My Morning Among The Roses: My Experience At Haggala Botanical Garden

BY  Sibashree Jul 22, 2026

Mullaitivu left me quiet with the heavy history of the Sri Lankan Civil War.  And Kalpitiya was another surprise during my trip to Sri Lanka. Kalpitiya is a kitesurfing town. In fact, Kalpitiya has been an important spot to boost tourism in Sri Lanka for the last 15 years with its kitesurfing adventures.  Furthermore, in September 2025, Kalpitiya saw its longest kitesurfing adventure. It was “a nearly 200-kilometre journey from Anawasala point in Kalpitiya to Talaimannar.”  Surfers from Sri Lanka, Italy and Germany took part in this surfing adventure. Also, Sara Johanna Berg, while speaking to The Sunday Times, said,  “This water sport is spectacular, not only to practice but also to watch. However, it requires proper training and guidance.” Sara also mentioned that with this event, she expected more participation from the Sri Lankan surfers.  Nevertheless, Kalpitiya was more than a wind-scoured sandbar with a fort. It is also home to a distinct fishing culture. And yes, you will see many dolphins, probably the calmest in Kalpitiya.  Here is what I did during my three days in Kalpitiya. This stretch of the northwest coast deserves more than a footnote in a Sri Lanka itinerary. Kalpitiya Took Me By Surprise From The Moment The Journey Started Kalpitiya is around 165 to 170 kilometers north of Colombo. A drive takes around three and a half hours.  It is a peninsula in the Puttalam District and is located around 50 kilometers north of Puttalam Town.  Furthermore, squeezed between the Puttalam Lagoon and the open Indian Ocean, Kalpitiya is a place famous for wind, kites, and dolphins.  However, the journey from Colombo to Kalpitiya was no less “interesting.”  Past Puttalam, the road narrowed, and the land on either side turned into salt pans, catching the light in long silver-white sheets. My driver this time was Nimal, and he slowed down so I could photograph a row of old windmills turning lazily near the salterns. Every detail on the way felt more like rural Netherlands than tropical Sri Lanka. Nimal said,  "This whole peninsula used to belong to traders.” Then, he pointed toward the lagoon side and said, "Arabs, then the Portuguese, then the Dutch. Everyone wanted this exact strip of sand." The Places To Visit In Kalpitiya  What Nimal said made more sense to me when I reached Kalpitiya Fort, the main historical attraction in Kalpitiya.  It was a fort that guarded a Cinnamon route. Here are more details about the fort.  Kalpitiya Fort: Embodying The Portuguese And Dutch History The Portuguese had laid the foundations of the Kalpitiya Fort earlier, and the Dutch built the fort on it between 1667 and 1676.  It sits on the narrow point where the Puttalam Lagoon meets the sea.  The walls of the fort are around four meters in height, and these are made of coral and limestone quarried from the surrounding coast. Also, the single entrance to the fort faces the lagoon. Furthermore, the belfry and the pediment topping the entrance make it look like a church.   However, this resemblance is not an accident. The local accounts say that the Dutch built the entrance in that style to placate the Kandyan king who had granted them the land. It was at a time when the fort's real purpose was military and commercial rather than religious.  A Guard To The Puttalam Lagoon The Kalpitiya Fort guarded the entrance to Puttalam Lagoon. The Dutch used the lagoon as a corridor to move cinnamon, areca nuts, and pearls toward Colombo. They had even dug a canal through Negombo for the purpose. However, today, the fort functions as the navy base of Sri Lanka. If you want to visit this fort, you will have to carry your original passport as it is still an active military site.  A young naval officer volunteered to show me around. Also, as I walked the bastions, the fort looked out over the lagoon on one side and the ocean on the other. The two bodies of water were separated by a strip of land I could have walked across in under ten minutes. Kudawa Beach: The Line Between Two Seas From the fort, I took a short ride to Kudawa Beach.  It is the main stretch of sand in Kalpitiya, and here a narrow sandbar visibly divides the turquoise ocean from the murkier, nutrient-rich lagoon.  I arrived at the beach close to sunset. Without exaggerating a bit, it was the single sundowner spot I found anywhere on this Sri Lanka trip.  There were no large resorts crowding the shorelines. However, there are around 30 kitesurfing schools around the coastlines and lagoons.  Also, there are small eco-resorts, and a handful of fishing huts with nets strung out to dry.  At the beach, a fisherman mending his net nearby told me, half in English and half through gestures, that the wind here "never really stops between May and October."  I had to agree with him, as even if I stood still, my shirt kept snapping against my back.  What Are The Things To Do In Kalpitiya?  I had a wonderful time chasing the dolphins and trying to learn kitesurfing. Here is more about the best things to do in Kalpitiya.  1. Chasing Dolphins Before Sunrise Dolphin watching is the best experience to have in Kalpitiya.  Our boat left from the lagoon, and it charged LKR 4000 per head.  It was just after sunrise. So, the sea was at its calmest. The boat headed out toward the Bar Reef area, where we spotted the spinner dolphins. I tried to keep a count, and it was close to sixty.  Our guide told me that spinner dolphins are regular in this region between November and April. He mentioned spotting the "super-pods" of over a thousand dolphins during peak months.  The dolphins did not perform tricks for us, and they simply existed around the boat. They spun, leaped, and occasionally arrowed straight toward the hull before diving under at the last second. Our boat operator mentioned that between December and April, this area also has sperm whales and sometimes migrating blue whales.  Each time a pod appeared, our boat operator cut the engine. Thus, the boat drifted rather than chasing them.  He said it was a “standard practice” among the more responsible operators working the Bar Reef. It is one of Sri Lanka's largest reef systems at roughly 307 square kilometers. 2. Learning To Kitesurf (I Failed At It) Kalpitiya's lagoon side is shallow and flat almost by design. That is exactly why it has built its reputation as one of the best beginner-friendly kitesurfing spots in Asia.  However, I was not a natural.  My instructor, a wiry local guy named Dinesh who has been teaching on this lagoon for years, kept the lesson simple. "Control the kite first. The board comes later," he said, which is probably decent life advice too. However, I barely made it. So, you must not trust the term “beginner-friendly” completely.  What Is The Best Season For Kitesurfing In Kalpitiya?  Kalpitiya has two kitesurfing seasons.  The southwest monsoon, from May to October, brings strong, consistent wind for most of the day. So, it is for professionals and veterans.  On the other hand, the northeast monsoon, from December to March, is gentler and generally considered the better window for first-timers. I went in the second season. Still, I spent most of the first hour eating sand.  3. Exploring The Places Near Kalpitiya  Wilpattu National Park, the largest national park in Sri Lanka, is close to Kalpitiya. It is a drive of about 2 hours.  The Wilpattu National Park is also famous for having a dense population of leopards. If you want to stretch the trip a little, you can visit the national park and plan a day safari.  Moreover, the peninsula itself is scattered with fourteen small islands. Some inhabited by fishing families, some given over entirely to mangroves and birdlife! You can even explore these islands for a meaningful cultural experience. How I Spent Three Days In Kalpitiya: The Itinerary  DaysTimeActivityDay 1MorningDrive from Colombo via Puttalam, Salt Pans and WindmillsAfternoonVisiting the Kalpitiya Dutch FortEveningSunset at Kudawa BeachDay 2Early Morning Dolphin Watching Boat Trip Near Bar ReefAfternoonRelaxing by the LagoonEveningTrying Fresh Seafood by the BeachDay 3Early MorningKitesurfing LessonLate MorningDay trip toward Wilpattu National ParkAfternoon Island-hopping by Boat, Mangroves and Birdlife Kalpitiya: A Coastline That Is Still Deciding What It Wants To Be  Kalpitiya never tries to be Galle or Mirissa Beach. This is where it wins hearts.  With its patchy hot water, basic rooms, and winds, it is as unpolished as Nimal warned me it would be.  It was between a 350-year-old fort, a reef full of dolphins, and a lagoon that has quietly become one of the best kitesurfing classrooms in Asia! Overall, Kalpitiya gave me more range in three days than most single-purpose beach towns manage in a week. Are you the kind of traveler who wants your itinerary to include a little bit of history, a little bit of wildlife, and a lot of wind in your hair? I would put this stretch of the northwest coast near the top of your list.

BY  Sibashree Aug 29, 2026

I almost missed St. Clair’s Falls during my first interaction with it.  I was content and still in the vibe of the winding drive through the tea country, and I was half-asleep while on the Hatton–Talawakele Road.   Fortunately, my driver slowed down and pointed left.   Suddenly, a wide curtain of white water spilling out of the hills between two tea estates was in front of my eyes.   It was so close to the road that I did not even have to get out of the car for the first look.   Of course, I got out of the car a few minutes later and got close to the widest waterfall in the country.   St. Clair’s Falls: Quick Facts   Detail Information Height •About 80 Meters (260 ft) for the Main Fall (Maha Ella). •The Lower Fall (Kuda Ella) is About 50 Meters.  Width  3 km west of Talawakele, Nuwara Eliya District, Central Province River Kotmale Oya, a Tributary of the Mahaweli River Entry Fee Free, Viewable from the roadside Opening Hours •Open 24 hours.•Daylight hours are Best for Visibility. Nickname The "Little Niagara of Sri Lanka" Location 3 KM West of Talawakele, Nuwara Eliya District, Central Province  What Makes St. Clair's Falls Worth The Stop St. Clair's is actually two falls in one.   The upper, larger cascade is called Maha Ella ("the Greater Fall") in Sinhala.  Just below it, feeding almost directly into the same pool, is Kuda Ella ("the Lesser Fall").   The water spreads out over three rocky outcrops before dropping. That is why it has the broad, curtain-like shape rather than a single narrow jet.  Also, this is why it earned the Little Niagara nickname, even if the comparison is more about drama than actual scale.  What struck me most was not the height, but it was the setting.   Tea bushes run right up to the edge of the gorge on both sides.  Depending on the time of day, the whole valley can be wrapped in a thin layer of mist that makes the falls look like they are pouring out of the clouds.   There is a small lookout point just off the road, and if you're willing to walk a little further along a trail through the St. Clair estate.  You can get closer for a better angle, though the main pool below is difficult to reach and swimming is not advisable.  Nearby Attraction: Devon Falls And The Rest Of Talawakele St. Clair's isn't a solo attraction.  Devon Falls is only a few kilometres east along the same road, and the two are almost always visited together.   There are also several tea factories in the area, including estates that offer factory tours and tastings. You can pair them naturally with a waterfall stop since you are already surrounded by the source of Ceylon tea.  A One-Day Itinerary: St. Clair's, Devon, And Talawakele If you only have a single day to explore this stretch of the hill country, here's how I would structure it, starting from Nuwara Eliya.  Time Stops Notes 8:00 AM Depart Nuwara Eliya Head out early to beat both traffic and the midday mist.  9:00 AM St. Clair's Falls Roadside viewpoint plus a short walk to a closer vantage point.  10:15 AM Tea factory visit Several estates near Talawakele offer short tours and tastings.  11:30 AM Devon Falls A few kilometres east, view from the roadside platform  12:30 PM Lunch in Talawakele Small local eateries serve rice and curry along the main road  2:00 PM Return to Nuwara Eliya Or continue on toward Hatton if heading to Adam's Peak   Where St. Clair's Falls Is And How To Get There St. Clair's Falls sits in the Nuwara Eliya District. It is about 3 kilometres west of the town of Talawakele, right along the Hatton–Talawakele road (the A7).   It is formed by the Kotmale Oya, a tributary of the Mahaweli River. Also, it takes its name from the St. Clair Tea Estate that the river runs through.  From Nuwara Eliya  If you are based in Nuwara Eliya, the falls are around 25–30 kilometres away. So, it is roughly 45 minutes to an hour by car or tuk-tuk along the A7 towards Hatton.   This is the easiest approach if you're already exploring the hill country.  From Kandy Or Colombo  Coming from Kandy, the route runs through Gampola and Nawalapitiya before joining the Hatton road.  It is a journey of about 2 to 2.5 hours depending on traffic.   From Colombo, it is closer to 4–4.5 hours via Avissawella and Hatton. So most visitors combine it with an overnight stop in Nuwara Eliya or Hatton rather than a day trip.  By Train  This is my favourite way in.   The upcountry railway line to Badulla passes close to the falls near Talawakele.  The ride itself, through tea bushes rolling past the window, mist drifting through the valleys. It is worth the trip on its own. From Talawakele station, a short tuk-tuk ride gets you to the viewpoint.  Best Time To Visit St. Clair's Falls Season Months What to Expect Wet season May – September Highest water volume, most dramatic flow, but heavier mist and rain  Dry season December – March Clearer skies and better visibility, though the flow is gentler  Shoulder months April, October–November Mixed conditions. So, it is worth checking recent weather before you go.   I went in early February and had a clear, sunny view of both tiers with almost no one else around. If your priority is photos rather than sheer water volume, the dry season is the better bet.  Practical Tips To Visit St. Clair's Falls  Wear closed shoes if you plan to walk any of the estate trails — the paths can be muddy, especially after rain.  There is no dedicated parking lot, so cars typically pull over along the roadside.  A small museum near the viewpoint has some background on the falls and the tea estate if you want context before or after.  Bring a light jacket. The elevation here sits close to 1,200 m, so it's noticeably cooler than the coast even at midday.  Driving away from St. Clair's, I kept twisting around in my seat for one more look.  It is not the tallest waterfall in Sri Lanka, and it is not hidden away at the end of a long trek. However, that accessibility is exactly what makes it worth building a hill-country day around.

BY  Sibashree Mar 23, 2026

Hiriketiya Beach is a place that can disrupt your travel plans completely.  You may arrive with plans for a two-night stay and end up spending 3 weeks. Develop a routine of mornings spent surfing, drinking coconut coffee, and watching the sun set over the jungle.  This tucked-away cove on Sri Lanka’s southern coast is nicknamed by its community of surfers and digital nomads as "Hiri." It is a textbook example of tropical aesthetics.  The cove is well-formed. It has water surrounded by palm trees, and a jungle. The jungle is so dense behind it that you will hear monkeys scurrying through the treetops of your surfboard as they find their way there.  Hiri feels like a secret to be shared, but is just being revealed to people in the surrounding towns of Weligama and Mirissa.  Hiriketiya has developed to become a more sophisticated version of Weligama and Mirissa. The "vibe" of Hiriketiya is not just another phrase used by hipsters. It is the currency used by locals. Here is more about this beautiful coastal gem in Sri Lanka.  The Evolution Of Hiriketiya Beach: Why You Need To Go Now Hiriketiya has experienced an incredible transformation over the last few years.  Only a few years ago, this sleepy little fishing village had only a few guesthouses and one small roti shop. It is quite similar to the beaches in Jaffna in that way.  Now, it's become a vibrant hub, even though it has lost some of its "untouched" charm. Moreover, this infusion of new energy has produced world-class specialty coffee shops, beautiful state-of-the-art Yoga studios, and a co-working scene. But despite these rapid changes, the spirit of this village remains.  The Surf At Hirikeya Beach: A Wave For Every Soul The horseshoe shape and the unique geography of Hirikeya Beach make it ideal for every type of surfer.  Here is a quick breakdown. Surf LocationDetails The Beach Break (Right Side)- Beginner-Friendly- Sandy Bottom- Gentle WavesThe Middle- Ideal for Longboarders- Offers a Mellow RideThe Point Break (Left Side)- Ideal for Professionals- Shallow Reef Board rentals are standardized at 1000 LKR per hour.  If Hirikeya Beach is very busy, you can go 3.5 km east and find Kudawella Beach.  Where Is Hirikeya Beach? How To Reach It?  Hiriketiya is located off the main highway along the coast, about one mile away from the town of Dickwella.  Since Hiriketiya is not on a major transit route, you will have to use Dickwella as your transit point. 1. Traveling To Hiriketiya Beach From Colombo The best way to get there is by taking the train from Colombo Fort to Matara, which takes approximately four hours.  From Matara, you can take a local bus to Dickwella or take a tuk-tuk taxi. You can also take a highway express bus from Colombo to Matara and arrive in about three hours. 2. Traveling To Hiriketiya Beach From Ella You can catch the #31 bus at the intersection of the Ella-Passara Road as you travel through tea country.  It is approximately four hours to the coast on a winding road. Just tell the conductor you want to go to Dickwella. 3. Traveling To Hiriketiya Beach From Arugam Bay If you are traveling from the East Coast surf to the surf in the South, there is a direct bus leaving from Pottuvil every day around 6:30 AM. It arrives at Dickwella approximately six hours later. What Are The Things To Do At Hirikeya Beach? (Beyond Surfing) Hiri has just as much gravitational force to attract chill seekers. So, here are the things to do beyond surfing.  1. Walk To Blue Beach Island If you're looking for a little adventure, try the 2.5km (1.5-mile) walk to Nilwella.  You'll be walking through peaceful local neighborhoods when you find a beautiful natural sandbar that links the mainland with a small island.  Moreover, walking over a sandbar with breaking waves on both sides of you is something you will remember long after leaving Hiri.  Also, it is the best place to watch the sunset. 2. Sip In Style At Smoke And Bitters Believe it or not, one of the 50 Best Bars in Asia is hidden deep in a coconut grove.  Furthermore, the menu at Smoke and Bitters is based on the smokehouse method of cooking. It uses local Sri Lankan ingredients with cooking methods from around the globe.  Moreover, you must try the smoked harissa pumpkin and the pork ribs, as they are WOW!!  Every cocktail created at Smoke and Bitters is a work of art. The price of a drink here, compared to what you would expect to pay in Sri Lanka, may seem high. However, when you want to treat yourself, there is no better place to go. 3. Become A Culinary Master With Rosie Rosie's cooking class experience is the ultimate rite of passage in Hiri.  While she prepares the dishes during your cooking class, you will also hear many personal stories of her life. She will also share how she made some special Sri Lankan spice combinations. Moreover, it costs 6000 LKR, and the 4-hour feast is the ultimate attraction.  The Digital Nomad And Yoga Scene At Hirikeya Beach  Hiriketiya has become a cornerstone of the "work-from-anywhere" lifestyle.  Places like Dots Bay House and Salty Pelican provide the infrastructure (and the caffeine) needed to hit deadlines. Moreover, when it comes to physical and mental well-being, Arise is unparalleled.  So, they provide a variety of classes to choose from, including Muay Thai, ecstatic dance, and Reiki, as well as many types of Vinyasa yoga.  Additionally, their Salt House location offers stunning rooftop yoga classes where you can do yoga while listening to the waves below. Where To Stay In Hiriketiya? Hiriketiya offers a versatile range of accommodation. Here are some places you can try.  1. Salt House  This upscale beach hotel has a boutique feel.  Located 5 minutes away from the beach, the hotel has spacious, minimalistic rooms opening directly to its central pool and open-air cafe.  Moreover, on-site yoga classes every day attract those interested in wellness. Room rates begin at about 21000 LKD per night. 2. Dots Bay House  Located next to the surfing area, 'Dots', the centre of Hiri's social scene, offers accommodation options ranging from dormitories to high-end private rooms.  Moreover, facilities include an on-site co-working space, swimming pool, and popular bar which features the best live music acts in town. Prices start at approximately 7000 LKD per night. 3. Hiriketiya White House  A charming, family-owned guesthouse hidden away in the jungle, offering an excellent option for visitors who want authentic experiences at affordable prices.  Also, the double rooms come with beautiful contemporary bathrooms and balconies where guests can enjoy watching monkeys play overhead. Moreover, the prices start from about 5500 LKD per night.  When To Visit Hiriketiya Beach? Due to offshore winds and consistent swell during the "High Season", November to April is the best time for surfers to be out on the ocean.  Moreover, December to February is the busiest time of year, with hot and dry weather as well as a lot of activity happening around town.  However, there are two downsides. The first is that accommodation prices rise significantly, and the second is that line-ups at the ocean can be extremely crowded. Where To Eat In Hiriketiya? As an enthusiast of TheLowDownUnder Travel and genuine experiences, I felt compelled to sample the local cuisine at Hiriketiya. So, here are a few recommendations for places to check out. 1. Lemon Grass Café Considered the benchmark for rice and curry in Sri Lanka, this family-run establishment is modest yet impactful.  Moreover, for 1000 LKR, you’ll enjoy a generous array of at least four different vegetable curries, rice, and dessert, with unlimited refills. 2. Kingsley’s Kitchen Another gem in the area, Kingsley is a well-known figure in the village who serves outstanding home-cooked meals.  Dinner operates on a pre-order basis, so be sure to stop by during the day to reserve your meal.  Moreover, it’s one of the most budget-friendly spots in the bay, with a vegetarian curry priced at 750 LKR. 3. Dahami Situated at the Dickwella intersection, this is where the locals dine. Furthermore, it’s a straightforward buffet offering a mountain of rice and curry for just 450 LKR. Moreover, for those seeking specialty cafés and a beach atmosphere, options like Duni’s Hoppers Café, MOND Café, and La Playa are worth considering.