Abhayagiri: Walking The Forgotten Monastery That Once Rivalled The Pyramids

BY  Sibashree Aug 17, 2026

Like everyone, I also had my sights set on the beach resorts of Bentota. I met Aluthgama by accident as I took a wrong turn off the Galle Road, chasing the smell of grilled seafood from a roadside stall.  Aluthgama is beautiful. It is a working coastal town with a river as its lifeline. The mangrove canoes and fishing boats share the water here.  Also, a 160-foot Buddha statue rising from the trees looks over the town.  Once I reached there, I lost track of time, and in this town, the pace of life still runs on tides rather than tourist schedules. Charmed by its art of slow traveling, I ended up staying three days in Aluthgama.  Where Is Aluthgama? What Is So Special About The Location?   Aluthgama is a coastal town in the Kalutara District of Sri Lanka's Western Province.  Also, it is about 63 kilometers south of Colombo, and its distance from Galle is around 68 kilometers.  This strategic position helps Aluthgama enjoy proximity to Colombo, the capital of the country. You can reach it from Colombo with an easy day drive or scenic coastal train ride.  However, the distance of 63 kilometers is enough to keep the unmistakable slower rhythm of the south coast intact in Aluthgama. Furthermore, the Bentota River creates a natural boundary between Aluthgama on the northern bank and Bentota on the southern bank.  These two are like twin towns; Bentota is more famous, though!  Aluthgama is very much a lived-in coastal town with a busy market and a fish market that starts operating before sunrise.  I also found the streets busy with tuk-tuk drivers. However, this crowd around the markets and the tuk-tuks ruling the streets do not make Aluthgama a tourist town.  It does not have anything pretentious about it, and that is most impressive. How To Reach Aluthgama From Colombo Fort? For the most authentic experience, you can take a train from Colombo Fort to Aluthgama. However, road travel options are also available.  By Train  Trains such as Ruhunu Kumari (Maradana → Matara), Samudra Devi (Maradana → Galle), and Maradana → Aluthgama.  The train ride of around 59.67 km takes between 57 minutes and 2 hours and 10 minutes.  Furthermore, the ticket price for this class is LKR 140, second class is LKR 300, and first class is LKR 600.  By Road You can opt for a private car/taxi ride for two hours. It will cost you around LKR 12000 to 15000. Also, you will get state-run CTB buses to Aluthgama from the Colombo Central Bus Stand. The travel time in these buses is around 2.5 hours, and the ticket price is between LKR 800 and 1100.  However, if you want a more comfortable experience, you can board the private buses from the Bastian Mawatha Bus Station. The ticket prices will be around LKR 1200.  What To Do Or Try In Aluthgama? A Quick Summary Of The Top Attractions CategoryWhat to Try / Do in AluthgamaSignature DishFish Ambul Thiyal (Sour Fish Curry with Goraka)River ExperienceMangrove Safari on the Bentota River, and Spotting Crocodiles, Kingfishers, Water MonitorsLandmarkKande Vihara Buddha Statue with a Height of 160 Feet and Depicting the Bhoomisparsha MudraWatersportsJet Skiing, Banana Boats, Speedboat Rides Near the River MouthShoppingGem and Jewelry Shops (Notably Blue Sapphires)Local Market for Spices and ProduceDay TripsKosgoda Sea Turtle Conservation ProjectMadu Ganga boat safariAmbalangoda Mask MuseumGalle FortDistance from Colombo63 km southDistance from Galle68 km northBest base forTravelers wanting a quieter, more local alternative to Bentota's resort strip The Bentota River Is The Heart Of Aluthgama  If you are planning a stay in Aluthgama like me, all the activities and attractions here center around the Bentota River.  From a slow paddle through the mangroves or an afternoon of watersports, every activity here is dependent on the river.  Mangrove Safaris And Wildlife In Aluthgama  I was not expecting much from the mangrove safaris here. I thought that it would be a slow boat ride and some birdwatching.  However, it turned out to be a two-hour adventure weaving through narrow mangrove channels so tight the branches brushed both sides of the canoe. I could also spot monitor lizards sunning on exposed roots and a small resident population of mugger crocodiles that our boatman pointed out with far more enthusiasm than I felt. Then, there were kingfishers! They flashed between the mangroves throughout the journey. Then, finally, the channel opened, and we reached Cinnamon Island. We explored the short loop past cinnamon trees.  It was amazing to see cinnamon being cultivated much as it was during the centuries when Ceylon cinnamon was one of the most valuable commodities on earth. I chose a shared safari, and that cost around 3000 LKR for me. However, you can also take a private boat for a mangrove safari, and that costs close to 6000-6500 LKR.  Watersports On The Bentota River  Along with the paddle boat ride across the mangroves, you can also try jet skiing, banana boat rides, and being towed behind a speedboat on an inflatable "sofa." You will mostly find these organizers and operators near the river mouth and along the Bentota side.  This section is touristy. So, the watersports services are well organized, and the charges are also quite reasonable.  Check out the table below for an estimate of the prices for watersports in Bentota.  ActivitiesCost Per Person (LKR)Jet Skiing (10/15 Minutes)3500-12000Banana Boat Rides (Per Round)1000-3000Sofa / Tube Rides (Per Round)1000-3000Paramotoring15000-20000Flying Activities15000-20000 Malu Banna Watersports & Activities Centre and River Adventure - Water Sports Center are some popular organizers of watersports on Bentota. The Buddha Statue: The Guardian Of Aluthgama  Kande Vihara temple in nearby Aluthgama-Dharga Town is a short distance from the town center.  As I reached the Kande Vihara temple, I saw one of the tallest Buddha statues in Sri Lanka. This seated statue of Buddha is around 160 feet tall, and what is more captivating is its bhoomisparsha mudra. It is an earth-touching gesture associated with the moment of the Buddha's enlightenment. I had seen the photographs of this Buddha statue, but I did not expect to find it in Aluthgama.  It was overwhelming, as I did not think that turning a wrong corner on a fairly ordinary road would lead me to a statue of that scale rising above the tree line.  This is life in a nutshell! There is a reason why I believe that traveling connects you to the mysteries and beauty of life more.  You get the most amazing things when least expected.  I saw locals visiting the Vihara to make offerings. The grandeur of the Buddha Statue and the overall ambiance reminded me of the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple.  The Vihara did not have much of a crowd. So, it saved me from the queued, roped-off feeling that is common in many religious sites in Sri Lanka.  Also, it was late afternoon, and the light caught the gold plating of the statue. Even the existing crowd started thinning out, and the silence was precious.  I missed Somraj, my partner here, as he adores quiet places and his love for Buddha and Buddhism is intense.  How To Reach The Kande Vihara Temple?  The distance is around 2.5 kilometers, and a tuk-tuk ride takes around 7-8 minutes. The driver charged me LKR 300 and told me that he would wait for 1 hour and bring me back if I gave him LKR 1000.  I was not ready to compromise my flexibility. So, I chose a one-way trip.  Aluthgama: A Market Town With Its Own Character  The temple and the river are the highlights for someone planning a trip to Aluthgama.  However, Aluthgama's real personality shows up in its everyday routines, including the market stalls, the gem shops, and the food that's cooked for locals as much as for visitors. Shopping And The Local Market  As I said, the town center of Aluthgama never tries to be what it is not. It is charming even without the polish of Bentota.  The main market is functional, with vendors selling fresh produce, dried fish, spices, and household goods.  There is an old-world charm, as spices here are not packaged. They are sold loose by weight. So, you will get the whiff every time you pass a spice stall.  Also, if you want to buy some jewelry, you can visit the small but well-regarded cluster of gem shops. Ask any tuk-tuk driver to take you to the shops.  The part of the coast on which Aluthgama sits is within reach of Sri Lanka's gem-trading networks.  A few local shops here have built reputations for genuine sapphires, which draws buyers who would rather shop here than in the more heavily marked-up tourist circuits further south. What To Eat In Aluthgama?  Food in Aluthgama is about fresh seafood, and the southern coast does it best.  I had the signature fish ambul thiyal there. It is a sour, dry fish curry cooked with goraka. Wherever you go to eat, you will find it at the top of the menu.  Also, Kottu roti, hoppers with that distinctive crisp-edged, custardy center, and pol sambol rounded out most meals. Furthermore, near the market, you will find stalls bringing seafood straight off boats and grilling it live for you. Day Trips You Can Plan From Aluthgama  What sold me on staying longer than planned was realizing how much sits within easy reach, both along the coast and inland. 1. South Toward Galle If you take the coastal road toward the south, you will find a series of worthwhile stops.  The Kosgoda Sea Turtle Conservation Project (Distance: Around 15 Kilometers) The Kosgoda Sea Turtle Conservation Project is the first stop, and I have already discussed it in my Bentota and Kalutara Guide.  Here, hatcheries work to protect several endangered turtle species that nest along this stretch of coast.  Madu Ganga Boat Trip (Distance: Around 19 Kilometers) Next, you can plan an extension to your mangrove safari in Bentota with a boat trip on the Madu Ganga estuary near Balapitiya.  It offers a slower experience. However, it is even more biodiverse than the Bentota mangrove ecosystem.  The Ariyapala Mask Museum In Ambalangoda (Distance: Around 25 Km) This is a delightful cultural experience. You will find elaborately carved devil-dance and ritual masks the region is known for in the museum.  Along with the Kolam, Sanni, and Raksha masks on display, the museum also allows you to see the local artisans making the masks.  I interacted with them, and they shared the story behind the mask they were making.  The Meetiyagoda Moonstone Mines (Distance: Around 34 Km) It is one of the few places in the world where the blue-sheened gem is found in commercial quantities.  You can also see the miners at work here.  Galle Fort  Push on further, and you reach Galle itself. It has a UNESCO-listed Dutch fort still ringed by ramparts and colonial-era buildings that make for one of the most atmospheric walks on the island. Inland Excursions You can also plan a day trip to the cultural triangle of Sri Lanka, including Sigiriya rock fortress and Dambulla's cave temples.  Furthermore, you can opt for wildlife safaris to Udawalawe National Park, known for reliable elephant sightings. Why Is Aluthgama Worth A Visit And Stay?  Aluthgama has more diverse accommodation options than you would expect in a quaint coastal town in Sri Lanka.  However, these setups have not impacted the natural rhythm of the town that would carry on much the same whether or not anyone stopped to look.  So, it is the perfect base, spending your days drifting through the mangroves and climbing up to see the Buddha statue at Kande Vihara. Also, eat more seafood than seems reasonable, and let Bentota's beaches be the postscript rather than the whole story.m

BY  Sibashree Sep 4, 2026

Before I reached the Wasgamuwa National Park, I had already completed the classic Sri Lankan safari.   In Yala National Park, the jeeps were queued, and when a leopard was spotted, all the vehicles were boxed around it.   The chaos was such that I almost forgot I was in the wilderness.   However, Wasgamuwa was the antidote I did not know I needed.  Our jeep drove in through the Handungamuwa entrance on a grey, humid morning, half-expecting another crowded circuit, and instead spent four hours without seeing another jeep.   That is Wasgamuwa's whole pitch!  You will find the same elephants, sloth bears, and dry-zone forest you would find in  Sri Lanka's headline parks, minus the traffic jam.  Quick Facts: Wasgamuwa National Park  Detail Information  Location Matale and Polonnaruwa Districts, Central/North Central Sri Lanka   Distance from Colombo   225 km (via Kandy–Hasalaka–Wilgamuwa Route)  Area   37,062 Hectares  Declared   7 August 1984 (Strict Nature Reserve since 1938)  Main Entrances   Handungamuwa Gate Kalundawa Gate  Park Hours  6:00 AM to 6:00 PM Daily Ticket Counter Hours  6:00 AM to 4:00 PM Known for Wild Elephant Herds Sri Lanka's Densest Sloth Bear Population  Nearest Towns  Polonnaruwa (10 Km) Hasalaka Wilgamuwa   How To Reach The Wasgamuwa National Park? The location of Wasgamuwa National Park is a little reclusive, for lack of a better word.   It is neither part of the hill country nor is it included in the cultural triangle. So, often, it is left out of usual Sri Lanka trip itineraries.   However, this national park is accessible from Colombo, Kandy, Sigiriya, Dambulla and Polonnaruwa.   So, you can plan a cultural trip combined with a wildlife experience by including the Wasgamuwa National Park in your bucket list.   From Colombo  The most straightforward route runs via Kandy on the A1, then the A26 towards Mahiyangana.   At Hasalaka, you turn off onto the Wilgamuwa road and follow it through to the park.   Budget five to six hours for the roughly 225 km drive, longer if you get stuck in Kandy's town traffic, which you almost certainly will around midday.  From Kandy, Sigiriya, And Dambulla  If you are already based in the Cultural Triangle, Wasgamuwa is a far more manageable side trip.  From Kandy, it is about 50 km northeast via Hasalaka and Wilgamuwa. So, it is just around a 90-minute drive from the Colombo slog.   On the other hand, Sigiriya Rock and the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple are around two hours away by road, and the route passes through Naula and Elahera.   So, as I did, you can tack a Wasgamuwa morning safari onto a Sigiriya stay rather than treating it as its own base.  The Expenses  A private car rental or taxi fare from Colombo to the Wasgamuwa National Park will cost you LKR 15000 onward.   So, the best option is to travel from Colombo to Kandy, stay there, and travel to the Wasgamuwa National Park from there.   To know more details about how to travel from Colombo to Kandy, you can check my guide.   From Sigiriya or the Dambulla Royal Cave, a public vehicle to this national park will cost you around LKR 10000.   From Polonnaruwa  Polonnaruwa is the closest major town, just 10 km from the park's northern boundary.  The  Wilgamuwa "Japan Bridge" gives easy access from the Mahaweli System C area.  Despite the short distance, the taxi fare from Polonnaruwa to Wasgamuwa is quite high. It will be around LKR 7000.   Also, for the jeep safari inside the national park, the cost will be around LKR 7500 to LKR 10000.   Entrance Fees And Permits   Category   Approximate Cost (2026)   Foreign Adult (12+)   USD 12  Foreign Child (6–12 Years)   USD 6  Foreign Children under 6 Years    Free  SAARC Nationals USD 10 for Adults USD 5 for Children between 6 and 12 Years Free for Children below 6 Years    Locals   Adults: LKR 60 Children from 6 to 12 Years: LKR 30 Children below 6 Years: Free Students: LKR 20   Vehicle Entry Ticket   LKR 300   Foreign Group Fee Per Vehicle   USD 10  What Is The Best Time To Visit Wasgamuwa National Park? You will have to decide the best time to visit the park based on the kind of experience you want.   For Elephant Herds   Wasgamuwa has a different timing for spotting the elephants than Minneriya.   During the dry months (roughly June to September), much of Wasgamuwa's elephant population actually migrates north toward Minneriya and Kaudulla in search of water, which is where you will find those spectacular 200-strong herds.   So, if you want to spot the elephants, November to May is when more of them stay resident within Wasgamuwa itself, following the Mahaweli River corridor that forms the park's eastern boundary.  Weather And General Visiting  The dry season from June to September offers comfortable safari conditions.  The thinner vegetation makes it easy to spot sloth bears and leopards.   October to January brings the northeast monsoon, when the park can turn muddy, and some interior tracks become difficult to navigate.  What To See Inside The Park? The park offers the most wonderful fusion of wildlife and history.   Wildlife  Wasgamuwa gets all the hype for its elephants. However, it also has sloth bears and leopards.  In fact, many surveys suggest that sloth bear density in this park is highest in Sri Lanka.   Also, some accounts suggest the park's own name derives from "walas" (sloth bear) and "gamuwa" (wood). So, it is literally the forest of the sloth bears.   Along with these three, you can even spot purple-faced langurs, wild boar, sambar, spotted deer, and water buffalo here.  Moreover,  in the park's pools and waterways reside water monitors, mugger and estuarine crocodiles, and pythons.   Birdlife is understated but real.  I counted painted storks, white ibis, and several raptors circling over the grasslands in a single morning.  Ancient Ruins Within The Park  Long before it was a protected area, this land carried Anuradhapura- and Polonnaruwa-era settlement.  I saw dagobas, an ancient canal system, and reservoir remains scattered through the jungle, well away from the standard vehicle tracks.  Moreover, the area between the park and the Mahaweli River has a link to a battlefield from the Dutugemunu–Elara conflict of the 2nd century BCE.  However, I could not visit most of the sites because I did not have the required special permission. Also, these are not part of the regular safari visits.   Safari Timings And Practicalities  Feature Half-Day Morning Half-Day Evening Full-Day Safari Timing 5:30 AM – 6:30 AM Start 2:30 PM / 3:00 PM – 6:00 PM Full day (split by picnic break) Duration 3 – 4 hours 3 – 4 hours All day Coverage Area Main tracks near Handungamuwa Gate Main tracks near Handungamuwa Gate Mahaweli riverbank sections Jeep Cost (LKR) 7,500 – 10,000 7,500 – 10,000 15,000 – 20,000 Wildlife Focus General park wildlife General park wildlife Reliable elephant sightings Hotel Pickup 30–60 mins early (if less than 5 km from gate) Varies by hotel proximity 30–60 mins early (if less than 5 km from gate)  A Sample One-Day Wasgamuwa Itinerary   Time   Activity  5:00 AM   Depart accommodation (Kandy base)  6:00–6:30 AM   Arrive at Handungamuwa Gate, complete entry formalities  6:30–10:00 AM   Morning Safari including Riverine Forest and Grassland Tracks  10:00–10:30 AM   Picnic/Tea Break Near Mahaweli Riverbank  10:30–11:30 AM   Continue Safari toward Interior Water Holes  11:30 AM   Exit Park and Return to Base  3:00–6:00 PM   Evening Safari Session with a Separate Entry  Wasgamuwa does not have the wall-to-wall wildlife density of Yala or the spectacle of Minneriya's Gathering.   However, you will get a quiet forest to explore for several hours. Also, the elephants and sloth bears here are never performing for the tourists or camera lenses.   So, I would pair it with a Cultural Triangle any day for the best value safari experience in the country. 

BY  Sibashree Sep 29, 2026

I got a glimpse of the Kiri Vehera through a gap in the trees.  It was milky white, and even early in the morning, it looked the brightest among the surrounding ruins.  Also, it is fascinating that the stupa is one of the few in Sri Lanka to have its original structure even after around 900 years.  Locals say that when the stupa was discovered amidst the jungle, its chunam, or lime coating,g was still intact.  Thus, it got its name as Kiri Vehera, or Milk White Stupa.  Furthermore, along with being the best-preserved stupa, it is also a classic example of Bubulakara, or the bubble-shaped form of stupa.  Kiri Vehera At A Glance DetailFactMeaning“Milk Stupa”It was originally called Rupavati Chetiya.BuilderQueen Subhadda, consort of Parakramabahu I (1153–1186)She was also known as Bhaddavati.TypeBubbulakara (bubble-shaped) stupa on three receding terracesHeightAround 24 meters for the damaged stupa. Base diameterAbout 26.8 metersTerraceAbout 57.6 metersRankSecond-largest stupa at PolonnaruwaStatusStill an active place of worshipEntry FeeIncluded in the $25 Polonnaruwa ticket. Hours7 AM to 5:30 PM My Walk Around The Milk Stupa Kiri Vehera is just north of Lankathilaka. I just took a short walk over after the image house to reach this stupa.  First Impressions Of The White Dome As I have mentioned, the white plaster of the dome glowed against the blue sky.  It has the simplest design with very little ornamentation.  Polonnaruwa’s builders kept this design deliberately simple. Small subsidiary stupas dot the platform, and the scale felt human rather than overwhelming. The Devatā Carvings Most People Miss Don’t miss a close look at devatā-koṭuva.  It has the most unusual carvings of deities, and these are uncommon for a stupa.  This drum-like structure has carvings of eight divine figures in a folded-hand posture. It looks like they are worshipping Lord Buddha.  Circling The Stupa With Respect I saw devotees visiting the stupa and offering flowers. They lit oil lamps and walked around the stupa as part of their prayer rituals. Also, you have to keep your shoes outside the brick fence.  History And Architecture The stupa dates to the reign of Parakramabahu I. Furthermore, it is part of the king’s vision to build a large monastic university, Alahana Pirivena.  Also, the building programme of the king helped reshape Polonnaruwa. Queen Bhaddavati And The Rupavati Chetiya The Mahavamsa credits the building of this stupa to Queen Bhaddavati.  As a woman, I appreciated the fact that the best-preserved monument in the ancient city is a queen’s commission, not a king’s. The Terraces And Dimensions  The architectural design of the monument features a stupa positioned directly in the center of an expansive square terrace, with each side stretching roughly 57.6 meters (189 feet).  The main dome spans a diameter of 26.8 meters (88 feet) at its base.  From the ground up to its fractured spire, the entire monument reaches an approximate height of 24 meters (80 feet). Supporting the core structure are three stepped basal terraces, traditionally called pesavas.  Standing between 0.9 and 1.2 meters (3 to 4 feet) high, these tiers likely functioned as pathways for devotional walking rituals (circumambulation) or as ledges for leaving flowers.  This design element directly mirrors ancient Indian architecture seen at historic sites like Sanchi. Sitting atop the dome is the hatareskotuva (a square tee) built from solid brick, measuring about 7.4 meters (24 feet 4 inches) wide and 3.7 meters (12 feet) tall.  Resting directly above this square section is the devata-kotuva (the enclosure of the deities), a rounded drum that is 2.9 meters (9 feet 6 inches) wide and 2.3 meters (7 feet 8 inches) high.  This circular tier is decorated with carvings of eight gods shown praying with their hands joined in deep respect.  The final crowning element is the kota (spire), which extends upward for another 7 meters (23 feet), though fragments of the spire have eroded away over the centuries. The Relic Chambers And The Interior Of The Stupa In the early 1900s, British archaeologist H. C. P. Bell conducted systematic excavations that offered a rare glimpse into the inner architecture of the stupa.  During his investigation, Bell uncovered a winding, 25-foot (7.6-meter) tunnel carved out centuries earlier by grave robbers targeting the structure's sacred treasures.  After clearing out this passageway, his team discovered two upper relic chambers that had unfortunately already been broken into and stripped of their valuables. The first looted chamber spanned roughly 11 feet 2 inches (3.4 meters) wide. It originally housed structural foundations meant to secure a yantragala (a traditional stone reliquary). It also had a sacred Mahameru stone, which serves as a symbolic representation of the cosmic mountain. Crucially, a third, lower chamber escaped destruction.  Because the historical looters had not dug deep enough, this final vault remained perfectly sealed and intact.  Out of preservation and respect, Bell’s archaeological team made the deliberate decision to leave this third chamber unopened. Why The Plaster Survived When the jungle was cleared after roughly 700 years of neglect, the lime plaster was in near-perfect condition.  Engineers describe these plasters as closer to lime-concrete than ordinary stucco.  That waterproof skin explains why brick has not crumbled here as it has elsewhere. Kiri Vehera Vs Rankot Vehera: Two Ways To Read A Stupa I compared Polonnaruwa’s two great stupas on the same day. Each of them has a different mood. Rankot is impressive because of its size, while Kiri Vehera impresses by its survival. FeatureKiri VeheraRankot VeheraBuilderQueen Bhaddavati (12th century)King Nissanka Malla (1187–1196)HeightAbout 24 Meters54 MetersSurfaceOriginal lime plaster largely intactExposed brick, like most stupas of its era.Best forPreservation and quiet worshipSheer scale How I Would Fit It Into A Day I spent about 45 minutes here, then moved on to Gal Vihara before the midday heat.  Also, it is a short walk from Lankathilaka and offers the strongest contrast in appearance. The image house is a ruin, and the Buddha statue there is headless. However, this stupa has had the same structure since the time of its foundation.  Photography Tips With its human scale, Kiri Vehera is a favorite of photo enthusiasts.  However, if you are visiting the stupa mid-day, the mid-day glare will bounce off the white plaster.  On the other hand, morning and late afternoon, with softer light, are better times of the day for photography.  Also, never take selfies posing back to the stupa, as it is disrespectful, and the guides will stop you if you even try to do that.  Why Kiri Vehera Matters Today The ruins of the Anuradhapura Sacred City and other remains of Polonnaruwa raise a question. What did these monuments look like when they were finished?  Kiri Vehera is the only monument to offer an answer to this.  Also, as a living worship shrine, it is a site that allows you to slow down.  So, if you are rushing past it on the way to Gal Vihara, you will miss the quiet centre of the northern complex.