It was still pitch dark when I left Nuwara Eliya. I was wrapped in every layer I had.
It was a bit weird, and I felt overpacked considering Sri Lanka spends most of the year in a state of tropical sweat.
After an hour and a half, I was standing at the entrance gate of Horton Plains National Park. My breath was fogging, and I realized that it was actually Cold and not the Sri Lankan cold you would usually expect.
On a high plateau in the Central Highlands, the Horton Plains National Park sits at an elevation of more than 2100 meters.
Unlike most of the Sri Lankan landscape I have explored, the Horton Plains National Park does not have rice paddies, palm trees, and the lowland heat haze.
In fact, it looked like the Scottish Highlands with gnarled cloud forest, windswept grassland, and silence broken by birdsong.
So, overall, it looked like a contradiction in the middle of a tropical island country.
Horton Plains: A Plateau With A History
Horton Plains stands out with an ecological and historical weight. This weight is more than the windswept image it has.
Long before it became a popular hiking destination, it was famous as a colonial retreat, and in July 2010, it became a UNESCO-listed ecosystem as part of the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka.
From Maha Eliya Thenna To National Park
Horton Plains was earlier known as Maha Eliya Thenna before it became a national park.
Maha Eliya Thenna means “The Great Open Plain.” During British Rule, it was renamed after Sir Robert Wilmot-Horton.
He was a governor of Ceylon. Also, during that time, the highlands became a retreat for planters escaping the heat of the lowlands.
Until 1969, the Horton Plains was not formally protected. Then, it became a wildlife sanctuary.
Finally, in 1988, it got the full designation as a national park.
Then came 2010, when Horton Plains got the UNESCO designation along with the Peak Wilderness Protected Area (home to Adam’s Peak) and the Knuckles Mountain Range.
Together, these three protected areas form what conservationists describe as one of the island’s most important biodiversity hotspots, sheltering species found nowhere else on Earth.
Why The Ecosystem Matters
Sri Lanka, being a party to the Convention on Biological Diversity, submitted the “Sixth Annual Report” in 2019.
I am quoting the content of the report as highlighted by the Daily Mirror Online here.
“The Peak Wilderness Sanctuary, Horton Plains, and the surrounding protected and unprotected areas containing small wet-zone forests possess the highest levels of endemic plant and animal diversity in Sri Lanka.”
The Horton Plains National Park is also the source of the three major rivers in Sri Lanka.
Mahawell
Kelani
Walawe.
Moreover, as an important ecological region, it was the first national park in the island country to ban single-use plastics.
So, when you are about to enter the national park, the rangers check the bags at the entrance. You have to leave the water bottles (if you are carrying water in single-use plastic ones) and snack packets before entering it.
The Walk Itself
Recently, there have been talks about the reopening of the Nonpareil Estate and Nagrak to Horton Plains route.
After failed attempts in 2015, and 2020, this recent request in August 2026 has been submitted by the tourism hotel operators.
The Development Committee meeting has also discussed this matter and Gayani Renuka, the Divisional Secretary of Imbulpe, has presented it before Dr. Dhammika Patabendi, the Minister of Environment.
However, there are uncertainties about reopening this route for better accessibility because of environmental concerns and the pristine nature of the Horton Plains.
So, if you go for a trek now, you have to pass through three distinct moments strung along one loop trail.
Each loop has a distinct character.
The Main Loop
The distance of the main trail is around 9 to 9.5 kilometers. At an easy, photo-stopping pace, you can cover the loop in 3 to 4 hours.
There is no steep elevation gain. So, technically, it is not a difficult trek to complete. Also, the route is well-maintained and well-marked.
However, the elevation adds to the challenges of trekking. Add to that the cold, unfamiliar to most parts of Sri Lanka!
You can complete the loop clockwise like most hikers. Thus, you will reach Little World’s End first and then World’s End.
Next, you will find the Baker’s Falls on the return leg. Walking it this way means you catch the two main viewpoints while the sky still has a chance of being clear.
Little World’s End
About 3.5 kilometres in, this is the warm-up act.
The Little World’s End is a cliff edge with a drop of around 270 metres.
It is less dramatic than what comes next, but on a clear morning you can see the patchwork of tea estates and village rooftops laid out far below.
It is often far less crowded than its famous neighbour.
World’s End
Roughly 4 kilometres from the start, this is the reason everyone makes the pre-dawn drive.
It is a sheer escarpment that drops somewhere between 870 and 880 metres, depending on which source you believe.
Also, there is genuinely nothing gentle about it.
A low metal railing marks the edge in places, but a fair stretch of it has nothing but exposed rock and open air.
So it is worth keeping a firm grip on children and a healthy respect for the drop yourself.
On a clear day, the view stretches all the way to the south coast, nearly 100 kilometres away.
The feeling, standing at nearly 2,000 metres above sea level, is inexplicable.
I got lucky with about ten clear minutes before the mist rolled back in, and it was enough to understand why people set their alarms for 3 AM to be here.
Baker’s Falls
Baker’s Falls is an important landmark on the way back, and you will find it after completing a hike of 7.5 kilometers.
The waterfall is modest, but its beauty is unmatched. Moss-covered boulders and cloud forest thick with ferns frame this 20-meter waterfall.
I wanted a closer look at this beautiful fall. So, I took a short flight of stone steps leading down to the base.
Longer Routes For The Ambitious
If you have more time and stamina, longer routes branch off toward Kirigalpotta, Sri Lanka’s second-highest peak, and Thotupola Kanda, the third-highest, along with a section of the long-distance Pekoe Trail that now runs through part of the park.
These require permits and, in most cases, a guide, but they are a genuine option if the main loop leaves you wanting more.
When To Visit The Horton Plains National Park?
The gates of the Horton Plains National Park open at 6 AM. By 9:30 or 10 AM, the mist in the national park rolls in and swallows the views.
I came across one highland lodge owner online. He runs a “Highland Trek” experience out of Nuwara Eliya.
He said, “It is not just the sunrise if you reach the Horton Plains National Park by 6 AM. Reaching early also helps you to beat the cloud that builds through the morning.”
The park stretch is the driest and clearest during these months.
However, being the best time, this window also brings heavy crowds on weekends and local holidays.
April through September brings more mist and drizzle, and while the views become less reliable, the trail is also quieter.
Several travellers I found comparing notes online argued that a misty, moody Horton Plains has its own appeal. It is just a different trip than the postcard version.
Wildlife, Without The Big Cat Guarantee
The Sambar Deer is the poster animal of the Horton Plains National Park. I could spot them easily.
If you especially visit the park early in the morning, you will find these adorable creatures grazing in the open grassland.
Furthermore, if you are a bird-watcher, you will find endemics like the Sri Lanka whistling thrush and the yellow-eared bulbul.
Other birds you will find here are:
Scaly-Breasted Munia
Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush
Sri Lanka Spurfowl
Horton Plains is also, on paper, a leopard territory with the Sri Lankan leopard as the apex predator here.
However, sightings are exceptionally rare, and I would not build a trip around the hope of one. Most guides are refreshingly honest about this rather than overselling it.
Instead, expect wildlife such as Fishing Cat, Grizzled Giant Squirrel, and Wild Boar here.
If you are here to spot reptiles, watch out for the black-cheek lizard, Boie’s rough-sided snake, and the horned lizard.
The Nelu Bloom: A Once-In-A-Generation Sight
The flowering of the Nelu is one of the main highlights of the Horton Plains National Park. This flower of a genus of shrubs in the highlands does not bloom every year.
In fact, these flowers bloom once every 12 years.
When these flowers bloom, the entire hillsides turn a soft purple-blue almost overnight. You must have seen these photographs on Instagram.
Sample Itinerary
Most visitors do Horton Plains as a single early-morning excursion, but there are a few ways to structure the day depending on your fitness, time, and onward travel plans.
Half-Day Trip From Nuwara Eliya To Horton Plains National Park
Time
Activity
3:30–4:00 AM
Wake up, dress in layers, depart Nuwara Eliya.
5:00–5:30 AM
Arrive at Horton Plains entrance, buy tickets, bag check.
6:00 AM
Gate opens, begin the loop (clockwise).
6:00–7:00 AM
Walk to Little World’s End (3.5 km).
7:00–7:45 AM
Reach World’s End, main viewpoint stop.
7:45–9:00 AM
Continue on the loop to Baker’s Falls, a short detour to the base.
9:00–10:00 AM
Finish the loop back to the car park.
10:00–11:30 AM
Drive back to Nuwara Eliya and have breakfast en route or in town,
Extended Day Trip (With Kirigalpotta Or Thotupola Kanda)
Time
Activity
3:30–4:00 AM
Depart Nuwara Eliya.
5:30–6:00 AM
Arrive and buy extended tickets and permits for an extended trail if required.
6:00–10:00 AM
Main Loop Little World’s EndWorld’s EndBaker’s Falls.
10:00 AM–1:00 PM
Extended Trail Kirigalpotta or Thotupola Kanda with a guide.
1:00–2:00 PM
Return to car parkDrive back
3:00 PM onward
Late lunch in Nuwara Eliya and relax
Moreover, instead of making a return to Nuwara Eliya, you can continue your journey to beautiful Ella.
Tentative Cost Breakdown
Costs vary depending on how you get there and whether you hire a guide, but here’s a realistic breakdown to budget against.
Entrance Fees
Item
Approximate Cost
Foreign adult, day visit
USD 25 per person
Foreign child
USD 12
Sri Lankan national, day visit
LKR 150 for AdultsLKR 75 for ChildrenLKR 20 for Local Students with Valid ID
Vehicle entry
LKR 250-1000 for VehiclesDrive/Guide Fee:
Overnight/extended permit (for longer trails)
Around LKR 2400 for a Campsite of 12 People.
Tickets are generally sold only at the entrance, not online. So budget extra queueing time in peak season (December–March, weekends).
Transport From Nuwara Eliya
Option
Approximate Cost
Private car, round trip with 3-hour wait
LKR 5000 to LKR 13000
Tuk-tuk, round trip
LKR 1500-2000
Organised half-day tour (driver + guide)
LKR 6000 Per Person
Full-day customisable tuk-tuk/car tour (Horton Plains + extras)
LKR 10000 for the vehicle/group
Other Costs To Budget For
Item
Approximate Cost
Local guide (optional, for main loop)
LKR 600
Guide for extended trails (Kirigalpotta/Thotupola)
LKR 700
Breakfast/snacks in Nuwara Eliya after the hike
LKR 300-400 Per Person
Tips for driver (customary but not obligatory)
Around LKR 200
Rough Total, Per Person
For a solo or paired traveler doing the standard half-day loop with a shared private car, all-in costs typically will start from around LKR 15000.
What People Are Actually Saying About The Horton Plains National Park
Beyond the official descriptions, recent traveller reviews and hiking forums paint a fuller, more candid picture of what to actually expect.
The Praise
I have checked the recent traveler reviews and hiking forums for recent updates on the Horton Plains trek, as it has been almost 2 years since I have been there.
I have got a pretty consistent and useful picture of the park beyond the marketing photos.
People consistently describe the loop as peaceful, scenic, and surprisingly quiet once you are past the entrance area, with several remarking that they barely saw another hiker on the trail itself despite a busy car park.
The cool climate and the drama of World’s End come up again and again as the highlight, and more than one reviewer said the steep entrance fee for foreign visitors was worth it for the experience alone.
The Complaints
The complaints cluster around two things.
First, Value For Money At The Gate
Several visitors felt the facilities, particularly the restrooms, didn’t match what they were paying.
They especially compared the facilities with well-maintained remote parks elsewhere in the world.
Second, Logistics
Getting to the park without a private vehicle or organised transport is genuinely difficult, and a few forum threads mention drivers or ticket-side “tips” being expected in ways that caught first-time visitors off guard.
My own advice, echoing what I saw repeated often:
Agree on a return fare with your driver before you set off.
Keep small notes handy at the gate.
Treat the fee as the cost of one of the more unusual landscapes in South Asia rather than comparing it to lowland attraction pricing.
Also, there are concerns about the vulnerability of the Horton Plains National Park. It is disappointing that I did not find many travelers talking about it.
The Vulnerabilities
“Many visitors to the Horton Plains NP come here when they are on holiday in Nuwara Eliya and that is the loud and boisterous behaviour they bring here as well, creating much havoc in this sensitive area.”
These are the words of Sankha Wanniatchi, an author, photographer and leopard researcher. He shared his views with The Sunday Times regarding the “Clarion Call to Protect Vulnerable Horton Plains NP.”
The researcher has also urged the Sri Lankan authorities to refer to Yellowstone National Park for implementing strict regulations in the Horton Plains National Park.
His suggestions include relocating the entry gate to the national park, as the stretch between the Pattipola Railway Station and the entry gate is ripe with wildlife activities.
An overspeeding car killing a young sambar in the stretch has strengthened his claim.
Moreover, there are suspicions of poaching activities, with loud sounds of gunshots being heard outside the boundary lines.
Practical Notes For Your Own Visit
A short checklist of the logistics worth locking down before you leave your hotel.
Getting There
Horton Plains is roughly 32 kilometres, about 1.5 hours by road, from Nuwara Eliya, which is the most common base.
A hired car or tuk-tuk with waiting time is the standard arrangement. Public transport options are limited and awkward for the early departure time you will want.
What To Bring
Carry layers, a light rain jacket, sturdy closed shoes, and cash for the entrance and any incidentals.
There is no phone signal inside the park, which, once you adjust to it, becomes part of the appeal.
Was It Worth The 3 AM Alarm?
Genuinely, yes. Horton Plains is not trying to be the rest of Sri Lanka, and that is exactly what makes it worth the detour from the hill country’s tea estates and waterfalls.
It is cold, it is a little inconvenient to reach, and the view you are chasing is entirely at the mercy of the weather.
However, standing at the edge of an 880-metre drop with the whole southern half of the island somewhere beneath the mist is not an experience you get anywhere else on this coastline.
Set the alarm. Bring the jacket you think you won’t need. It is worth it.
Sibashree is a travel, culture, and leisure writer who has been writing since the age of 12 and professionally since 2014. With more than a decade of travel writing experience and journeys across India and several parts of the world, she brings a deeply personal and thoughtful perspective to her work. A student of English Literature and Mass Communication, Sibashree has always viewed travel as more than movement — for her, it has been a way of understanding people, cultures, and herself. Her passion for spiritual exploration has also led her to many unusual and meaningful destinations over the years. Outside of writing, Sibashree enjoys watching European cinema, reading about global politics, and reflecting on the stories hidden within everyday places.
I saw the Knuckles Mountain Range from a distance, and I knew where it got its name from.
Near Riverston, the ridgeline transformed into a row of rounded peaks with unique folds. The folds further made it look like a clenched fist against the sky.
I was expecting an extension of Nuwara Eliya or the charm of Ella in the Knuckles Mountain Range.
However, instead of the tea estates, I got days of cloud forest, leech socks, village guides, and a silence so complete that I could hear my own footsteps on the trail.
Also, if you have loved Horton Plains National Park, you will definitely cherish the Knuckles Mountain Range, the less-polished and wilder counterpart.
Where The Knuckles Mountain Range Is And The Mystery Behind Its Name
The Knuckles Conservation Forest is in the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka. It is between the Kandy and Matale districts and at a distance of around 30 to 40 kilometers northeast of Kandy Town.
Furthermore, it stands between the Kandy and Matale districts.
The Mountain Range gets its name from five or six peaks that you can see from certain angles. These peaks, with their folds and unique round shapes, resemble knuckles on a closed fist.
However, the local name for the mountain range is Dumbara Kanduvetiya. The name means the "misty mountain range."
Honestly, I could relate to this name more during my visit. On the two days I visited the mountain range, the Sun was not out even when it was 9 AM.
In 2010, the Knuckles Mountain Range got the designation of a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Sri Lankan Central Highlands listing.
It got the designation because of how many distinct climate zones and endemic species are packed into a relatively small area.
How To Reach The Knuckles Mountain Range?
Most people base themselves in Kandy or the small village of Meemure, Corbett's Gap, or Hunnasgiriya before heading in.
I stayed in a homestay near Hunnasgiriya, which cut my morning drive to the trailhead down to about 40 minutes.
FromDistanceApprox. Travel TimeKandy30–42 km (depending on trailhead)1.5 to 2 hours by tuk-tuk or carColombo140 km4 to 4.5 hours by carMatale25 km1 hourDambulla45 km1.5 hours
There is no train access into the range itself.
So, a hired vehicle, tuk-tuk, or your own transport is essentially mandatory.
Roads narrow into single-lane gravel past Loolwatte, and a couple of the approach roads are only comfortable in a 4WD or trail bike during monsoon months.
What Makes Knuckles Different From Other Highland Parks
If you have already read up on Horton Plains, you will know that the park is essentially a single well-marked loop trail to World's End.
Knuckles is the opposite. It is a sprawling, largely unmarked forest reserve with more than 35 identified peaks and a dozen-plus trail combinations, most of which require a local guide.
I hired mine through the Forest Department office near the Wattegama entrance, and I am glad I did.
Without him, I would have missed the point entirely where the trail splits toward Deer Park versus the summit route.
Flora And Fauna
The range spans five distinct climatic zones within a 20-kilometer radius, which is unusual anywhere in the world.
On my hike, I moved from dry-zone scrub near the base, through a submontane forest thick with orchids, into genuine cloud forest by midday, where the canopy dripped constantly even without rain.
FeatureDetailsElevation range300 Meters to 1,863 Meters (Knuckles Peak)Endemic plant speciesOver 160 RecordedBird speciesAround 128 Bird Species, including the Endemic Sri Lanka Whistling ThrushNotable wildlifePurple-faced LangurRusty-Spotted CatKandyan DrongoBest known peaksKnuckles PeakGombaniyaCorbett's GapDeer Plateau
I did not spot the rusty-spotted cat, and almost nobody does.
However, I did have a long, unbothered staring match with a purple-faced langur troop near Deer Park, and the birdlife alone was worth the leech bites.
Popular Trails And What To Expect
You can choose the loops and trails in the Knuckles Mountain Range based on the kind of experience you want.
The Meemure Loop
This is the trail most guides recommend for a first visit.
It is a roughly 10-kilometer loop through the traditional village of Meemure, one of Sri Lanka's most isolated settlements.
It is still reachable only by a single mountain road.
I spent a night here in a village home, ate red rice and jackfruit curry cooked over a wood fire, and left with a much better sense of why people describe Knuckles as a living landscape rather than just a park.
Corbett's Gap And Riverston
If you have limited time, Riverston is the easiest win.
It is a short drive-up viewpoint rather than a trek, and on a clear morning the "Bible Rock" formation and the valley below are genuinely dramatic.
I would treat this as a half-day add-on rather than the main event.
Knuckles Peak Summit Trail
This is the demanding one.
It is approximately a 14-kilometer round trip with a real elevation gain, usually done as a full-day hike starting before dawn.
Expect grassland patches, patana grass ridgelines, and a scramble near the top.
I would not recommend it without a guide or without reasonable fitness. Parts of the descent were harder on my knees than the climb up.
TrailDistanceDifficultyTime NeededRiverston / Corbett's Gap1–2 Km ViewpointsEasy2–3 HoursMeemure Loop10 KmModerateFull day / OvernightKnuckles Peak Summit14 km round tripChallengingFull day (Start Pre-Dawn)Deer Park Trail6 KmModerateHalf Day
Practical Tips From My Trip
Leeches are real and constant in the wetter zones, especially June through September. So, leech socks aren't optional; I learned this the hard way on day one.
Weather flips fast. I packed for cold cloud-forest mornings and sweated through humid valley afternoons on the same day.
A guide is genuinely necessary for anything beyond Riverston. Trails are not signposted, and the Forest Department requires registered guides for most routes anyway.
The best season is broadly February to April and August to September, avoiding the heaviest southwest monsoon rains.
Phone signal disappears past Hunnasgiriya on most networks, so download offline maps beforehand.
Entry to the Knuckles Mountain Range is free. However, based on the loop you take, the trekking and permit charges will be between LKR 1000 and LKR 2500.
Where To Stay Near The Knuckles Mountain Range?
Options are simple by design. This is not a resort destination.
Homestays in Meemure and Loolwatte give the most authentic experience.
On the other hand, Hunnasgiriya and Corbett's Gap have a handful of small eco-lodges with better amenities if you want a hot shower after the hike.
Knuckles Mountain Range: The Ultimate Remoteness Of Sri Lanka
Knuckles won't give you the manicured, easy-access experience of Horton Plains or the tea-country views of Nuwara Eliya.
What it gives instead is a genuine sense of remoteness.
I found village life largely untouched by tourism, a forest that changes character every few hundred meters of elevation, and trails that still require a bit of local knowledge to navigate.
If World's End felt like Sri Lanka's highlands on display, Knuckles felt like walking into them.
I am already planning a return trip to attempt the summit trail from the Deanston side, weather permitting.
Polonnaruwa is filled with ancient structures, shrines, and temples. So, it draws the attention of people who are interested in visiting a place of great historical importance.
In this article, I will give you some important tips and talk about the places, sites, and the history of the place that drew my attention.
A Brief History Of Polonnaruwa
Before getting into other details, we should take a look at the history of the place. Furthermore, knowing the history of Polonnaruwa will make the trip more interesting.
Polonnaruwa was the second major capital of Sri Lanka, which came to prominence after the destruction of Anuradhapura in 993 AD.
Moreover, it was the most important commercial and religious center of that time. Polonnaruwa reached its golden age in the 12th century under King Parakramabahu I.
The Chola Period (10th Century To 11th Century)
The South Indian Chola dynasty conquered the ancient capital of Anuradhapura and made Polonnaruwa their new capital.
Moreover, they renamed the city Jananathamangalam and built several Brahmanical monuments like the Siva Devale temple.
Furthermore, the Cholas chose Polonnaruwa over Anuradhapura as the capital because it was positioned strategically in the heart of Sri Lanka.
Additionally, the position of the city also gave them protection against the rebellion of the Ruhunu Sinhalese kingdom.
Sinhalese Golden Age (11th Century To 12th Century)
The strategically positioned capital couldn't stay protected from the Sinhalese.
Eventually, in 1070, the Sinhalese King Vijayabahu I defeated the Cholas and restored Sinhalese rule. He also kept Polonnaruwa as the capital of the Sinhalese kingdom.
The city reached its highest glory under his successors:
King Parakramabahu 1 (1153 to 1186): King Parakramabahu 1 is often called the Great. He turned the city into a beautiful garden city during his rule.
Additionally, he built Vaijayanta Pasada (Royal Palace) and intricate temples like the Lankatilaka Temple.
Moreover, he built a massive 25-square-kilometer artificial lake known as Parakrama Samudra to secure water for his people.
King Nissanka Malla (1187 to 1196): King Nissanka Malla also tried to match his predecessors' construction projects. In trying to do so, he ended up bankrupting the kingdom.
Decline And Rediscovery (13th Century Onwards)
There were several invasions and turmoils going on because of which the city’s resources and administrative system collapsed in the early 13th century.
The capital moved to the southwestern side of the island, and gradually, the jungle spread through Polonnaruwa.
Finally, archeologists rediscovered the ruins of Polonnaruwa in 1860, and the forgotten city stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Places To Visit In Polonnaruwa
Polonnaruwa is a place of historical significance.
The ancient structures, shrines, and temples draw the attention of visitors. What amazed me was the well-preserved ancient remains.
Moreover, I feel that a bicycle is an amazing option for traveling through the city.
Places I found most amazing in Polonnaruwa are:
The Gal Vihara
The Gal Vihara is four giant Buddha statues, which are carved out of a large granite gneiss rock. The images consist of a large seated figure, another smaller seated figure inside an artificial cavern, a standing figure, and a reclining figure.
Additionally, King Parakramabahu I fashioned this rock structure in the 12th century.
Moreover, there is a story regarding this rock structure, which is one of the four statues, that isn't actually Buddha. Many people say that it is one of his grieving apprentices.
The Polonnaruwa Vatadage
Remaining unnoticed for several centuries, the excavation of Polonnaruwa Vatadage started in 1903.
Many people believe that Parakramabahu 1 built this place to hold the relic of the tooth of Buddha.
Moreover, another group of people believes that King Nissanka Malla built this place to hold the alms bowl used by Buddha.
Additionally, the structure has two stone platforms decorated with stone carvings. You can enter the lower platform through a single entrance, which is facing the north.
You can enter the second platform through four doorways facing four cardinal points.
Hatadage
Hatadage is another place that I found very fascinating. This place is found next to the Vatadage.
This place holds a historical importance for tourists. Hatadage is located in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. According to historians, King Nissanka Malla built this place.
Moreover, Nissanka Malla built this place as a shrine to keep the relic of the tooth of the Buddha.
Furthermore, many people say that the place holds sixty relics. I found this place very fascinating to visit.
The Lankatilaka Temple
The Lankatilaka Temple is another interesting place to visit. The temple is located on Panhalgala Rock in Udunuwara.
Moreover, King Bhuvanekabahu 4 constructed this temple. Additionally, the temple has beautiful stonework, rock inscriptions in both Sinhala and Tamil, and a striking dragon arch.
The walls of the temple reach 17 meters in height and have a large statue of Buddha. Furthermore, the design of the stairways of the temple drew my attention.
Every step of the stairway is only 10 centimeters wide. So, it is difficult to climb. Moreover, with such short steps, the only way to climb down is sideways.
While climbing down this manner, you won't be able to turn your back towards the statue of Buddha, which is also considered disrespectful.
Rankoth Vehera Stupa
The Rankoth Vehera Stupa is the largest stupa in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. King Nissanka Malla built it.
The fascinating part of the stupa is that it is built entirely of brick, and it is set upon a large square terrace. When you walk around the stupa, you will get to know how big it is.
How To Go Around Polonnaruwa?
There are several ways to go around Polonnaruwa. The two most convenient ways are:
Bicycle
According to me, the best way to see Polonnaruwa is by bicycle.
Moreover, there are many ruins spread out throughout Polonnaruwa, and a bicycle will let you move freely from one place to another.
Furthermore, there are many hotels and shops in Polonnaruwa from where you can rent a bicycle. Finally, renting a bicycle will make your trip convenient and budget-friendly.
Tuk Tuk
Tuk-tuk is also a good option for going around in Polonnaruwa.
Moreover, hiring a tuk tuk will also provide you with a driver as a guide, which is very amazing to see the ancient city.
Furthermore, you should choose a tuk-tuk if you are in a hurry. Though I prefer renting a bicycle.
How To Reach Polonnaruwa?
I will give a few routes for Polonnaruwa with cost and travel time. You can choose the convenient one for you.
From Sigiriya To Polonnaruwa
Bus: Sigiriya – Inamaluwa – Polonnaruwa – Kaduruwela | After a short tuk-tuk journey from Sigiriya to Inamaluwa, jump on the bus to Kaduruwela.
Cost: Tuk-tuk from Sigiriya to Inamaluwa 500 LKR, ($2.8) | Bus from Inamaluwa to Polonnaruwa 200 LKR, ($1) per person
Travel time: 1.5 hours
From Dambulla To Polonnaruwa
Bus: Dambulla – Polonnaruwa – Kaduruwela | Take a direct bus that heads for Kaduruwela from the Dambulla Main bus stop. The bus leaves every 20-30 minutes starting from 7 am.
Cost: Bus from Dambulla to Kaduruwela – 220 LKR ($1) per person
Travel time: 1.5 to 2 hours
From Trincomalee To Polonnaruwa
Bus: Trincomalee – Habarana – Polonnaruwa | A quite difficult journey. From Trincomalee, take a bus heading for Dambulla or Colombo.
Tip: Before entering, ask if the bus driver stops in Habarana and if there is a connection to Polonnaruwa. Generally, you’ll find buses that stop in Polonnaruwa at the Habarana Junction.
Cost: Bus from Trincomalee to Habarana – 120 LKR, ($0.70) | Bus from Habarana to Polonnaruwa – 80 LKR, ($0,50)
Travel time: 4 hours
From Colombo To Polonnaruwa
Train: Colombo Fort – Polonnaruwa | A rough journey that is packed and heads out to the east coast of Sri Lanka. Personally, I recommend visiting Kandy and Sigiriya in between.
Cost: 2nd class: 350 LKR ($2) per person, 3rd class: 200 LKR ($1) per person
Travel time: 6.5 hours
What To Eat In Polonnaruwa?
In Polonnaruwa, you should always go for authentic Sri Lankan rice and curry. I will mention some of the best dishes according to my choice:
Traditional Rice And Curry
There are many places in Polonnaruwa where you can get an authentic Sri Lankan platter or buffet.
In this platter, you will get 10 to 30 freshly made vegetable and meat curries. Moreover, this will be served on a lotus leaf.
String Hoppers
String hoppers are a breakfast and dinner dish. It is made of steamed rice flour noodles. Additionally, they serve it with spicy coconut sambal (Pol Sambol) and dal (Lentil) curry.
Polos (Young Jackfruit) Curry
It is a green jackfruit curry. It is cooked slowly and looks like meat. Additionally, they cook it with regional spices, which enhance the taste of the dish.
Where To Eat In Polonnaruwa
There are some places you can go to get high-quality, authentic Sri Lankan food. I will share some places that I liked.
Jaga Food
It is a good place you can go to have your Sri Lankan buffet prepared in a traditional clay pot. Moreover, this is a place with an excellent outdoor seating arrangement.
Priyamali Gedara
It serves authentic, high-quality local home-cooked curries.
Tree Hut Restaurant
I found this place amazing because of its blend of traditional local dishes with Chinese-inspired options.
Mullaitivu left me quiet with the heavy history of the Sri Lankan Civil War.
And Kalpitiya was another surprise during my trip to Sri Lanka.
Kalpitiya is a kitesurfing town, and in fact, Kalpitiya has been an important spot to boost tourism in Sri Lanka for the last 15 years with its kitesurfing adventures.
Furthermore, in September 2025, Kalpitiya saw its longest kitesurfing adventure, “a nearly 200-kilometre journey from Anawasala point in Kalpitiya to Talaimannar.”
Surfers from Sri Lanka, Italy and Germany took part in this surfing adventure. Also, Sara Johanna Berg, while speaking to The Sunday Times, said,
“This water sport is spectacular, not only to practice but also to watch. However, it requires proper training and guidance.”
Sara also mentioned that with this event, she expected more participation from the Sri Lankan surfers.
Nevertheless, Kalpitiya was more than a wind-scoured sandbar with a fort. It is also home to a distinct fishing culture. And yes, you will see many dolphins, probably the calmest in Kalpitiya.
Here is what I did during my three days in Kalpitiya. This stretch of the northwest coast deserves more than a footnote in a Sri Lanka itinerary.
Kalpitiya Took Me By Surprise From The Moment The Journey Started
Kalpitiya is around 165 to 170 kilometers north of Colombo. A drive takes around three and a half hours.
It is a peninsula in the Puttalam District and is located around 50 kilometers north of Puttalam Town.
Furthermore, squeezed between the Puttalam Lagoon and the open Indian Ocean, Kalpitiya is a place famous for wind, kites, and dolphins.
However, the journey from Colombo to Kalpitiya was no less “interesting.”
Past Puttalam, the road narrowed, and the land on either side turned into salt pans, catching the light in long silver-white sheets.
My driver this time was Nimal, and he slowed down so I could photograph a row of old windmills turning lazily near the salterns.
Every detail on the way felt more like rural Netherlands than tropical Sri Lanka.
Nimal said,
"This whole peninsula used to belong to traders.”
Then, he pointed toward the lagoon side and said, "Arabs, then the Portuguese, then the Dutch. Everyone wanted this exact strip of sand."
The Places To Visit In Kalpitiya
What Nimal said made more sense to me when I reached Kalpitiya Fort, the main historical attraction in Kalpitiya.
It was a fort that guarded a Cinnamon route. Here are more details about the fort.
Kalpitiya Fort: Embodying The Portuguese And Dutch History
The Portuguese had laid the foundations of the Kalpitiya Fort earlier, and the Dutch built the fort on it between 1667 and 1676.
It sits on the narrow point where the Puttalam Lagoon meets the sea.
The walls of the fort are around four meters in height, and these are made of coral and limestone quarried from the surrounding coast.
Also, the single entrance to the fort faces the lagoon. Furthermore, the belfry and the pediment topping the entrance make it look like a church.
However, this resemblance is not an accident.
The local accounts say that the Dutch built the entrance in that style to placate the Kandyan king who had granted them the land.
It was at a time when the fort's real purpose was military and commercial rather than religious.
A Guard To The Puttalam Lagoon
The Kalpitiya Fort guarded the entrance to Puttalam Lagoon.
The Dutch used the lagoon as a corridor to move cinnamon, areca nuts, and pearls toward Colombo. They had even dug a canal through Negombo for the purpose.
However, today, the fort functions as the navy base of Sri Lanka. If you want to visit this fort, you will have to carry your original passport as it is still an active military site.
A young naval officer volunteered to show me around, and as I walked the bastions, the fort looked out over the lagoon on one side and the ocean on the other.
The two bodies of water were separated by a strip of land I could have walked across in under ten minutes.
Kudawa Beach: The Line Between Two Seas
From the fort, I took a short ride to Kudawa Beach.
It is the main stretch of sand in Kalpitiya, and here a narrow sandbar visibly divides the turquoise ocean from the murkier, nutrient-rich lagoon.
I arrived at the beach close to sunset, and without exaggerating a bit, it was the single sundowner spot I found anywhere on this Sri Lanka trip.
There were no large resorts crowding the shorelines. However, there are around 30 kitesurfing schools around the coastlines and lagoons.
Also, there are small eco-resorts, and a handful of fishing huts with nets strung out to dry.
At the beach, a fisherman mending his net nearby told me, half in English and half through gestures, that the wind here "never really stops between May and October."
I had to agree with him, as even if I stood still, my shirt kept snapping against my back.
What Are The Things To Do In Kalpitiya?
I had a wonderful time chasing the dolphins and trying to learn kitesurfing. Here is more about the best things to do in Kalpitiya.
1. Chasing Dolphins Before Sunrise
Dolphin watching is the best experience to have in Kalpitiya.
Our boat left from the lagoon, and it charged LKR 4000 per head.
It was just after sunrise. So, the sea was at its calmest.
The boat headed out toward the Bar Reef area, where we spotted the spinner dolphins. I tried to keep a count, and it was close to sixty.
Our guide told me that spinner dolphins are regular in this region between November and April. He mentioned spotting the "super-pods" of over a thousand dolphins during peak months.
The dolphins did not perform tricks for us, and they simply existed around the boat. They spun, leaped, and occasionally arrowed straight toward the hull before diving under at the last second.
Our boat operator mentioned that between December and April, this area also has sperm whales and sometimes migrating blue whales.
Each time a pod appeared, our boat operator cut the engine. Thus, the boat drifted rather than chasing them.
He said it was a “standard practice” among the more responsible operators working the Bar Reef, one of Sri Lanka's largest reef systems at roughly 307 square kilometers.
2. Learning To Kitesurf (I Failed At It)
Kalpitiya's lagoon side is shallow and flat almost by design, which is exactly why it has built its reputation as one of the best beginner-friendly kitesurfing spots in Asia.
However, I was not a natural.
My instructor, a wiry local guy named Dinesh who has been teaching on this lagoon for years, kept the lesson simple. "Control the kite first. The board comes later," he said, which is probably decent life advice too.
However, I barely made it. So, you must not trust the term “beginner-friendly” completely.
What Is The Best Season For Kitesurfing In Kalpitiya?
Kalpitiya has two kitesurfing seasons.
The southwest monsoon, from May to October, brings strong, consistent wind for most of the day. So, it is for professionals and veterans.
On the other hand, the northeast monsoon, from December to March, is gentler and generally considered the better window for first-timers.
I went in the second season. Still, I spent most of the first hour eating sand.
3. Exploring The Places Near Kalpitiya
Wilpattu National Park, the largest national park in Sri Lanka, is close to Kalpitiya. It is a drive of about 2 hours.
The Wilpattu National Park is also famous for having a dense population of leopards. If you want to stretch the trip a little, you can visit the national park and plan a day safari.
Moreover, the peninsula itself is scattered with fourteen small islands, some inhabited by fishing families, some given over entirely to mangroves and birdlife.
You can even explore these islands for a meaningful cultural experience.
How I Spent Three Days In Kalpitiya: The Itinerary
DaysTimeActivityDay 1MorningDrive from Colombo via Puttalam, Salt Pans and WindmillsAfternoonVisiting the Kalpitiya Dutch FortEveningSunset at Kudawa BeachDay 2Early Morning Dolphin Watching Boat Trip Near Bar ReefAfternoonRelaxing by the LagoonEveningTrying Fresh Seafood by the BeachDay 3Early MorningKitesurfing LessonLate MorningDay trip toward Wilpattu National ParkAfternoon Island-hopping by Boat, Mangroves and Birdlife
Kalpitiya: A Coastline That Is Still Deciding What It Wants To Be
Kalpitiya never tries to be Galle or Mirissa Beach. This is where it wins hearts.
With its patchy hot water, basic rooms, and winds, it is as unpolished as Nimal warned me to be.
But between a 350-year-old fort, a reef full of dolphins, and a lagoon that has quietly become one of the best kitesurfing classrooms in Asia, Kalpitiya gave me more range in three days than most single-purpose beach towns manage in a week.
If you are the kind of traveler who wants your itinerary to include a little bit of history, a little bit of wildlife, and a lot of wind in your hair, I would put this stretch of the northwest coast near the top of your list.
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