indigenous Vedda community. This love resulted in the union of a celestial figure with an earthly, forest-dwelling people. Many locals point to it as the symbolic root of Kataragama's cross-community character even today. Inside The Sacred Precinct: What You Will Actually See The complex is larger and more layered than photos suggest.  It is not a single temple. It is a cluster of many shrines, each with its own rhythm, crowd, and etiquette. Ruhunu Maha Kataragama Devalaya This is the central shrine, and Lord Skanda is the presiding deity here. It has an ornate golden gateway, and it is a favorite photo spot in the temple.  Irrespective of your religious faith, you can enter the temple courtyard. However, the puja and other rituals in the inner sanctum are performed only by the priests or Kapuralas.  Evening pujas draw the thickest crowds. So, if you want space to actually look around rather than shuffle with the flow of people, an early morning visit works better. Kiri Vehera Kiri Vehera is a white dagoba, a short walk away from the main Devalaya.  It is connected to King Mahasena, one of the oldest Buddhist stupas built around the 6th century BCE. I circled it barefoot in the late afternoon. The dome looked beautiful after catching the light.  It was honestly one of the calmer moments of my visit and a useful contrast after the noise and colour of the Devalaya. Valli Amman Kovil And The Mosque The shrine dedicated to Valli, Skanda's consort, sits a little apart from the main Devalaya. During the Esala festival, the elephant procession famously travels between the two, symbolically re-enacting their union.  Nearby, the small mosque of Al-Khidr marks the site's connection to Islamic tradition. The Kataragama Esala Festival: Fire, Faith, And The Long Walk From Jaffna Esala Perahera is the main festival of the Kataragama Temple.  I did not time my own trip around that festival. However, I spoke to local shopkeepers, guesthouse owners, and priests about this event of their year. What Happens During the Festival The festival is held annually around the Esala full moon (July–August). It runs for roughly fourteen nights and draws upward of half a million pilgrims, according to festival guides tracking the event's scale.  Nightly perahera processions feature elephants and traditional dancers. Also, the drummers walk through the town after dark. The festivities then build toward two of the most intense rituals in Sri Lankan religious life. One is fire-walking across a bed of white-hot embers, and the other is the closing Water Cutting ceremony on the Menik Ganga at the festival's end. The Pada Yatra: A Two-Month Walk To Get There What struck me most was the journey some pilgrims take to reach it.  The Pada Yatra is a traditional foot pilgrimage that begins in the Jaffna Peninsula in the north. Some also start walking from Nagadipa, Vallipuram, Mullaitivu, Trincomalee, and Batticaloa. This is roughly a two-month walk to reach Kataragama, and they cover a distance of around 400 kilometers in the process.  They walk along the east coast and through wildlife reserves like Kumana and parts of Yala.  Also, they sleep outdoors, are fed by villagers along the route, and stop at dozens of shrines on the way. While talking to a local, he told me that these devotees visit around 70 temples en route.  I found it very similar to the Kanwar Yatra in the month of Shravan, or July-August, to many Shiva temples in India.  The tradition nearly disappeared during the civil conflict years but has been steadily reviving since the war ended. Festival Snapshot EventTypical TimingWhat to ExpectBest ForFlag Hoisting (Kodi Etruthal)Mid-JulyCeremonial start of the festival periodWitnessing the opening ritesNightly PeraheraThroughout the 14-night festivalElephants, dancers, drummers, processions with torch-bearersEvening spectacle, photographyFire-WalkingFinal days of the festivalDevotees walk a 20-foot ember pit.Serious devotees and observers, not participantsWater CuttingEsala Poya (full moon) nightClosing ritual on the Menik GangaMarking the festival's symbolic end Getting There Kataragama is around 228 km southeast of Colombo. You can travel to Kataragama via Tissamaharama.  Again, a visit to Kataragama and Yala Safari is the most natural combination you can think of.  Private car hire from Colombo takes around 4.5–5 hours. However, if you are traveling on a budget, you can take a bus to Tissamaharama or Wellawaya with a connecting local bus or tuk-tuk into Kataragama town. The bus ride from Colombo to Tissamaharama takes around 4.5 hours, and the ticket price is around LKR 750.  Furthermore, from Tissamaharama, a tuk-tuk ride to Kataragama will cost around LKR1800-1900.  When To Visit The Kataragama Temple?  If you want to experience the festival atmosphere, you can plan a visit around the Esala Perahera festival in July-August.  However, there will be a huge crowd and extreme heat. Also, the festivities and noise reach well into the night.  Again, you need to make bookings well in advance because the accommodations get filled during the festival.  For a quieter, contemplative visit, choose any other month. The November to April dry season offers the most comfortable weather for walking around the open, sun-exposed courtyard. A Simple One-Day Plan Around Kataragama TimeActivityNotesDuration7:00 AMArrive and take a ritual bath at Menik Ganga.Cooler hours, fewer crowds30 to 45 Minutes8:00 AMVisit Maha Devalaya courtyardMorning pujas draw smaller crowds than evening.45 Minutes9:00 AMWalk to Kiri VeheraCircumambulate the dagoba barefoot.30 to 45 Minutes10:00 AMValli Amman Kovil and nearby mosqueQuieter, less touristy corners30 Minutes11:00 AMLocal breakfast in townTry a simple rice-and-curry stall near the bazaar.1 Hour6:00 PMReturn for evening puja at the Devalaya.The most atmospheric time of day1 Hour to 1.5 Hours Continuing The Journey Through Southern Sri Lanka You can easily combine Kataragama with many other stops in the deep south and east.  Yala and Bundala National Parks are natural additions for a wildlife experience. However, Yala is getting more crowded every day.  On the other hand, Tissamaharama and the southern beach towns work well as a base for a multi-day loop.  Moreover, if you are building out a longer southern Sri Lanka itinerary, you can include the Wilpattu National Park, Hikkaduwa, Mirissa and Unawatuna in your list.  Thus, a Kataragama stop fits into a wider route.